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rnevius
Jan 23, 2011, 8:08 AM
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I've been bouldering indoors for the last 2 years. For background, I can consistently onsite V4 routes. Lately, I've been heading outdoors to get on some real rock, expecting to be able to climb similarly graded routes. Problem is, I can't even onsite a V1 outdoors and V2 is a project! It's not that i run out of strength, I just have trouble finding holds/staying on the wall. I'm starting to question the validity / softness of indoor ratings (the crimps on some of the V0's outside blow away most V4's I've done in the gym). So my questions are: Have you found indoor grades to be softer than outdoor grades? Or is it just that outdoor climbing is a completely different game altogether. Finding foot and hand holds outside is difficult in itself. If this is a normal noob thing, any tips for transitioning to outdoors? Thanks!
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gosharks
Jan 23, 2011, 9:03 AM
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rnevius wrote: I've been bouldering indoors for the last 2 years. For background, I can consistently onsite V4 routes. Lately, I've been heading outdoors to get on some real rock, expecting to be able to climb similarly graded routes. Problem is, I can't even onsite a V1 outdoors and V2 is a project! It's not that i run out of strength, I just have trouble finding holds/staying on the wall. I'm starting to question the validity / softness of indoor ratings (the crimps on some of the V0's outside blow away most V4's I've done in the gym). So my questions are: Have you found indoor grades to be softer than outdoor grades? Or is it just that outdoor climbing is a completely different game altogether. Finding foot and hand holds outside is difficult in itself. If this is a normal noob thing, any tips for transitioning to outdoors? Thanks!
(This post was edited by gosharks on Jan 23, 2011, 9:03 AM)
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bearbreeder
Jan 23, 2011, 9:31 AM
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outdoor climbing tends to be a different skillset at least squamish and the rockies (pocketed limetone being the exception)
crimps seem a tad smaller, more smearing, more slopers, way less jugs ... etc ...
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Greggle
Jan 23, 2011, 12:30 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: outdoor climbing tends to be a different skillset at least squamish and the rockies (pocketed limetone being the exception) crimps seem a tad smaller, more smearing, more slopers, way less jugs ... etc ...
True story.
Thank Buddha we have, at the very least, Squamish and the Rockies to confirm that.
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altelis
Jan 23, 2011, 4:15 PM
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rnevius wrote: I've been bouldering indoors for the last 2 years. For background, I can consistently onsite V4 routes. Lately, I've been heading outdoors to get on some real rock, expecting to be able to climb similarly graded routes. Problem is, I can't even onsite a V1 outdoors and V2 is a project! It's not that i run out of strength, I just have trouble finding holds/staying on the wall. I'm starting to question the validity / softness of indoor ratings (the crimps on some of the V0's outside blow away most V4's I've done in the gym). So my questions are: Have you found indoor grades to be softer than outdoor grades? Or is it just that outdoor climbing is a completely different game altogether. Finding foot and hand holds outside is difficult in itself. If this is a normal noob thing, any tips for transitioning to outdoors? Thanks!
That's actually not that uncommon. Are you using a guidebook for the outdoor area? My experience has been that most guidebooks have conversion factors in the back, buried in one of the appendixes.
There's a few appendixes that list climbs in different orders, like alphabetically by name, by grade, by stars, by name sub-grouped by cliff/boulder field, etc.
Well, usually back there somewhere there is an appendix that lists conversion factors for the area compared to the different gyms in the area. You know, something like "Generic Climbing Gym Name: 2.5". That means you multiply the outdoor grade by 2.5 and you'll get the comparable indoor grade. Often the conversion factor is greater than two, so this would correspond generally to what you've been finding.
Be careful though, there are some gyms where the conversion factor is less than 1. That can be an ego boost or ego destroyer depending which place (outside or gym) you climb more often.
If you don't have a guidebook, you can always just ask one of the gym employees next time. Just ask what their gym's conversion factor is, they'll know what you mean.
Lemme know if this didn't make sense and I'll try and do a better job explaining....
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jmeizis
Jan 23, 2011, 4:36 PM
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I've never been to a gym where the grades weren't softer than outside. It's a little bit of a downer to consistently climb V5/V6 in the gym and then have to work on V2/V3 outside but gym climbing requires less skill than outdoor climbing. The footholds indoors tend to be large. There's a lot of friction and the sequences are generally easier to figure out. I wouldn't say it's a completely different game but there is definately not a direct translation. If you want to get better at bouldering outside then the best way is to boulder more....outside.
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kachoong
Jan 23, 2011, 5:05 PM
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Gym bouldering will never replicate the complexity of outdoor bouldering. There is just way way more variety in movement, hold shape and overall appearance of the problem compared to, in a lot of cases, two or three flat surfaces joined together in the gym. The holds in a gym are obvious and, as mentioned, sequences will generally be easier to figure out than outside. If you've soley been climbing in the gym your body just won't have all the memory available to draw from to tackle problems on real boulders. As said, climb more outside and you'll see improvement, especially if you have a good strength base.
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j_ung
Jan 23, 2011, 7:06 PM
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I'm not saying there isn't some gym-related featherbagging to this, but to generalize that all gym grades are easier than outdoor grades is incorrect. Not that it didn't just happen to you. It might have. However, some (a lot?) of what you experienced is almost certainly due to the fact that you're completely unused to climbing on rock. The styles of climbing are many. Go try a 5.10a (sub-V0) hand crack and I think you'll see what I mean.
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mleogrande
Jan 23, 2011, 11:24 PM
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I route set in the bouldering area at my gym. I always stiffen the grades a bit and make technical climbs. When I go outside, I climb the exact same ratings I do inside.
If you can climb a legit V4 inside, then you should be able to do the same outside. If your struggling, try working on your route reading skills and climb as many different routes as possible. Don't repeat the same routes at your gym. Keep it fresh and challenging. I feel working on movement control is critical and will really help outside.
If you feel the routes at your gym aren't helping you prepare for outdoors, volunteer to set some of your own.
But hey, sometimes when you go outside, the style of the area your at, could be much different then what your use to.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 24, 2011, 5:14 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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rnevius wrote: I've been bouldering indoors for the last 2 years. For background, I can consistently onsite V4 routes. Lately, I've been heading outdoors to get on some real rock, expecting to be able to climb similarly graded routes. Problem is, I can't even onsite a V1 outdoors and V2 is a project! It's not that i run out of strength, I just have trouble finding holds/staying on the wall. I'm starting to question the validity / softness of indoor ratings (the crimps on some of the V0's outside blow away most V4's I've done in the gym). So my questions are: Have you found indoor grades to be softer than outdoor grades? Or is it just that outdoor climbing is a completely different game altogether. Finding foot and hand holds outside is difficult in itself. If this is a normal noob thing, any tips for transitioning to outdoors? Thanks!
It is entirely possible that boudering grades in the gym whenre you are used to climbing are softer than the grades outside in the area where you are climbing.
It isn't necessarily always the case, but it is beside the point, anyway.
Maybe the gym routes you are climbing have big juggy holds on overhanging wall, and the outdoor area has more vertical terrain with small crimps and precise footwork. Or maybe you just aren't used to finding proper sequence on the rock whe nthe holds aren't marked with tape. Or maybe it is the mental issue of having a small crashpad on uneven ground instead of the soft cushy mat under you.
Whatever it is, you will get better with practice. Go with people who are familiar with the area, if you can, ask then to make suggestions for beta on routes that you try, or maybe suggest routes to try that would play up to your strengths, make sure you have safe spotters, and try a variety of problems. Just because you got shut down on 3 V2s doesn't mean that the 4th V2 that you try won't work out well for you.
Good luck!
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