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Rockmonkee10


Aug 11, 2011, 5:29 AM
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What should I look for when buying a rope for the first time? There is lots of cheap rope on the Internet that is like 100'. Should I trust that kind of rope? Should I try to find longer ones even though I'll only need a short one for awhile? Some ropes say # of falls. What is that? And yeah I'm a begginner so I have no idea about ropes. Just wanna start being safer with some scary bouldering.


sungam


Aug 11, 2011, 9:39 AM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
What should I look for when buying a rope for the first time? There is lots of cheap rope on the Internet that is like 100'. Should I trust that kind of rope? Should I try to find longer ones even though I'll only need a short one for awhile? Some ropes say # of falls. What is that? And yeah I'm a begginner so I have no idea about ropes. Just wanna start being safer with some scary bouldering.
Okay, first off there is already a lot of information on this kind of thing on this site.

Secondly, when you say "scary bouldering" I assume you mean some of the problems are starting to get highball and you would rather toprope them. Unfortunately you cannot just have a rope and suddenly be safe - you need to know how to rig a toprope anchor.

Even toprope fells can create more force then you may anticipate, and a poorly made anchor may fail - bad news for the climber.

So you really do need to learn how to set up a TR anchor before you consider using a rope.

Maybe consider getting a big bouldering mat instead. It's around the same price as a rope+anchor stuff and you'll be able to use it on lower problems too. Just make sure you practice landing + spotting and think critically about pad placement.

Go all the way and get a couple of dank beanies, a fat bouldering bucket with 9 chalk balls, half a pound of loose chalk, and 3 brushes in it, and a brush attached to a telescopic mop handle. Wink


Partner j_ung


Aug 11, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Re: [Rockmonkee10] Rope [In reply to]
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Ask over at the Dead Horse Graveyard.


Rockmonkee10


Aug 11, 2011, 5:39 PM
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Well yeah scary bouldering for me ad my little group is basically the higher ones with moves that would make us fall backwards if we fell. I have already looked into learning about anchors and how that all works. I'm definetly not gonna just take dumb risks by going out there without knowing what I'm doing. If there is already a loop thing (the name escapes me I'm sorry) bolted in do we need to make an anchor or will that be enough to top rope? If by bouldering mats u mean crash pad Im not sure I wanna go that route. I saw a pretty expensive one at a sun and ski and it didn't look like it would do much more than save our feet from the rocks below. Probably wouldn't help from a fall from the things I've climbed and the scarier ones I want to climb.
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JoeHamilton


Aug 11, 2011, 5:53 PM
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Crash mats make a great couch for breaks too.
I was bouldering in N.H. a place called the pound, fell as you say backwards, landed on my ass and lower back, my kid had my head and shoulders in her hands and arms. IF NOT FOR THE CRASH MAT, I might not have have gone that high,and might have a severly bruised tail bone.

It is recomended not to boulder or traverse higher then you are comfortable JUMPING from. Most of your falls will be backwards, your not gonna fall face first, that is why you have spotters and crash pads. some boulders wont have anythiing to set bomber anchores availible, AND big and , someone will have to climb to the top to set up a top rope anyway.

Take a low hieght maybe 10 feet, overhanging boulder problem. A top rope might not save you as much as spoters and a crash pad will. It might even be pulling you off the problem more then helping you send it .

I am no expert, it sounds to me you might want to do some more reading, and meet a few people from here in your area to climb with. Have fun, and be safe.


JoeHamilton


Aug 11, 2011, 5:54 PM
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Oh bouldering shouldnt be scary. If it is maybe stick to smaller problems, till your strength and confidence is higher.


MS1


Aug 11, 2011, 7:33 PM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Well yeah scary bouldering for me ad my little group is basically the higher ones with moves that would make us fall backwards if we fell. I have already looked into learning about anchors and how that all works. I'm definetly not gonna just take dumb risks by going out there without knowing what I'm doing. If there is already a loop thing (the name escapes me I'm sorry) bolted in do we need to make an anchor or will that be enough to top rope? If by bouldering mats u mean crash pad Im not sure I wanna go that route. I saw a pretty expensive one at a sun and ski and it didn't look like it would do much more than save our feet from the rocks below. Probably wouldn't help from a fall from the things I've climbed and the scarier ones I want to climb.

