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cracklover
Jan 11, 2011, 7:17 PM
Post #26 of 42
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dugl33 wrote: cracklover wrote: The Grack as your first lead would be awesome! Yes lets make the noob train at the Grack as long as possible. Despite what some people seem to think the Grack does require some level of competence. Pre Supertopo 5 star flashing neon lights this was sort of a hidden gem where semi beginners could have an enjoyable climb. Learn how to lead trad somewhere else. Seriously. You'll have half a dozen parties mumbling "hurry the f-up!" under their collective breath as you fumble about. Yes the climbing is easy if you have even basic crack climbing and slab skills but depending on where you end up for your pitch 2 anchor building said anchor requires some skill to do safely. There are some one pitch beginner trad routes at swan slabs, first pitch of Jam Crack, Sunnyside Bench regular route, Knob Hill...
Yes, I'm sure there may be other places better suited - but remember - the guy isn't a total n00b. My first real lead was Thin Air on Cathedral. Probably comparable in terms of difficulty and technicality. And that went fine.
Anyway, my own fantasies for your first lead aside, your real best bet if you take my advice and hire a guide is to ask them for advice. They'll have a better understanding of your strengths and weaknesses after working with you for a day. And they'll know all the options very well too.
GO
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alpine_monk
Jan 11, 2011, 7:55 PM
Post #27 of 42
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There are also some sport routes in the lower falls area, again I think there all hard. I really don't understand the desire not to go climb well within your ability. If you know how to place gear go climb 5.2 at swan slab. if you don't know how to place gear be man enough to say "I'm going to Yosemite and dont know how to place gear" much more grace in that than a string of excuses. sure you will have people down climbing over your head @ swan but you will also be able to induldge in the scenery of girls in sport bras lounging around and talking about "some guy I just met in camp 4 that says he will take me up the nose". go rock climb!
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dswink
Jan 11, 2011, 9:14 PM
Post #28 of 42
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You did not ask for hiking recommendations, but two of the best moderate hikes in Yosemite are North Dome and Cloud Rest from Tuolumne Meadows. If you decide to go to Tuolumne (which is cooler than the Valley in the summer too), and you are looking for climbing easier than 5.10 then check out:
**Bunny Slopes for several bolted routes (5.6 - 5.8)
**Zee Tree on Pywiak Dome (last pitch requires gear - be sure to understand descent options without doing the last pitch)
**fun top roping from bolted anchors on Pothole Dome (5.4 - 5.9)
**several fun top ropes can be set up around Puppy Crack on Puppy Dome (5.5 - 5.9)
Be aware that Toulumne bolted routes tend to be shockingly run out compared to sport routes in many areas. You should consider starting with routes well within your comfort zone.
Another option is to pick up the Supertopo Bouldering guide for the Valley. There is endless bouldering available, much of it with a very rich history.
(This post was edited by dswink on Jan 11, 2011, 9:17 PM)
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billcoe_
Jan 11, 2011, 9:24 PM
Post #29 of 42
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robx wrote: I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.
Absolutely! Bring it, there is some pretty good bolted climbs. Bring your mosquito repellent as some of the best routes are inundated in the spring. You can leave it in your car when you go hiking.
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 10:35 PM
Post #30 of 42
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cracklover wrote: robx, have you said how hard you climb? A lot of people are saying 5.10, is this accurate? Leaving that aside for the moment - there are a good number of places you could toprope, and some pretty fun stuff. Of course they'll be crowded. I'll save the rest of my thoughts until I'm clear on how hard you climb. GO
5.10s seem pretty accurate.
I mean, clearly yosemite isn't a great place to learn how to climb, but I'm moderately competent, and I'm going there more for the trip than to climb. I was just asking for help finding a few things that might be fun to do while I'm there.
I'm surprised how aggressive some of the people are on here. Were you all born placing gear and 13d's?
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 10:40 PM
Post #31 of 42
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I really like the idea of taking a class while I'm there. does anyone have any specific groups they found useful, or should I just go to google?
I'm going to be there with (hypothetically), 2 climbers and 1 "kind of" climber. all three of the climbers climbing sport 10's at least, and the non being able to project a 10.
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cracklover
Jan 11, 2011, 11:09 PM
Post #32 of 42
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robx wrote: cracklover wrote: robx, have you said how hard you climb? A lot of people are saying 5.10, is this accurate? Leaving that aside for the moment - there are a good number of places you could toprope, and some pretty fun stuff. Of course they'll be crowded. I'll save the rest of my thoughts until I'm clear on how hard you climb. GO 5.10s seem pretty accurate. I mean, clearly yosemite isn't a great place to learn how to climb
I don't think so at all. I think Yosemite is a *great* place to learn how to climb. What it's not, is a great place to sport climb at 5.10 and under.
I had my first real experience with crack climbing there (based on my username, you can see how that worked out). Of all the places I've climbed (and in 13 years, that's a few places) I can think of nowhere better to learn to climb crack. The friendly texture of the rock, the bomber granite, the relatively low angle, the abundant pin scars, the semi-sustained nature of the cracks... all of these make it friendly and secure but demanding.
In reply to: I'm surprised how aggressive some of the people are on here. Were you all born placing gear and 13d's?
The only "aggressive" responses I noticed were people giving you a hard time for suggesting that the limiting factor on your trad climbing was your partners, which you later seemed to change around a bit.
