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philclark
Nov 15, 2001, 7:29 PM
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Ok, heres my problem i went out and bought the new petzel reverso and at the climbing gym we set it up so it was in a top belay mode and you know how it has the automatic locking feature when it is waited well there is no way to unlock it! and this could cause a problem in a situation if the climber is unconcious!we worked for 2 hours trying diffrent things but know of them worked! any ideas how you might be able to unlock it?
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paulc
Nov 15, 2001, 7:58 PM
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Phil (if that is your real name...)
I mentioned this in the topic about automatic belay devices. I think the only way to do it is to unweight the load line with a prussic or bachman or whatever you prefer. The problem with this is that you need to release all the weight from the reverso, so if your fallen climbing buddy weighs more than you and can't take any of his weight off the rope for you. For instance on a severerly overhanging climb then you may need to set up a pulley system to get the wieght off and unlock the reverso.
Personally I use a gri-gri, or a munter in this situation. The munter is cheap (being free) and is really and I mean really easy to tie off. You just add a mule know to the end and there you go fully tied off munter-mule already for you to escape the belay and affect a rescue.
Anyone else know a better way to unlock a reverso?
I'm going to check the other topic and will post back here if someone else answered this question there.
Paul
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paulc
Nov 15, 2001, 8:07 PM
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Wiggle says that there is a way to unlock the reverso but it seems to be a pain. Perhaps he will read this topic and let us know if his method is the same as the one I mentioned.
I think there might be another way, by putting another biner thru the reverso and taking a loop of static line up to the anchor point and then stepping/pulling down on that line to force the reverso to unlock.
Like I said I've seen them but never used one in this fashion, just for lead belaying/TRing from the ground.
Paul
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wigglestick
Nov 15, 2001, 8:13 PM
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All of your questions can be answered by looking at this site.
http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesreverso.htm
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paulc
Nov 15, 2001, 9:27 PM
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Good catch wiggle. so basically they use the method I kinda described second to unlock the reverso when it is in the lock mode.
Seems like a pain to me, munter seems easier. But hey whatever, if you want to have to build a block and tackle to unlock it them go crazy.
I should say perhaps that the only situation that I can think of that a reverso would be better than a munter or a gri-gri is when you are belaying two people up from above. But really you can use two munters if you want it is just kinda ugly.
Paul
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wigglestick
Nov 15, 2001, 10:43 PM
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Yea, what you described is the ticket. The reverso like any other development requires some comprimises and is not for everybody.
If you want to belay 2 seconds with the reverso though use skinny ropes. Especially if they are climbing fast. I tried it with 2 10.5mm ropes on the 3rd flatiron in Boulder (5.4) and could barely move my arms after a few pitches.
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2001-11-15 14:45 ]
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philclark
Nov 17, 2001, 4:35 AM
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Thanks all for your help!
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climb512
Nov 20, 2001, 8:06 PM
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we had this discussion when they first came out. we took a fall on it in the gunks and it jammed up on double 9mm's. not a good thing when on a top belay and your partner dangling 50 feet beneath you. they suck,they are a hazard. the 3 of use have sent them back to petzle about 2 weeks after they came out. we have yet to hear from them! we now will not buy anything with the petzle name on it.
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paulc
Nov 20, 2001, 10:19 PM
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512,
Just cause you don't like the reverso seems like a poor reason not to ever buy Petzl gear again. I'm sure I could pick your fav gear vendor to pieces if I tried. Every company has good ideas and bad ideas. There are good things about the reverso, like being able to lock off two climbers at once if you are guiding. This is easier than using two munter hitches and cheaper than two gri-gris.
If you don't like the reverso then don't use it, thats called a free market economy (even when the economy is in the shitter). Badmouthing them about all their products because you don't like one isn't very fair.
Besides for which Petzls website is very informative and they give alot of useful info away for free. They are a decent company.
Disclaimer: I don't work for any gear companies and Petzl isn't my fav gear company.
Paul
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climb512
Nov 28, 2001, 6:09 PM
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Hey paulc....can you read and comprehend at the same time. i did not bad mouth all of petzls gear ONLY the reverso! I am not happy with their customer service dealing with this product. I dont see anywhere in my post about anything else they make. I did state I will not purchase from them again. Like you said free market, why buy from someone who wont stand behind a product, when there are plenty of other gear makers out their who want my $. As to date, we still have not recieved any word from Petzl except to say they had recieved them and it was under advisement. This was in July! Would you buy gear from a company that acts that way? Not to bright if you do. You know the saying ...once bitten, twice shy..
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climb512
Nov 28, 2001, 6:12 PM
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Sonic, I'll give the Reverso that much it did rap smooth.
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paulc
Nov 28, 2001, 7:14 PM
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512,
Hey man no need to harsh my mellow. You said
"we now will not buy anything with the petzle name on it."
I assumed that when you said anything with the Petzl name on it you meant it. Now if that was beacuse you are unhappy with their cust service then, cool. Thats a good reason. but if it is because you don't like the reverso then I don't think that is a good reason.
If I misunderstood your post, which in retrospect I think I did, then I apologize, sorry mate.
Have a good one.
Paul
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climb512
Nov 29, 2001, 5:21 PM
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no sweat, just dont like to be mis-quoted. i have several things from petzl that are fine. i only stated i will not buy from them any more due to the reverso problem and the lack of support. nothing to do with the rest of their products. i know my little boycott wont mean anything but its my way saying %#!$ you.
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paulc
Dec 2, 2001, 10:16 PM
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Ok, the sling thing works, but only if you weigh more than your second. If they outweigh you by more than 30 lbs (at a guess) then you will not be able to unlock the reverso this way. (I think, like I said I've never used a reverso in the auto lock mode)
Paul
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whoistheman
Dec 12, 2001, 5:20 AM
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I have used the Reverso in self locking mode to bring up a second on a multi-pitch climb. The second fell onto the top-rope about 10 feet off the belay and wanted to be lowered back to the belay to try again. We were climbing easy low-angle slabs and I hooked my fingers into the non-anchor 'biner and pulled up and it levered the Reverso into non-locking mode, (the belay tie-off point was about waist level) and was able to lower him back down.
Undoubtably I was able to lower him because we were on low-angle slabs. This would most likely be impossible on a vertical to overhanging route although I have heard from some guides that rigging a haul on a long sling, to a 'biner up through the anchor (hauling with a 1:1 ratio) that you are able to hook a foot in and lever the Reverso into the non-lock position. Note that Petzl recommends keeping the brake hand on the rope at all times (of course) but don't forget, especially when trying to free a locked Reverso.
I have also tested the Reverso in the emergency ascender mode, it does work although I would want a additional prussik or other ascender. Note that I could not get the Reverso to allow me to descend (by trying to lever it) once I weighted it.
YMMV but I am keeping mine.
-Bob Shaftoe
[ This Message was edited by: whoistheman on 2001-12-12 21:16 ]
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