Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Croft, Rands and the Hulk
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


Partner j_ung


Jun 15, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #1 of 25 (5704 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690

Croft, Rands and the Hulk
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just saw this vid, which I found on EVOLV's website. I think this is one of the most enjoyable climbing videos I've ever seen. Lisa's struggles and humility with a style of climbing and in an environment that are somewhat new to her are what drew me in, but damn, the climbing is spectacular, too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 15, 2011, 12:48 PM)


Partner devkrev


Jun 15, 2011, 1:26 PM
Post #2 of 25 (5679 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

It kind of reminds me of that part of King Lines when Chris Sharma climbed the Moonlight Buttress at Zion......



'cept he didn't really struggle.......at all.


That there Hulk is one fine piece of stone though I must say.

I can't wait for all the 5.8 trad climbers to chime in....


satch


Jun 15, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #3 of 25 (5679 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 94

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Great video. Thanks for posting.


altelis


Jun 15, 2011, 1:36 PM
Post #4 of 25 (5672 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I saw that a couple weeks ago, and watched it twice, back to back. And next break, I'm watching it again! Its really a rad video.

My real introduction to alpine/mountaineering was on a NOLS trip to the Waddington Range, when I was in high school. Our small group was going to climb Minaret Peaks. We made it over the 'schrund, up the long steep snow couloir. We just had a short rock pitch from the top of the couloir (which ended in a sheer 2000' drop on the other side), which would put us on the rock ridge to the summit. Half-way up the pitch, leading in her plastics, our instructor shout's out "5.6 my ass! Hosed by Croft again!". She put in a pin, lowered, and we retreated. That was the first time I ever heard his name, and I can't help but smile and remember that trip every time I hear his name.


Partner devkrev


Jun 15, 2011, 2:14 PM
Post #5 of 25 (5643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933

Re: [altelis] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

altelis wrote:
I saw that a couple weeks ago, and watched it twice, back to back. And next break, I'm watching it again! Its really a rad video.

My real introduction to alpine/mountaineering was on a NOLS trip to the Waddington Range, when I was in high school. Our small group was going to climb Minaret Peaks. We made it over the 'schrund, up the long steep snow couloir. We just had a short rock pitch from the top of the couloir (which ended in a sheer 2000' drop on the other side), which would put us on the rock ridge to the summit. Half-way up the pitch, leading in her plastics, our instructor shout's out "5.6 my ass! Hosed by Croft again!". She put in a pin, lowered, and we retreated. That was the first time I ever heard his name, and I can't help but smile and remember that trip every time I hear his name.



The best part about that comment is "Again!"

I wonder how many times that happened to her. Laugh


dev


milesenoell


Jun 15, 2011, 3:44 PM
Post #6 of 25 (5611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

I can't believe that cam held!


johnwesely


Jun 15, 2011, 4:02 PM
Post #7 of 25 (5595 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [milesenoell] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

milesenoell wrote:
I can't believe that cam held!

I can. It was a small fall on a big cam. They tend to hold in the wonkiest of placements.


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2011, 4:29 PM
Post #8 of 25 (5568 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes, that was an awesome vid. I was holding my breath watching her try to stuff that cam. great!


moose_droppings


Jun 15, 2011, 5:44 PM
Post #9 of 25 (5516 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Great find, thanks Jay.

Lisa Rands, "Holy shit!"

Peter Croft has got to be one of the most down to earth persons in the climbing world IMO.


Partner cracklover


Jun 15, 2011, 6:35 PM
Post #10 of 25 (5483 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO


potreroed


Jun 15, 2011, 7:37 PM
Post #11 of 25 (5442 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454

Re: [cracklover] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah, and it would also be good to have top climbers promoting the use of helmets, especially on long routes where anything can happen.


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2011, 7:55 PM
Post #12 of 25 (5431 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [cracklover] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO

heh. I forgot about that, but remember thinking the same thing.