GO
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sspssp
Jan 11, 2011, 11:25 PM
Post #34 of 42
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There is plenty of climbing you can do in Yosemite without gear leading and without leading more than 5.10 bolts. Ability to set up a natural anchor helps, but even if you can't, if you are only around for a couple of weeks, you won't run out of things to climb.
What time of year are you coming? The best hiking is up in the high elevations, which is usually accessible starting sometime in June, depending on the amount of winter snow.
The Tuolumne domes, in the high country, have a lot of routes that are only bolts. Many are reasonable for a 5.10 friction slab climber. And there are some knobby face climbs that are reasonable for a 5.10 climber.
Have fun.
Cloud's rest is a great view. However, most of the hike is through the forest, so I don't recommend it unless you are reasonably sure of going the whole way up to the ridge with the view.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Jan 11, 2011, 11:26 PM)
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 11:51 PM
Post #35 of 42
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Registered: Jan 11, 2011
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sspssp wrote: There is plenty of climbing you can do in Yosemite without gear leading and without leading more than 5.10 bolts. Ability to set up a natural anchor helps, but even if you can't, if you are only around for a couple of weeks, you won't run out of things to climb. What time of year are you coming? The best hiking is up in the high elevations, which is usually accessible starting sometime in June, depending on the amount of winter snow. The Tuolumne domes, in the high country, have a lot of routes that are only bolts. Many are reasonable for a 5.10 friction slab climber. And there are some knobby face climbs that are reasonable for a 5.10 climber. Have fun. Cloud's rest is a great view. However, most of the hike is through the forest, so I don't recommend it unless you are reasonably sure of going the whole way up to the ridge with the view.
thanks this is exactly the info I was looking for.
we'll be there in mid-late june. I finish class the second week in june and we have a two teacher workdays the following week, so sometime around the 14th of june we'll be leaving, and about a week later we'll come back.
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byran
Jan 12, 2011, 3:56 AM
Post #36 of 42
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The bolted climbs of Tuolumne are about as far away from sport climbing as you get. The low angle domes and abundance of knobs lends itself quite perfectly to a ground-up, stance-drilled ethic. And as far as I know, this is how the majority of 5.0-5.10 climbs were established, and continue to be established. The result is you find bolts near the cruxes, and no bolts on the easier sections. This isn't a bad thing, you just have to be aware that a bolted 5.10a climb is going to have scant protection if difficulty dips down into the 5.7 range for part of the pitch. It's definitely not sport climbing. If you're used to slab climbing, then have at it, but the sort of gymnastic climbing that is found at most sport crags doesn't translate to Tuolumne face climbing at all.
There is, as others have mentioned, tons of great hiking in the area though. Many of the best summits in the park can be ascended via 3rd class routes. I would probably just forgo the rope and stick to alpine scrambling. There might be some snow around the north faces of things, but most of the ground should be clear by late June.
And since it's your first time to Yosemite, and seeing the Valley is a "must", you should do the hike from Porcupine Flat Trailhead to North Dome. It's about 5 miles each way and mostly flat. You get one of the best views of the ditch, and you won't have to deal with any of the tourists or sweltering heat down on the Valley floor.
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robx
Jan 12, 2011, 4:18 AM
Post #37 of 42
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Registered: Jan 11, 2011
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It's not my first time to yosemite, it's my first time there with actual time to spend camping and climbing. I was there last year, but only for three days, and we were limited in our time by the fact that we found a place to swim and just sank in comfortably instead of exploring.
no regrets, it made me excited about coming back this year.
thanks for all the advise, I probably will try to find a guide book, and we're definitely going to buy a pad when we get to san fran, because I've heard the bouldering is great.
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guangzhou
Jan 12, 2011, 4:24 AM
Post #38 of 42
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Have fun in the valley. Bring your draws and a few feet of webbing and you can top-rope in the Swan Slab Area. (Near Camp 4.) Yes, it's crowded, but it's also convenient for top-roping cracks you don't seem comfortable leading.
Some good bouldering, but you can skip the crash pad and just bouder. You can keep plenty bysy without a pad for sure.
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jt512
Jan 12, 2011, 5:02 AM
Post #39 of 42
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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robx wrote: [C]learly yosemite isn't a great place to learn how to climb . . .
Now that's something you don't hear every day.
Jay
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Bowman_15
Jan 12, 2011, 5:41 AM
Post #40 of 42
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Registered: Apr 28, 2010
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I agree with taking a course with the Yosemite Mountaineering School. This is what I did when I went to Yosemite and had a great time climbing and learned a lot. This was my first time climbing outdoors actually. I got to experience some great rock climbing and even some multi-pitch climbing. I'd recommend them any day.
Have a great time in Yosemite. I'm sure you will enjoy it. I know that I did. Can't wait to go back there.
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jeepnphreak
Jan 12, 2011, 6:38 PM
Post #41 of 42
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
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thestatusquo wrote: "Sport climbing in the Valley is like masturbating in a brothel."
HA HA HA HA thats one of the best thing I have heard in a long time.
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shimanilami
Jan 12, 2011, 7:18 PM
Post #42 of 42
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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Sonora, ~ 1 hour outside the valley, has some of the best sport climbing on the west coast, ranging from 5.9 to 5.14+. It's single pitch, basalt, and not a place a non-climber would want to visit. But if it's sport climbing you're after, you'd be hard pressed to find better.
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