snoopy138 wrote:

snupe, you are the patent liar. You need to find the filings on this Booty Clapper.

I think I would have named it the Booty Tapper.

caughtinside wrote:

snoopy138 wrote:

check out the other thread the dude started earlier in the day
http://www.mountainproject.com/...os-the-man/107208258

hard to say what to do... if that guy came up to me and said 'that's my cam and you'll never get it out' and I got it out... I probably wouldn't give it back to him either.

murf wrote:

murf wrote:

Diphthong wrote:

Diphthong wrote:

caughtinside wrote:

drivel wrote:

Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked.

Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers.

Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight.

Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing.

Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!!

Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out.

After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze.

Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like.

imnotclever wrote:

I'd tell him he could have it back if he paid me my usual billing rate.

cracklover wrote:

sounds like a sweet weekend.

my report:

I haven't been out climbing in like three weeks, due to dancing/stuff/life, and I have barely been in the gym in that time, because the bouldering co-op/garage space is not cooled. and it is an oven at the moment. way nasty to climb in. I did break down and go climb at the local uni wall once. they have to hire work study students, and consequently, almost all the employees are bitches.

anyway, went out to the lake on saturday, expected it to be super crowded, but it was actually pretty chill. theme of the wekeend. i guess maybe its getting hot enough that ppl are staying home. got the .11d sport line that was breaking my heart last time we were there, with the icing-on-top hard move to the anchors. convinced my buddy to hang the draws for me even though it was a little bit in the sun an 80 something degrees out. he hung a few times, and was annoyed that conditions werent better, 'cause the route is fucking awesome. then I redsighted it! it has a ton of big moves and is class nrg crimp-highstep reachy. i was psyched. and played on a .12b called "all the way baby" because sprayack was set up to take pics. is called that because there is a huge move in it. i never thought i'd be able to do it, because i didn't think my arms would span the two holds. and it turns out that's true- i cannot be on both holds at the same time. but i almost got it anyway. chuckin' real hard and hitting the far hold but not quite stickin. then, walked over to where the guys were, and they'd already pulled all but two draws on the other .12 they were on, that I rp'd last time we were at the lake. i was like wait wait i wanted to go up it and promised to hang my own draws like a big boy and everything. so I did that, and I only once, I was pretty psyched. then I did some dumb/futile playing around on some super steep stuff with fixie gear and then we went swimming. gud day.

sunday, we again had way fewer crowds to fight than I thought we would. I onsighted another .11c and flashed the one adjacent to it. and a third of the grade that I also hadnt been on before, I one-hung. I was pretty psyched. good couple of days, very tired. rolled back into town at midnight.

snoopy138 wrote:

What is your bill rate?

imnotclever wrote:

imnotclever wrote:

imnotclever wrote:

imnotclever wrote:

Diphthong wrote:

<--- T minus 200.

cracklover wrote:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bad-karma/107208722

Some laffs here. There is also an accompanying thread somewhere started by that David Arthur Sampson.

Two parties both accuse the other guys of being douchebags. I'm not sure who was baggier. bootang makes people crazy!