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p8ntballsk8r
Apr 20, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Any reason why 1 piece of webbing cannot be used on two separate anchors. The idea would be to use a nut or cam on each end, then equalize in the middle and tie and overhand knot. After that, set up a static rope for the 3rd anchor and that's all 3 of them. My question is mostly about using a single piece of webbing to build 2 out of the 3 necessary anchors
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jbro_135
Apr 20, 2011, 12:41 AM
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It's common practice to set up a three piece anchor with just one length of cord or webbing. WTF?
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 20, 2011, 1:04 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Any reason why 1 piece of webbing cannot be used on two separate anchors. The idea would be to use a nut or cam on each end, then equalize in the middle and tie and overhand knot. After that, set up a static rope for the 3rd anchor and that's all 3 of them. My question is mostly about using a single piece of webbing to build 2 out of the 3 necessary anchors If your webbing is long enough and/or your gear is close enough, you can use a single length of webbing or cord for an anchor. Webbing tied in a loop, clip into each piece, drop down webbing between pieces to equalize and tie a knot. Oh yeah, and go read a book. Josh
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curt
Apr 20, 2011, 1:30 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Any reason why 1 piece of webbing cannot be used on two separate anchors... No. Curt
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Jmus
Apr 24, 2011, 12:24 PM
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id think its ok as long as one anchor isnt pulling on the other anchor from the connecting peice of webbing
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gunkiemike
Apr 24, 2011, 1:34 PM
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Your question is unclear. You really need to distinguish between "anchors" as opposed to placements or pieces. I think you're describing pieces of gear as anchors. Most folks refer to 3 pieces of gear (and/or a tree), suitably equalized, as an anchor. ONE anchor. Using a single length of cord/rope/webbing to connect and equalize the pieces is pretty much the norm (web-o-lette, cordelette, quad etc.). If I'm NOT reading you correctly, and you really are trying to build two multi-piece, equalized anchors with one length of webbing... well, I hope you know your sh:t, because that's not going to be in any of the books you've likely read. It can be done (atomic clip-type knots and so forth), but it's NOT something you should be asking about on the internet.
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p8ntballsk8r
Apr 24, 2011, 5:48 PM
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3 pieces or tree's. Realized it was a stupid question after I asked it
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Jmus
Apr 24, 2011, 11:31 PM
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YA That changes everything if thats what you meant, i would make a loop with your webbing clip 2 pieces and make a sliding x thats what i like to do cuz it self equalizes and always is pullin on those pieces the same
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esander4
Apr 25, 2011, 6:33 PM
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Jmus wrote: YA That changes everything if thats what you meant, i would make a loop with your webbing clip 2 pieces and make a sliding x thats what i like to do cuz it self equalizes and always is pullin on those pieces the same Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot.
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darkgift06
Apr 25, 2011, 6:42 PM
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This should be under the Beginners forum.
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Jmus
Apr 26, 2011, 1:50 AM
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esander4 wrote: Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot. it all depends on what kind of climb your makin though i tend to set alof of top ropes that are gonna be used on more than one climb and used to climb alittle right or left of where they are set so i definatly like self equalizing systems i dont like the thought of not spreading the load out to all the pieces ya know
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esander4
Apr 26, 2011, 2:00 AM
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Jmus wrote: esander4 wrote: Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot. it all depends on what kind of climb your makin though i tend to set alof of top ropes that are gonna be used on more than one climb and used to climb alittle right or left of where they are set so i definatly like self equalizing systems i dont like the thought of not spreading the load out to all the pieces ya know Yes but if a piece of gear pulls or the rock crumbles, then then it will shock load the system. It's fine for top ropes with sturdy tree anchors, and most places with bolts anchors have enough to where you can easily move around. If you tie an overhand knot, you're still spreading the load out to all the pieces (not as well as in a sliding x, but it still does the job). And if you're worried about a climb being too far to the right or left, you can just untie the overhand and retie it to equalize the system. Not exactly that much of a hassle. I'd do a little bit of research if I were you on the benefits and problems of a sliding x
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jt512
Apr 26, 2011, 3:10 AM
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cracklover wrote: darkgift06 wrote: This should be under the Beginners forum. So that beginners can use their incomplete knowledge to try to answer an unclear question, resulting in a ten-car-pileup of n00bs answering with more and more confusion to themselves and the other posters? Still fighting the good fight, eh, Gabe? Jay
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jt512
Apr 26, 2011, 3:11 AM
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esander4 wrote: Jmus wrote: esander4 wrote: Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot. it all depends on what kind of climb your makin though i tend to set alof of top ropes that are gonna be used on more than one climb and used to climb alittle right or left of where they are set so i definatly like self equalizing systems i dont like the thought of not spreading the load out to all the pieces ya know If only he liked punctuation one-tenth as much as he likes self-equalizing systems. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 26, 2011, 3:22 AM)
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esander4
Apr 26, 2011, 3:20 AM
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I'm considering making that my new sig General rule of thumb: If you can't provide good grammar or basic elementary school spelling skills, you probably can't provide decent advice.