If you are freeing .12+ in the backcountry at 13,000 feet, you are on the cutting edge.


swoopee


Jun 15, 2011, 7:57 PM
Post #13 of 25 (5426 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.


dagibbs


Jun 16, 2011, 6:09 AM
Post #14 of 25 (5358 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome! Thanks for linking that.


enigma


Jun 16, 2011, 7:21 AM
Post #15 of 25 (5340 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279

Re: [moose_droppings] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

moose_droppings wrote:
Great find, thanks Jay.

Lisa Rands, "Holy shit!"

Peter Croft has got to be one of the most down to earth persons in the climbing world IMO.


Crossroads Joshua tree- ( People in awe, do you know who that is?)
( Well no) It's Peter Croft !

So I walk up to him casually
Want to climb with me?
Sure. Where do you want to climb
I can climb only up to mid 10's
well, I know a great climb one of my favorites
Breakfast of Champions1
So myself and my current bf /partner go to the wonderland with Peter
Its kinda tough for a 10 c?
manage to hangdog up
He solos
Super sweet, Crush alert!

Gee (thinking how can we climb alone?
Oh well, nice guy, very down to earth! (think he's married with children) For now!


terr


Jun 16, 2011, 9:45 AM
Post #16 of 25 (5317 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 6

Re: [dagibbs] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It is so great,like it


donald949


Jun 17, 2011, 8:04 PM
Post #17 of 25 (5244 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455

Re: [caughtinside] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
Yes, that was an awesome vid. I was holding my breath watching her try to stuff that cam. great!
I watched that part 3 times.
Was relieved when it held.
Great video.
Very well put together.
Then I watched a related video of her "bouldering" in Bishop. Haha. Pretty high up.


rtwilli4


Jun 17, 2011, 10:22 PM
Post #18 of 25 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Interesting to see Lisa Rands (one of my favorites btw) go into the same "bad technique mode" that I go into, using crap holds and just moving the gear around hoping that the rock will reach out and grab it.

Of course I do that a few NUMBER grades below her.


bearbreeder


Jun 18, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post #19 of 25 (5078 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

no better way to learn (get destroyed) than climbing with a legend like mr croft ...

when i see crofts name as the FA on a route in squamish ... i say to myself ... "shiet its gonna be a hella epic climb"


hafilax


Jun 18, 2011, 11:50 PM
Post #20 of 25 (5043 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [bearbreeder] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I cursed the name Croft the whole way up the Milk Run corner crack.


mr.tastycakes


Jun 21, 2011, 4:44 PM
Post #21 of 25 (4899 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

awesome video. It's wild that Lisa is basically learning to trad climb on a 5.12+ alpine wall.

Oh, and they're using grigris. What a bunch of noobs.


hafilax


Jun 21, 2011, 6:36 PM
Post #22 of 25 (4838 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
awesome video. It's wild that Lisa is basically learning to trad climb on a 5.12+ alpine wall.

Oh, and they're using grigris. What a bunch of noobs.
How could that tipped out cam possibly have held with a GriGri? Croft must be a wizard.


RobAT


Jun 22, 2011, 1:15 AM
Post #23 of 25 (4760 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 15

Re: [hafilax] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Did anyone else feel Peter Croft looked a little sketched at around 6:20?
(The part where he was fiddling with gear while holding on with two fingers of one hand and smearing his feet on frosty granite)

Five star movie!


dagibbs


Jun 22, 2011, 3:48 AM
Post #24 of 25 (4740 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921

Re: [RobAT] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

RobAT wrote:
Did anyone else feel Peter Croft looked a little sketched at around 6:20?
(The part where he was fiddling with gear while holding on with two fingers of one hand and smearing his feet on frosty granite)

Five star movie!

Nah, he looked fine. Calmly placing a little tiny wire, then doing some hard moves. Or, at least to me, he looked fine.


DuckBeard


Jun 22, 2011, 5:32 AM
Post #25 of 25 (4718 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 9, 2010
Posts: 29

Re: [cracklover] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO

I thought she was implying that she was taking steps back in terms of her going from being a beast of a boulderer to a complete alpine climbing newb.

Either way, I really enjoyed the video.


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook