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enigma
May 24, 2011, 8:41 AM
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Memorial Day-Labor Day 2011 -What are your climbing goals- places, walls,routes,trips,plans?
Its Prime Climbing Season all over U.S,Canada,Europe and International!
From May 31 through Sept what and where are you planning/hoping to climb?
(This post was edited by enigma on May 24, 2011, 8:47 AM)
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spikeddem
May 24, 2011, 9:27 AM
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enigma wrote: Memorial Day-Labor Day 2011 -What are your climbing goals- places, walls,routes,trips,plans? Its Prime Climbing Season all over U.S,Canada,Europe and International! From May 31 through Sept what and where are you planning/hoping to climb?
Well, IMO prime climbing time is still four months away (October), but I'd like to visit some sport climbing destinations. My mind is in a sport zone right now. I'll be moving nearer to the Red (~2 hours away), which will be very exciting. Maybe I'll go to Rumney or something before then. Maybe Spearfish Canyon. Maybe Wild Iris.
No specific routes really. I'd like to build up a lot more endurance. Lose about ten pounds. Perhaps redpoint a hard 12c or 12d before winter.
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spikeddem
May 24, 2011, 9:28 AM
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How about you?
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rtwilli4
May 24, 2011, 10:49 AM
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The Diamond and other stuff in RMNP, Wolfshead and other stuff in the Winds, The Grand and other stuff in the Tetons.
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lena_chita
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May 24, 2011, 12:24 PM
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enigma wrote: Memorial Day-Labor Day 2011 -What are your climbing goals- places, walls,routes,trips,plans? Its Prime Climbing Season all over U.S,Canada,Europe and International! From May 31 through Sept what and where are you planning/hoping to climb?
I thought the prime season ended in April, and the new one will start in October.
For the interim, the goal is to climb in the least muggy places with shade and breeze that I could find, and hope that climbing through the sweaty season will make me stronger when the humidity and temperatures drop.
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Vegasclimber10
May 24, 2011, 1:48 PM
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We have a split season here, due to the extreme heat in the summertime.
I will be spending most of the summer working on my endurance levels with a lot of hiking and road biking, and dialing in my aid systems for a wall attempt in the fall.
We have a tentative trip planned to the Meadows in mid July depending on the snow, and I will be climbing in Dresden the second week of August.
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superchuffer
May 24, 2011, 2:08 PM
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I want to buy more cams to lube up and then plunge deep into splitter cracks. I need more nuts to jingle off my harness. A few more big bros to shove sideways into Voo-style offsidth butt-cracks would be nice. I am upgrading to 2 daisy chains and a haul bag to carry to the base of one-pitch crags.
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ENARE
May 24, 2011, 2:49 PM
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Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers.
However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer.
(This post was edited by ENARE on May 24, 2011, 4:44 PM)
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tomcat_ct
May 24, 2011, 3:22 PM
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trying to get back in decent climbing shape after a long season of ski touring which ate up all the money for a gym membership.Maybe some longer trad routes in the fall when the weather gets more stable if I'get comfortable leading more exposed terrain again.
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swoopee
May 24, 2011, 4:19 PM
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Summertime is hell in the south. I will continue to climb as much as possible and wait for cooler weather. As for actual goals, I am trying to lose about 20 pounds in hopes that it will improve my climbing by fall.
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 5:14 PM
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spikeddem wrote: How about you?
My goals, climb in Taquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Smith and maybe Squamish.
I'm happy climbing whatever routes, unless I'm in the direct sun. I got burned to a crisp at Josh last weekend.
If I can financially, as well as time allows and work committments .
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:24 PM
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ENARE wrote: Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers. However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer.
So which sport crags do you climb in the summer in California?
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:26 PM
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lena_chita wrote: enigma wrote: Memorial Day-Labor Day 2011 -What are your climbing goals- places, walls,routes,trips,plans? Its Prime Climbing Season all over U.S,Canada,Europe and International! From May 31 through Sept what and where are you planning/hoping to climb? I thought the prime season ended in April, and the new one will start in October. For the interim, the goal is to climb in the least muggy places with shade and breeze that I could find, and hope that climbing through the sweaty season will make me stronger when the humidity and temperatures drop.
So what is the closest crag near Ohio?
(This post was edited by enigma on May 24, 2011, 6:28 PM)
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ENARE
May 24, 2011, 6:29 PM
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enigma wrote: ENARE wrote: Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers. However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer. So which sport crags do you climb in the summer in California?
I am in Santa Barbara so I climb a lot around here. Not everything is sport, but there are a fair amount of Sport routes here in town.
I am going to Echo Cliffs next month - Sport routes galore. It is 1 hour drive from my house and then a 45-hour hike in. There is also Kryptor, still have not gotten back to it yet but it is blue schist in an otherwise Sandstone dominated central coast:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/green-dome/105794464
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chadnsc
May 24, 2011, 6:29 PM
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Devils Tower, RRG, and the Needles. Various routes at each but in truth I just want to get my lead head and push things a bit.
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:32 PM
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spikeddem wrote: enigma wrote: Memorial Day-Labor Day 2011 -What are your climbing goals- places, walls,routes,trips,plans? Its Prime Climbing Season all over U.S,Canada,Europe and International! From May 31 through Sept what and where are you planning/hoping to climb? Well, IMO prime climbing time is still four months away (October), but I'd like to visit some sport climbing destinations. My mind is in a sport zone right now. I'll be moving nearer to the Red (~2 hours away), which will be very exciting. Maybe I'll go to Rumney or something before then. Maybe Spearfish Canyon. Maybe Wild Iris. No specific routes really. I'd like to build up a lot more endurance. Lose about ten pounds. Perhaps redpoint a hard 12c or 12d before winter.
