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kifoa


Sep 20, 2010, 7:12 AM
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My tr soloing question
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I want to climb peaks in my local area such as the picture1 and picture2. the crags on the mountain are about 200~300ft high and have crack.Now I go for collecting usefull knowledge and work on top rope climb training in several wild crag.
The question 1,who can tell the book name and the author in the<Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hill> Appendix :Extended Reading?I have a non-english version without the appendix .The question 2,I also want get <the self-coached cilmber><climbing anchors>,they'll arrive later,any other good book recommend?
I have no partner some time so have to tr soloing.I draw a picture3 showing my idea.
1.self belay anchor
I have two 20ft 16mm tubular webing.unluck in a chance there only one small stone can use(,ohers are big and 20ft not enough for suround.IN picture 4.i only set two webing on one small stone seprated by clove hutch.The question 3, can i use the rope make anchor replace webing and connect two webing one surround the big stone for redundancy?i also draw picture 5. I know the rope is heavy compared to webing and shorting the lenghth can be used in climbing, and any other shortcomings such as the rope is not anti-abrasion?you know some time webing not enough,you won't like waste a day no climbing then coming back.
2.self belay
when go down the slope,I have a reverso3 connerct the rappel ring of the harness first ,and a clove hitch tie on a pear lock connect the harness.i find the clove hitch need adjust several steps.the question 4,I want to use reverso3 first and prusik second,just like rappel.,i tie prsusik by beal 6mm cord,it seemed some hard,and i test it will not lock some time,my test have problem?Do the prusik not lock every time?any comments?
3.top rope anchor setup
There have hanger already.I tie the knots and clip the locker beafore hand.when i arrive the edge i clip the locker to the hanger,it looks easy. question 5.the setup is ok?i know in-line figure 8 and it seemed when the anchor lost efficacy the rope will extended,any comments?
4.one line or two line
I find two rope in silence partner manual and some otherplace,Question 6,if i sure there no sharp edge,one line is OK?i hike about 2 hours to the crag and i take care of the weight.
5. tr soloing knots
I want climb useing clove hitch or figure eight every 10ft clip in.I have 2 big pear locker in my waist loop,i clip right,left,right.left...when ge on the top i self belay on the anchor and retie the knots,then rappel,another climbing.i think clove hitch is easy tie by one hand when climbing,and retie easy also,a clove hitch have 2 rope clip in the locker,when the line is very long,the locker will have no enough space.Question 7,i use figure eightevery 10 ft and tie clove hitch when fall possible ,i think it also work well in down-climbing ,any comments?
I heard 2 mini-traxion good work,do it work well,Question 8,do it work well in down-climbing too?
I also have a grigri,but i search the forum it don't work well.


(This post was edited by kifoa on Sep 20, 2010, 7:21 AM)


viciado


Sep 20, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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You have asked a lot of questions.

You will do well to:

1) Read your book that you say you have. It gives decent information about what you have asked... and wait patiently for the SCC.

2) John Long's book on anchors will probably give you better info than any responses you will get to your post on this site.

3) You really need to invest in finding someone knowlegeable to climb with.

4) I am not positive from your post, but you probably need more equipment than you already have to set a good anchor. A single piece of webbing on a small rock does not sound like enough for an anchor. See #2 above.

5) You're gonna die. But you knew that.


Kartessa


Sep 20, 2010, 1:41 PM
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Re: [viciado] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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viciado wrote:
5) You're gonna die. But you knew that.

+1

Find some friends and leave the soloing to the pros


MS1


Sep 20, 2010, 4:15 PM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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kifoa wrote:
I want to climb peaks in my local area such as the picture1 and picture2. the crags on the mountain are about 200~300ft high and have crack.Now I go for collecting usefull knowledge and work on top rope climb training in several wild crag.
The question 1,who can tell the book name and the author in the<Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hill> Appendix :Extended Reading?I have a non-english version without the appendix .The question 2,I also want get <the self-coached cilmber><climbing anchors>,they'll arrive later,any other good book recommend?
I have no partner some time so have to tr soloing.I draw a picture3 showing my idea.
1.self belay anchor
I have two 20ft 16mm tubular webing.unluck in a chance there only one small stone can use(,ohers are big and 20ft not enough for suround.IN picture 4.i only set two webing on one small stone seprated by clove hutch.The question 3, can i use the rope make anchor replace webing and connect two webing one surround the big stone for redundancy?i also draw picture 5. I know the rope is heavy compared to webing and shorting the lenghth can be used in climbing, and any other shortcomings such as the rope is not anti-abrasion?you know some time webing not enough,you won't like waste a day no climbing then coming back.
2.self belay
when go down the slope,I have a reverso3 connerct the rappel ring of the harness first ,and a clove hitch tie on a pear lock connect the harness.i find the clove hitch need adjust several steps.the question 4,I want to use reverso3 first and prusik second,just like rappel.,i tie prsusik by beal 6mm cord,it seemed some hard,and i test it will not lock some time,my test have problem?Do the prusik not lock every time?any comments?
3.top rope anchor setup
There have hanger already.I tie the knots and clip the locker beafore hand.when i arrive the edge i clip the locker to the hanger,it looks easy. question 5.the setup is ok?i know in-line figure 8 and it seemed when the anchor lost efficacy the rope will extended,any comments?
4.one line or two line
I find two rope in silence partner manual and some otherplace,Question 6,if i sure there no sharp edge,one line is OK?i hike about 2 hours to the crag and i take care of the weight.
5. tr soloing knots
I want climb useing clove hitch or figure eight every 10ft clip in.I have 2 big pear locker in my waist loop,i clip right,left,right.left...when ge on the top i self belay on the anchor and retie the knots,then rappel,another climbing.i think clove hitch is easy tie by one hand when climbing,and retie easy also,a clove hitch have 2 rope clip in the locker,when the line is very long,the locker will have no enough space.Question 7,i use figure eightevery 10 ft and tie clove hitch when fall possible ,i think it also work well in down-climbing ,any comments?
I heard 2 mini-traxion good work,do it work well,Question 8,do it work well in down-climbing too?
I also have a grigri,but i search the forum it don't work well.

