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speffers
Nov 23, 2010, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2010
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Climbed there yesterday and broke the fixed carabiner on the 2 bolt of K-2. The carabiner was deaply worn and the nose broke off with moderate hand pressure. Unfortunately the anchor requires a wrench to replace the carabiner so I could not install a new carabiner. The other bolt is still good, and the broken bolt can be girth hitched.
(This post was edited by speffers on Nov 25, 2010, 1:10 AM)
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broken carabiner small.jpg
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brokesomeribs
Nov 24, 2010, 11:24 PM
Post #2 of 8
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speffers wrote: Climbed there yesterday and broke the fixed carabiner on the 2 bolt of K-2. The carabiner was deaply worn and the nose broke off with moderate hand pressure. Unfortunately the anchor requires a wrench to replace the carabiner so I could not install a new carabiner. The other bolt is still good, and the broken bolt can be girth hitched.
HOLY SHIT! Hand pressure?!?!
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speffers
Nov 24, 2010, 11:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2010
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Yeah. The basket was heavily worn so I opened the gate, pulled on the nose and it broke right off. The carabiner had about 1/8" of thickness left.
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majid_sabet
Nov 25, 2010, 1:04 AM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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you should at least change the title to K2 in los angeles. I thought you did this in real K2 but then you would not be here.
any photos from this broken biner in LA k2?
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majid_sabet
Nov 25, 2010, 6:44 AM
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milesenoell wrote: speffers wrote: Climbed there yesterday and broke the fixed carabiner on the 2 bolt of K-2. The carabiner was deaply worn and the nose broke off with moderate hand pressure. Unfortunately the anchor requires a wrench to replace the carabiner so I could not install a new carabiner. The other bolt is still good, and the broken bolt can be girth hitched. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5376;[/image] Hey, at least this one doesn't appear to have been sharp like some of the others. Seriously though, these ridiculously weakened pieces of fixed gear are no longer coming across as "the most worn piece I've ever seen!", and are now just a friendly reminder to watch out. That's kinda spooky.
please
do not even replace it. these sort of clip and go mentality kills people. this time you were lucky, next time someone will die because of another worn out biner.
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speffers
Nov 25, 2010, 7:14 AM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Nov 23, 2010
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Well, as it is it's not safe. The girth hitch is iffy, and when you clean and rap you can't use a girth hitch so you have to rap on the one bolt.
It should probably be replaced with a hanger & steel rap ring so you can rap on two bolts, or a steel quick clip if convenience is desired.
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mckbill
Nov 25, 2010, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2005
Posts: 97
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Weld_it (from supertac0) should be all over this.
Sounds like rad training for the real K2.
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