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uni_jim
Jan 13, 2011, 7:06 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
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rtwilli4 wrote: uni_jim wrote: Limestone, in my experience, almost never will give you a "perfect" parallel crack. You will have pods or edges that you can use to your advantage, turning your cam into a nut with an expansion range. Learn how to use these and the cam angle won't make a lick of difference. I have fallen on cams in limestone, and not one has pulled. You just gotta learn how to use em! But in that case wouldn't you just use hexes?  In my experience cams are OK but tricams nuts and hexes are better. But I've only climbed on limestone in Asia.
Hexes get used! On long limestone roues, I'll have a selection of hexes and tricams to compliment nuts and cams.
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davidbr
Jan 15, 2011, 11:23 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 191
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Camhead - that picture makes me want to weep. Where was it taken?
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phang_nga
Jan 16, 2011, 2:25 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Apr 2, 2006
Posts: 326
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rtwilli4 wrote: I'm no scientist but it would seem that more surface area would mean just that... more friction. Am I wrong?
Not necessarily the desired effect. Sometimes you want a point to dig into the rock. That's why tricams are so good in limestone. I use tricams primarily in the limestone in Thailand. I use nuts too, but seldom do I use cams.
Tricams don't usually move on me. I admit that I'm super careful when placing them.
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davidbr
Jan 19, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 191
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I know Potrero, but don't know the route. Was it put up recently? Where is it?
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davidbr
Jan 20, 2011, 7:33 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 191
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Yeah, yeah - I think i know the route now. Didn't recognise it. Thanks!
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guangzhou
Jan 21, 2011, 2:21 AM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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I must be doing something wrong, so many people claim that cams are faster then nuts and hexes.
In my experience, nuts and cams are both easy and quick, and hexes are 50/50 on how fast they get placed.
Practice placing nuts and hexes and they won't slow you done to much if the placement are not parallel.
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bearbreeder
Jan 21, 2011, 8:21 AM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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thats probably because most people rack nuts on single biner ...
if i rack my nuts and tricams each separately theyre about as fast as cams for me as well ... but i never do ...
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