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Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes
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billcoe_


Nov 12, 2010, 4:18 AM
Post #26 of 32 (944 views)
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [dartbyno] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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dartbyno wrote:
I have a 10mm rope for top roping, but for sport routes i would like something smaller and lighter. Any suggestions?

I just got back form Red Rocks. DO NOT buy the Petzl 9.4. We hd one and it was both amazingly stiff for a relatively new rope, and would kink crazy bad. Adam and Ujahn took it up Epinephirne one day and said that they spent @ 25 min unkinking it....the kinks were @ 20 feet of the end, and the thing got stuck on some flakes. We wound up taking a 70 meter 10.2 Beal as it was soft and ran better through pro. It was much heavier, but a stiff cable effectively becomes more weight as it won't run freely through biners.

As said above, New England and Blue water (9.4 Dominator) both make real sweet skinny ropes.


dan2see


Nov 12, 2010, 5:24 AM
Post #27 of 32 (934 views)
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [dartbyno] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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Always buy the rope with the coolest color.


justroberto


Nov 12, 2010, 3:52 PM
Post #28 of 32 (899 views)
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [billcoe_] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
dartbyno wrote:
I have a 10mm rope for top roping, but for sport routes i would like something smaller and lighter. Any suggestions?

I just got back form Red Rocks. DO NOT buy the Petzl 9.4. We hd one and it was both amazingly stiff for a relatively new rope, and would kink crazy bad. Adam and Ujahn took it up Epinephirne one day and said that they spent @ 25 min unkinking it....the kinks were @ 20 feet of the end, and the thing got stuck on some flakes. We wound up taking a 70 meter 10.2 Beal as it was soft and ran better through pro. It was much heavier, but a stiff cable effectively becomes more weight as it won't run freely through biners.
I had the same problem with the Petzl Nomad. I hated it...

...until I got about 20-25 days of climbing on it. Once it mellowed out, it was pretty sweet. I still wouldn't buy another one, but I don't feel like I completely wasted $200 any longer.


adam14113


Nov 12, 2010, 5:04 PM
Post #29 of 32 (885 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2007
Posts: 57

Re: [justroberto] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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I am surprised no one mentioned this little baby ...
8.9 Serenity by Mammut for when I am sporting in my onsight range ... don't recommend it for dogging up a route or Disneylanding your rope-gunned

http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/201001320_v_4120_60_89_0/8.9+Serenity.html;jsessionid=32901DB898637B46858C46175626DCD5


justroberto


Nov 12, 2010, 5:38 PM
Post #30 of 32 (873 views)
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [adam14113] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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Flossy!

I have shoelaces thicker than that.


xaniel2000


Nov 15, 2010, 9:43 PM
Post #31 of 32 (820 views)
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Registered: Oct 8, 2007
Posts: 99

Re: [dan2see] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
Always buy the rope with the coolest color.

haha, this +1


bill413


Nov 17, 2010, 4:30 AM
Post #32 of 32 (783 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [xaniel2000] Best Lightweight Rope for Sport Routes [In reply to]
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xaniel2000 wrote:
dan2see wrote:
Always buy the rope with the coolest color.

haha, this +1

You laugh!

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