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cuteclimber3


Dec 21, 2002, 1:27 AM
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I just started climbing like 6 months ago and my arms from my wrists to my wlbows always hurt for like 2 days after any suggestions on how to make it stop???? oh yeah I climb at summit in grapevine anyone climb there?


Partner coldclimb


Dec 21, 2002, 1:41 AM
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Gotta love that feeling... that means your muscles are getting stronger... unless it's some other type of pain. The only way to stop it is to make your arms so strong that you can't make them tired anymore.


cuteclimber3


Dec 21, 2002, 1:49 AM
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I know I jsut wish it didn't hurt I mean it feels awesome when I'm climbing I just get so sore I can't wait till I Get really good I havn't been doing this for veryt long so I still kinda suck but it's all good I love it


Partner coldclimb


Dec 21, 2002, 1:57 AM
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heh, I can't help ya, cause I love that feeling. When I have that pain, I know I'm doing something right.


jtme


Dec 21, 2002, 2:28 AM
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..........although this isn't a way to strengthen your forearms. A good technique is to NOT use a "death grip" on every hold. Use just enough power on every hold to hang on thereby saving your strength for durability as well as when you DO need the death grip!!! And remember to use those legs!!!

Richard


climbingjunky


Dec 21, 2002, 2:31 AM
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Yeah I've been climing for about 6 months too. You just have to know when to stop and not overdue it. try climbing every other day until your strength builds up. It's all in the fingers and forearms. Good technique is very important, try not to rush a climb, i like to do mine as graceful as possible. It's all about fluidity. Make sure u also warm up well before you do any hard routes.

Have a nice xmas everyone!

[ This Message was edited by: indy on 2002-12-20 18:36 ]


apollodorus


Dec 21, 2002, 2:46 AM
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Most climbing involves lots of reps, so training that way (lower weight, more reps) helps alot. The lower impact of less weight is also less likely to irritate tendons, ligaments and other connective tissues that are slow to develop.

Really hard crimpers and steep finger cracks are very tough on your finger joints, so try to avoid those type of climbs at first. Hand and fist cracks and moderate face climbs are easier on your body than superhard boulder problems and the like. Hand and fist cracks also allow your feet a better purchase, which further reduces the load on your hands and arms. Moderate face climbs generally have better footholds, too.

And don't forget: poor technique can be overcome by brute strength, but developing good technique is the Better Way.


astrocrag


Dec 21, 2002, 3:14 AM
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 Sounds to me like you are using muscles that aren't accustomed to climbing yet. Do you climb more than once a week? Might be a good idea to go to a climbing gym two days during the week. (Tues. and Thurs.) Or start doing forearm excersizes with light weights. Forearm curls, reverse forearm curls and forearm pronation and supination. Start with a weight that you can do fifteen times at one rep. It should be hard to get the last one. Do three sets of ten. Do this at least two days a week. Give yourself two days rest before you climb. Maybe that will help.


climbinganne


Dec 21, 2002, 3:24 AM
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it helps to pull and release on an object close...but not too close...


practice, practice, practice..



or is it location, location, location


Partner matt


Dec 21, 2002, 2:31 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Technique & Training forum by pushtheextreme[/small]


mypeace


Dec 21, 2002, 2:45 PM
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After you get done climbing be sure to try to stretch them out. The best way that I have found is just to lean against a wall with palms flat and arms slightly below parallel and lean into it. Should stretch out your forearms. Hope it helps.

Well I guess that won't help you get stronger but should help with the soreness and so you can climb more often, which will make you stronger.

[ This Message was edited by: mypeace on 2002-12-21 07:42 ]


Partner one900johnnyk


Dec 21, 2002, 5:50 PM
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free weights, smartypants!


cuteclimber3


Dec 21, 2002, 5:59 PM
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yeah it's pretty much when I can get there the closest gym is about 2 1/2 hours away and right now I'm taking a winter term so I don't have a lot of free time but once spring starts up I'll climb twice a week probobly-right now I've just been working out with weights and stuff you guys are awesome! thanks so much for all the info it's a big help!


jt512


Dec 21, 2002, 9:54 PM
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Quote:
Most climbing involves lots of reps, so training that way (lower weight, more reps) helps alot. The lower impact of less weight is also less likely to irritate tendons, ligaments and other connective tissues that are slow to develop.


I think this is backwards. First of all, a beginner shouldn't strength train. He should concentrate on building technique by climbing. Secondly, low-weight, high-rep training is more likely to lead to overuse injuries than high-weight, low-rep training. Third, route climbing does not involve "lots of reps." Most routes involve a long series of different 1-rep moves, so high-rep weight training won't translate well to climbing. However, high-weight, low-rep weight training (ie, maximum strength training) will carry over to climbing because some of those 1-rep moves are going to be hard moves. But, again, beginners shouldn't weight train. They should climb.

Now, for the original posters problem, he doesn't give us enough info. for us to help him. What he is describing could either be due to over- or under-training. We can't tell based on the limited info. he has provided.

-Jay

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-21 14:03 ]


redpoint73


Dec 21, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Your arms will get stronger in time. 6 months is really not that long to be climbing. Free weights really won't help, compared to just getting on the rock or the climbing gym. The only free weight exercise that will efficiently make you stronger for climbing is finger curls. Your time is better spent at the gym or crag.