I'm not reading that.

But I will tell you this: Asking a bunch of strangers on the internet to teach you how to deal with solo rope systems is a good indication that you should not be messing around with this stuff. By the time you have built a base of competence that would enable you to safely try this, you won't have to ask what books to read.

Go find an experienced partner and learn what that person can teach you.


zeke_sf


Sep 20, 2010, 4:38 PM
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Re: [MS1] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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TR soloing isn't that hard. I suggest the OP look up existing threads and try to answer those questions him/herself. You're going to be out there by yourself, best you start relying on your own judgment. Just think through everything you do. Many routine things will become a little more complicated without a belay partner.


MS1


Sep 20, 2010, 4:50 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
TR soloing isn't that hard. I suggest the OP look up existing threads and try to answer those questions him/herself. You're going to be out there by yourself, best you start relying on your own judgment. Just think through everything you do. Many routine things will become a little more complicated without a belay partner.

I agree it isn't that hard, if you have built a basic amount of competencies dealing with climbing rope systems. Skimming the OP shows that he isn't ready to mess with this stuff; for example, he read threads about the mini-trax system and then asked if it worked well for downclimbing! Either this is a troll or it's somebody about to get in way over their head. Just in case it was the latter, I thought a warning was appropriate.


zeke_sf


Sep 20, 2010, 5:03 PM
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Re: [MS1] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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MS1 wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TR soloing isn't that hard. I suggest the OP look up existing threads and try to answer those questions him/herself. You're going to be out there by yourself, best you start relying on your own judgment. Just think through everything you do. Many routine things will become a little more complicated without a belay partner.

I agree it isn't that hard, if you have built a basic amount of competencies dealing with climbing rope systems. Skimming the OP shows that he isn't ready to mess with this stuff; for example, he read threads about the mini-trax system and then asked if it worked well for downclimbing! Either this is a troll or it's somebody about to get in way over their head. Just in case it was the latter, I thought a warning was appropriate.

Fair enough. I'd just add the caveat to test this stuff out close to the ground first.


kifoa


Sep 21, 2010, 2:10 AM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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Thanks for all kindly replies.and sorry for the picture later.fogive me for the por drawing.


(This post was edited by kifoa on Sep 21, 2010, 2:18 AM)
Attachments: P1.jpg (145 KB)
  P2.jpg (148 KB)
  P3.jpg (125 KB)
  P4.JPG (104 KB)
  P5.jpg (126 KB)


Dagda


Sep 21, 2010, 3:35 AM
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Re: [zeke_sf] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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how about we go take a class from someone who really is a an instructor, instead of thinking you know how to do something cuz you read a book or talked to some people online. I think that's how people get dropped and dogs die


bill413


Sep 21, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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kifoa wrote:
Thanks for all kindly replies.and sorry for the picture later.fogive me for the por drawing.

P4:


How much does that rock weigh? How much do you weigh? How much force do you think your system will exert on it?


MS1


Sep 21, 2010, 12:32 PM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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kifoa wrote:
Thanks for all kindly replies.and sorry for the picture later.fogive me for the por drawing.



Wow. Just wow.


Kartessa


Sep 21, 2010, 1:43 PM
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Re: [bill413] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
kifoa wrote:
Thanks for all kindly replies.and sorry for the picture later.fogive me for the por drawing.

P4:
[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5250;[/image]

Hrm.... yer gunna die.

Seriously... Find a partner.


oldrnotboldr


Sep 21, 2010, 1:43 PM
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Re: [kifoa] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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 Follow others' advice and TAKE SOME CLASSES FROM A QUALIFIED INSTRUCTOR. Based on your photos and descriptions, you are going to end up in a world of trouble seriously injured or worse. Your system does not look safe (that rocks' size?), or redundant. Do yourself a favor and find a knowledgable partner and take a lesson.
One last thing, looking at what you plan to climb, that's not the best place for a beginner--alone. How do you plan to get up to the bolts you show in your drawing? Is there a path, or easy scramble route?

(This post was edited by oldrnotboldr on Sep 21, 2010, 1:53 PM)


darkgift06


Sep 21, 2010, 9:40 PM
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Re: [oldrnotboldr] My tr soloing question [In reply to]
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I suggest you buy a drill & start by making a proper bolted belay at the top for top roping.


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