Hope you will make another great trip report with photographs!
I've heard Wild Iris is special, why?
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:35 PM
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chadnsc wrote: Devils Tower, RRG, and the Needles. Various routes at each but in truth I just want to get my lead head and push things a bit.
Sounds like a plan. Take pictures ! Have a great time.
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:38 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: The Diamond and other stuff in RMNP, Wolfshead and other stuff in the Winds, The Grand and other stuff in the Tetons.
Any particular climbs on your tick list?
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:40 PM
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: We have a split season here, due to the extreme heat in the summertime. I will be spending most of the summer working on my endurance levels with a lot of hiking and road biking, and dialing in my aid systems for a wall attempt in the fall. We have a tentative trip planned to the Meadows in mid July depending on the snow, and I will be climbing in Dresden the second week of August.
So any specific climbs in Dresden? How is climbing there?
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fluffystuff
May 24, 2011, 6:41 PM
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For local stuff: aid Mordor wall and Prow on Cathedral; climb Vertigo on Cannon; climb the Dangler and aid Twilight Zone in the Gunks.
Maybe check out Lovers Leap, Bugaboos, and Zion. Maybe get back to Seneca, Tuolumne, Squamish and Yosemite. Big Wall anyone?
On a cool night in Atlanta, might run up Stone Mountain by moonlight.
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 6:45 PM
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ENARE wrote: enigma wrote: ENARE wrote: Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers. However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer. So which sport crags do you climb in the summer in California? I am in Santa Barbara so I climb a lot around here. Not everything is sport, but there are a fair amount of Sport routes here in town. I am going to Echo Cliffs next month - Sport routes galore. It is 1 hour drive from my house and then a 45-hour hike in. There is also Kryptor, still have not gotten back to it yet but it is blue schist in an otherwise Sandstone dominated central coast: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/green-dome/105794464
Echo Cliffs sounds great, not too far for me. I've climbed in Santa Barbara and Ventura a bit.
Do you like Gilbrator Rock?
I have the guide book for Santa Barbara ! Do you climb at Malibu Creek?
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potreroed
May 24, 2011, 6:51 PM
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I'll be real happy if I can get up a 5.11 at Devil's Lake this summer. Planning to go to the Gunks early September.
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Vegasclimber10
May 24, 2011, 7:05 PM
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enigma wrote: Vegasclimber10 wrote: We have a split season here, due to the extreme heat in the summertime. I will be spending most of the summer working on my endurance levels with a lot of hiking and road biking, and dialing in my aid systems for a wall attempt in the fall. We have a tentative trip planned to the Meadows in mid July depending on the snow, and I will be climbing in Dresden the second week of August. So any specific climbs in Dresden? How is climbing there?
There are over 10,000 established routes on both sides of the river between the German and the Czech side. I will be going on whatever climbs I think I can stuff knots into and not die. Which for me means very easy stuff.
From what I have seen of the area, I would say the climbing is outstanding if you can handle the local etchics and laws - i.e., no metallic pro and no chalk.
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ENARE
May 24, 2011, 8:29 PM
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enigma wrote: ENARE wrote: enigma wrote: ENARE wrote: Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers. However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer. So which sport crags do you climb in the summer in California? I am in Santa Barbara so I climb a lot around here. Not everything is sport, but there are a fair amount of Sport routes here in town. I am going to Echo Cliffs next month - Sport routes galore. It is 1 hour drive from my house and then a 45-hour hike in. There is also Kryptor, still have not gotten back to it yet but it is blue schist in an otherwise Sandstone dominated central coast: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/green-dome/105794464Echo Cliffs sounds great, not too far for me. I've climbed in Santa Barbara and Ventura a bit. Do you like Gilbrator Rock? I have the guide book for Santa Barbara ! Do you climb at Malibu Creek?
I have the guide book as well. I climbed in Malibu Creek only once a few years ago with Michael Reardon and a friend of mine. I did not get an exhaustive tour of the location unfortunately. But, with the canyon being the way it is, and the water right there, I can imagine that it stays pretty shady and cool during the day.
Gibraltar is a stones throw from where I live. It is a great spot and offers a lot more climbing than meets the eye. Last week my partner and I hiked back to the cold springs dome. Not my favorite hike by it had some very clean climbs with a sweet 5.11 crack that has two bolts for Top Roping.
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donald949
May 24, 2011, 11:17 PM
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ENARE wrote: enigma wrote: ENARE wrote: Summertime..... ugggg. If only the rocks came with an AC and bug zappers. However, that is not going to deter me one bit. My goal this summer is to comfortably be leading 5.10a (sport) and climbing at every location that is within 60 minutes of where I live. That is about 30 crags so I will have a busy summer. So which sport crags do you climb in the summer in California? I am in Santa Barbara so I climb a lot around here. Not everything is sport, but there are a fair amount of Sport routes here in town. I am going to Echo Cliffs next month - Sport routes galore. It is 1 hour drive from my house and then a 45-hour hike in. There is also Kryptor, still have not gotten back to it yet but it is blue schist in an otherwise Sandstone dominated central coast: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/green-dome/105794464
Me, got a trip to Holcomb lined up. Hope to talk some buds into heading up to Clark Canyon/Mammoth July, and hit up Dome Rock with my main partner for an extended weekend. Ah Dome Rock, a 10 minute down hill approach. much more to my tastes.
(This post was edited by donald949 on May 24, 2011, 11:17 PM)
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