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Jmus
Apr 26, 2011, 3:55 AM
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i have learned and set anchors for facilitating groups of people who are going to be climbing all over and climbing back to the top of a climb for each participant that wants to climb somewhere different would be a lot of work. also by tying an over hand on either side can limit any shock loading if you were really worried about that but a slight drop from a piece slipping would not do much at all. i would also like to hope that i set pieces well enough that my top ropes dont have any risk or over stressing a piece to make it slip and if so i still have my anchor built to hold it it does
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Kartessa
Apr 26, 2011, 4:07 AM
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jt512 wrote: esander4 wrote: Jmus wrote: esander4 wrote: Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot. it all depends on what kind of climb your makin though i tend to set alof of top ropes that are gonna be used on more than one climb and used to climb alittle right or left of where they are set so i definatly like self equalizing systems i dont like the thought of not spreading the load out to all the pieces ya know If only he liked punctuation one-tenth as much as he likes self-equalizing systems. Jay I have so much dirt on my screen, I thought I saw a comma.
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notapplicable
Apr 26, 2011, 4:26 AM
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Kartessa wrote: jt512 wrote: esander4 wrote: Jmus wrote: esander4 wrote: Sliding X's can be useful in some places, but potentially hazardous in others. I usually reserve making a sliding x system for two large trees or two bolts. If I'm making a gear anchor I'll tie an overhand knot. it all depends on what kind of climb your makin though i tend to set alof of top ropes that are gonna be used on more than one climb and used to climb alittle right or left of where they are set so i definatly like self equalizing systems i dont like the thought of not spreading the load out to all the pieces ya know If only he liked punctuation one-tenth as much as he likes self-equalizing systems. Jay I have so much dirt on my screen, I thought I saw a comma. You sure that's not cracker crumbs? Because I just sprayed a bunch on my computer LOLing at that post.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Apr 26, 2011, 4:27 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 26, 2011, 12:32 PM
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cracklover wrote: darkgift06 wrote: This should be under the Beginners forum. So that beginners can use their incomplete knowledge to try to answer an unclear question, resulting in a ten-car-pileup of n00bs answering with more and more confusion to themselves and the other posters? Excellent idea! Let me go pop some popcorn. G Well, if he DID post in the Beginner's forum, then he would have at least acknowledged that he was a beginner which would have been a good start. Josh
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cracklover
Apr 26, 2011, 3:03 PM
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jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: darkgift06 wrote: This should be under the Beginners forum. So that beginners can use their incomplete knowledge to try to answer an unclear question, resulting in a ten-car-pileup of n00bs answering with more and more confusion to themselves and the other posters? Still fighting the good fight, eh, Gabe? Jay I just find it hilarious to watch what happens when someone makes an abortion of a post like the OP, and a bunch of noobs respond. Did you read the OP? It took me three tries reading through it before I figured out what he was asking. And once I figured it out I couldn't believe what an incredibly stupid question it was - can you attach a piece of webbing at two points and tie a knot in the middle? Good god, I got dumber just from reading it. I mean, assuming the noobs understand what he's trying to ask, what would they answer? Yes? No? How many people would even be able to figure out what question the answerer though he was answering? Depending on their misinterpretation of those faulty and marginally comprehensible answers, you'd get more hairbrained responses. The various permutations are almost unimaginably ridiculous. GO
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jt512
Apr 26, 2011, 3:13 PM
