|
jcd82
Oct 28, 2010, 10:14 PM
Post #27 of 35
(1474 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 20, 2010
Posts: 29
|
Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
|
|
|
|
|
cruxstacean
Oct 28, 2010, 11:01 PM
Post #28 of 35
(1453 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2010
Posts: 174
|
jcd82 wrote: Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
hahah its true
|
|
|
|
|
chilli
Oct 29, 2010, 12:27 AM
Post #29 of 35
(1430 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
|
jcd82 wrote: Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
on one hand, you're right; everyone seems to feel like it's ok to be an ass online.
on the other hand, you've got to understand that there are people who get a kick out of trolling and it makes those who've been around for a while a bit skeptical of any suspicious question. hang around for a while and you'll see.
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbSoHigh
Oct 29, 2010, 5:38 PM
Post #30 of 35
(1372 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 208
|
I have heard people grade belaying skill with the yosemitee scale and have done so myself in joking. A really solid belayer that always gives nice soft catches, never short ropes, great technique, can use any belay device including a munter, is solid with singe and double ropes, can escape their belay and rig a haul system, we call a "5.12 belayer". I never heard a criteria for what makes you each level, since it is subjective. If one friend is a better belayer than you can say this guy is clearly a 5.8 belayer while your a 5.10 belayer. Just a thought on why the OP might have been asked if he was a 5.11 belayer. (the guy was asking if the OP was a proficient belayer). But I agree, when I first saw the post I thought it was most likely a troll, which is way fun to do on a rainy day.
There are lots of nich terms used by groups of climbers. Me and my friends use silly terms we made up for our own entertainment all the time. For climbing commands I have a friend that we use...
On belay?
Belay is on.
Party on Wayne?
Party on Garth.
I would love to overhear someone else doing that at a crag someday!
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Oct 29, 2010, 8:30 PM
Post #32 of 35
(1331 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
Just reading between the lines a bit but I believe what you were being asked was can you catch my fat ass when I fall and it's quite likely I will. As to multiple pitches in the gym, haven't climbed in one in over 10 years but I guess some might have the system as to teach people the mechanics of multipitch climbing relating to setting up hanging belays, belay techniques, cleaning the anchor, etc. Belaying 5.1 to 5.15 the object is to keep the leader off the ground in the event of a fall. Other things come into the equation such as ground fall potential and what to do but that surely is learnt at the next level.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
dugl33
Nov 13, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #34 of 35
(1188 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
|
runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
You've sort of asked the climbing equivalent of "what is the best running shoe to use in a triathlon, since triathlons have long swims?"
Assuming your query is genuine, I'd suggest perusing the terminology section of the beginners forum, specifically with regards to the meaning of "pitches."
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