Try to climb 2-3 times a week. Coldclimb is right, the soreness is your body telling you that you are getting stronger. Try to work strength/power - hard moves, routes at/above your comfort level. This will increase BOTH your power and your endurance. Your stamina will increase in no time. Let your body heal after climbing workouts. Climbing when you are still sore from a previous workout is not efficient. If you really max out, 2-3 days for your muscles to recover is average. To speed up muscle recovery, eat right and drink enough water every day. Also, good general cardio health will increase circulation and therefore muscle recovery. So running, biking, etc. will actually help.



xanx


Dec 21, 2002, 11:45 PM
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i dunno if it is just my way of climbing (over gripping) or the fact that i am just a wimp, but my fingers nearly always get too raw for me to keep going before my arms get tired. the exception is when i top rope inside (i boulder almost exclusively and have been campusing a lot recently b/c my shoes are out).

mike


cuteclimber3


Dec 25, 2002, 4:21 PM
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well-about the running circulation thing- I can't do a whole lot of that b/c then I loose weight and I can't afford to do that seeing as I barely weigh 100lbs as it is now. so I also lift weights to gain weight I know it's probobly better if you are lite when climbing but I HAVE to gain weight so that's my main reason for lifting- I'd like to climb 3 times a week but I live about 2 hrs away from a gym and until I get a dependable car it's just when I can go right now ya know? I got all my climbing stuff for christmas and a finger board thing to work out at home with so maybe that will help MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!


crack_head


Dec 25, 2002, 5:59 PM
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pull-ups...lots of 'em


talons05


Dec 25, 2002, 6:59 PM
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Become good friends with that new trainingboard of yours...

A.W.


trebclimber


Jan 4, 2003, 6:50 AM
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I love that post-climb soreness!


goingtohellquick


Jan 4, 2003, 8:03 PM
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Do you know what wrist curls are? Those are the best for your forearms. You can do them both ways (palm up or palm down). Running helps the arms to. If you have a road bike and ride alot like me that is a main part of my work out wether its at home on the trainer or on the road. The key to build your arms on the bike is the tilt your saddle down, so that you have to support more of your weight with your arms. Build up your riding time doing this. It works quite well.


lexmark


Jan 5, 2003, 4:58 AM
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To reiterate what an earlier post alluded to, eat right. I used to be sore for two days after a workout. I looked at my diet an realized I wasn't getting enough protein to rebuild my muscles quickly. I would suggest protein shakes before or after a workout. Now, I get sore the next day, but never longer than that. Your muscles simply can't recover quickly if they don't have amino acids.

If you want to go overboard, eat Salmon (omega 3 fatty acids), raisins (supposed to reduce free radicals), almonds and a plethora of other foods that provide essential fats. And stay hydrated.


djmeat


Jan 5, 2003, 5:47 AM
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steroids my boy steroids.


xanx


Jan 5, 2003, 6:20 AM
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DO NOT JUST DO STRAIGHT PULLUPS!!
this is extensively discussed in an earlier forum and the main points:
1) won't have the most direct carry-over to climbing (especially bouldering - who cares if u can do 50 pullups in a row? u will never need to pull up more than ur body weight (and rack if u trad i guess, but after 6 months i assume u dont)
2) hangboards are easy to hurt urself on - lots of pullups is a great way to tear apart your elbow and shoulder.
3) what i have found to be VERY VERY helpful is 3 part pullups - hang for either 1 or 5 seconds, pull up half way and lock off for 1 or 5 seconds, pull up and lock off all the way for 1 or 5 seconds, back halfway down for 1 or 5 sec. and finally hang straight for 1 or 5 sec. and repeat - i can do about 8 or 9 1 sec. ones in a row, and about 3 of the 5 sec. ones. this works on your contact strength (u are on the board longer), endurance (more pullups) and lock off (very important for static and controled moves).

anyway i also hear and agree that low rep high weight is the way to go - adds less unncecesary bulk and has better carry-over to climbing for more power. i think the exceptions would be maybe aid and crack climbing - both of these seem to involve a lot of similar movements so low weight training would be appropriate (would someone please correct me if i am wrong?).

otherwise just suck it up and climb more.

mike

P.S. my hangboard routine, one cycle is one set of either 1 or 5 sec pullups on either slopers, crimps, or 3 finger pockets, short rest, 25 pushups, 25 situps, rest, repeat on a different hold, and repeat until i have done both 1 sec and 5 sec pullups on each of the 3 holds. totals per "cycle" (all holds used): 150 pushups, 150 situps, 24 1 sec. pullups, 8 5 sec pullups. i am trying to do 2 cycles every other day or so. first time i did it i literally felt sick but today i was campusing and just locked off and casually reached out to the finish, thinking "hmm, that was easy..."


canrocker


Jan 5, 2003, 6:30 AM
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Just wanted to add 2 cents to the topic... Work out one day, then rest the next. This allows time for the muscle to heal and build up stronger. Another option for the resting day is to do just a bit of light exercize to pump some extra blood to the muscles and rebuild them quicker. This method is tried, tested, and true. Good luck!
-CR

[ This Message was edited by: canrocker on 2003-01-04 22:31 ]

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