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: darkgift06 wrote: This should be under the Beginners forum. So that beginners can use their incomplete knowledge to try to answer an unclear question, resulting in a ten-car-pileup of n00bs answering with more and more confusion to themselves and the other posters? Still fighting the good fight, eh, Gabe? Jay I just find it hilarious to watch what happens when someone makes an abortion of a post like the OP, and a bunch of noobs respond. Did you read the OP? It took me three tries reading through it before I figured out what he was asking. And once I figured it out I couldn't believe what an incredibly stupid question it was - can you attach a piece of webbing at two points and tie a knot in the middle? Good god, I got dumber just from reading it. I mean, assuming the noobs understand what he's trying to ask, what would they answer? Yes? No? How many people would even be able to figure out what question the answerer though he was answering? Depending on their misinterpretation of those faulty and marginally comprehensible answers, you'd get more hairbrained responses. The various permutations are almost unimaginably ridiculous. GO My interpretation was that he was asking if he could use a sling cordellete-style to connect two pieces in an anchor, which implies he has done absolutely zero research on anchor building. Not my problem. Jay
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esander4
Apr 26, 2011, 8:19 PM
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Jmus wrote: i have learned and set anchors for facilitating groups of people who are going to be climbing all over and climbing back to the top of a climb for each participant that wants to climb somewhere different would be a lot of work. Oh well god forbid you should have to do extra work to maintain safety.
In reply to: also by tying an over hand on either side can limit any shock loading if you were really worried about that An overhand knot? I may have mistook what you said due to poor grammar but you shouldn't tie an overhand knot on the biners connected to the piece, you should clove hitch them.
In reply to: but a slight drop from a piece slipping would not do much at all Do you even know what shock loading is? If one piece ripped, there is a very, very good chance that the shock loading of the system would cause the other piece(s) to rip also. Your anchor could potentially come completely off due to one poor placement. And you can tell me all you want how great you think your placements are, but by reading your posts I highly doubt you have enough experience to judge the quality of a placement. You might think you do, but probably not.
In reply to: i would also like to hope that i set pieces well enough that my top ropes dont have any risk or over stressing a piece to make it slip and if so i still have my anchor built to hold it it does Again. Do research on shock loading. One ripped piece can cause the entire system to fail. So even though you think your anchor will hold, it probably won't unless you get really lucky. The thought of you setting up anchors for large groups scares me. You have lives in your hands, lives that are putting their complete trust in you, and you clearly don't know much about what you are doing.
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jt512
Apr 26, 2011, 8:49 PM
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esander4 wrote: Jmus wrote: i have learned and set anchors for facilitating groups of people who are going to be climbing all over and climbing back to the top of a climb for each participant that wants to climb somewhere different would be a lot of work. Oh well god forbid you should have to do extra work to maintain safety. In reply to: also by tying an over hand on either side can limit any shock loading if you were really worried about that An overhand knot? I may have mistook what you said due to poor grammar but you shouldn't tie an overhand knot on the biners connected to the piece, you should clove hitch them. In reply to: but a slight drop from a piece slipping would not do much at all Do you even know what shock loading is? If one piece ripped, there is a very, very good chance that the shock loading of the system would cause the other piece(s) to rip also. Your anchor could potentially come completely off due to one poor placement. And you can tell me all you want how great you think your placements are, but by reading your posts I highly doubt you have enough experience to judge the quality of a placement. You might think you do, but probably not. In reply to: i would also like to hope that i set pieces well enough that my top ropes dont have any risk or over stressing a piece to make it slip and if so i still have my anchor built to hold it it does Again. Do research on shock loading. One ripped piece can cause the entire system to fail. So even though you think your anchor will hold, it probably won't unless you get really lucky. The thought of you setting up anchors for large groups scares me. You have lives in your hands, lives that are putting their complete trust in you, and you clearly don't know much about what you are doing. This thread is gaining entropy nicely, even though it's not in the Beginners forum. Jay
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