Right now, you are a SPLAT waiting to happen. More than any particular gear, you need to get someone experienced to show you, in person, the basics of bouldering or top-roping. Buying a rope and trying to figure everything out yourself is a quick way to become a statistic.


(This post was edited by MS1 on Aug 11, 2011, 7:34 PM)


sungam


Aug 11, 2011, 7:35 PM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Well yeah scary bouldering for me ad my little group is basically the higher ones with moves that would make us fall backwards if we fell.

I have already looked into learning about anchors and how that all works. I'm definetly not gonna just take dumb risks by going out there without knowing what I'm doing. If there is already a loop thing (the name escapes me I'm sorry) bolted in do we need to make an anchor or will that be enough to top rope?

If by bouldering mats u mean crash pad Im not sure I wanna go that route. I saw a pretty expensive one at a sun and ski and it didn't look like it would do much more than save our feet from the rocks below. Probably wouldn't help from a fall from the things I've climbed and the scarier ones I want to climb.

You can go pretty high above a pad: http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related (Beware: May contain Jason Khel).

How high are you going? How bad is the landing?

As far as your "loop" goes, you are going to have to specify. Personally I would recommend you stick to bouldering (preferably with a pad) until you have learned enough about anchors etc. to safely toprope.

Also, remember that to toprope you don't just need a rope. You need slings/webbing, harnesses, 'biners and a belay plate. Not cheap stuff.


Edit to add: If you can find someone who is fully competent who can teach you, or who can just climb with you and set up the anchors etc. then that is fine. Don't try to wing it. Small mistakes (that you may not even know can be made) can have huge consequences.


(This post was edited by sungam on Aug 11, 2011, 7:36 PM)


Player


Aug 12, 2011, 1:15 AM
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Just ask the person teaching you how to do anchors about ropes. He will know plenty.


Kartessa


Aug 12, 2011, 3:26 AM
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Great Scott! You're not serious?!

I'll give this a T2 rating but just in case I'm wrong:

Stop watching cliffhanger, and ask for some help before you go spending money on a new way to hurt yourself. Chances are, you probably aren't going to die, but I doubt that flipping burgers affords the kind of health care you're going to need with the crap you're imagining to pull off.

Things are done a certain way for a reason. I don't care how smart your mom thinks you are, you can't reinvent the wheel.


Rockmonkee10


Aug 12, 2011, 3:56 AM
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Ok I see the general consensus is to have an experienced climber help me. I definetly want that too but can't seem to find one. I haven't bought anything outside of chalk and shoes yet so don't worry about me trying to do it myself haha. I guess the loop thing is just a top rope anchor bolted deep in the rock. I figure I'm supposed to put the top through it. Or maybe a "quick draw". No freaking clue what I'm talking about haha. Yeah I have climbed higher than i feel safe jumping down from. Not smart I know. There's just nothing but highball stuff where I live. When I said falling back I meant on my back. And not from like 10 feet. More like 15-22 feet. I just don't wanna waste money on a pad if I could spend it on a rope. But yeah I'm not buying anything really until I know how to do things safely especially with anchors. Thanks for everyones help so far.


JoeHamilton


Aug 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Ok I see the general consensus is to have an experienced climber help me. I definetly want that too but can't seem to find one. I haven't bought anything outside of chalk and shoes yet so don't worry about me trying to do it myself haha. I guess the loop thing is just a top rope anchor bolted deep in the rock. I figure I'm supposed to put the top through it. Or maybe a "quick draw". No freaking clue what I'm talking about haha. Yeah I have climbed higher than i feel safe jumping down from. Not smart I know. There's just nothing but highball stuff where I live. When I said falling back I meant on my back. And not from like 10 feet. More like 15-22 feet. I just don't wanna waste money on a pad if I could spend it on a rope. But yeah I'm not buying anything really until I know how to do things safely especially with anchors. Thanks for everyones help so far.



Look, Put the bowl down, haha, read what we are saying to you. You will not be wasteing money on a crash pad. It will last longer then a rope will. It is safer. the LOOP THINGY is a BOLT if you are finding a BOLT at 15 - 22 feet up it might be a on a wall that is even higher p then that, with more bolts, that would be a sport route. Setting a top rope on a single bolt might also be a bad idea.


Simple man, keep it simple, buy a crash pad and have fun bouldering, btw the boulder I was talking about at its high oint is 25 to 30 feet I messured it with a 27 foot sling when I was up top setting a top rope for my daughter to climb on of the routes. Brings to one of the points I was making, SOMEONE HAS TO CLIMB TO THE TOP OR TO THE BOLTS TO SET THE ROPE crash pad and spoters were needed more the the rope around my shoulder.

We arent dogin ya, we are tryin to help.


Rockmonkee10


Aug 12, 2011, 4:22 AM
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I wasn't sure what it was called. This is the forums for beginners right? The bolt is on the top of a 25 foot wall. It has several routes up it that are easy and several that are challenging. It's not a sport route. So your telling me falling 25 feet to my back is safe with a 4" thick crash pad? You gotta be kidding me.


JoeHamilton


Aug 12, 2011, 4:35 AM
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If you have good spotters with you. The pads are made with TECHNOLOGY behind them, the way they are made is to not BOTTOM OUT , you can jump from 25 feet and your feet wont bottom to the ground. If you can get to the top and there are two bolts then you can use some webing and locking biners to make an achore worth top ropeing on... It sounds like your at a small top ropeing wall not a highball boulder.


Rockmonkee10


Aug 12, 2011, 5:00 AM
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Technology? Well that's all you had to say. We simpletens are dumb. Yep we are dumb. Since technology is now in the picture I could prolly dive head first from 50 feet up on a crash pad. Falling on my back from only 25 feet should be cake. Lisa Rands was a little shaken up from a fall from 25 feet up landing on her feet on 2 crash pads. They prolly didn't have your wonderful technology.

So it's a top ropeing wall? Then why are u still telling me to get a crash pad? It's soooo frustrating hearing someone who has more experience than you talk like a complete moron. I feel like everyone up until you have had good intentions with their advice. You want me to buy some stupid crash pad that isn't going to keep me or my climbing partners (such as my 15 year old little brother) remotely safe. Yes I understand I need anchors and mentors and a whole bunch of crap. That's not what this forum is about. You remind me of all the older stuck up architecture students who tells me how bad my work is just to try to keep their ego inflated and so they can feel superior at something in their pathetic lives. All I really wanted to know was some info about ropes. The best advice I got was to go check out a different section of this website. Every single question I had was answered there. I had forgotten why I hate using forums. Thank you for reminding me.


(This post was edited by Rockmonkee10 on Aug 12, 2011, 5:20 AM)


JAB


Aug 12, 2011, 6:47 AM
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Crash pads are useful to up to maybe 15 feet, and maybe 25 if you have several of them. After that you are not really supposed to fall.

So on highball boulder routes, it is actually pretty common to work the higher moves on toprope. That is probably the reason there is a bolt there. So in this case I think it is perfectly reasonable to get a rope. Of course, you need a harness, and for the belayer a harness as well and a belay device.

Note though, that you will have no help of a rope on low, overhanging stuff, so you will probably want to get a crash pad as well.


sungam


Aug 12, 2011, 7:51 AM
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Just one more note - if you don't feel safe going to the top, you don't have to take the problem to the top. Several of my local bouldering areas are actually cliffs that turn to dirty choss halfway up or (in one case) are illegal to use ropes or gear on. So we go as high as is resonable and then either downclimb if an easier route is possible or drop off.

Joe didn't mean to be rude, and he certainly doesn't think that he is a genius (in fact he plays the "I am not a genius" card fairly often). He just worded it wierd, don't take offense.


Where are you at that you can't meet any experienced climbers locally?


As for the rundown of ropes, don't buy anything that isn't from a climbing shop. I guess that is pretty obvious, but there you go. Whatever you get just make sure it is a single rope. The brand etc. doesn't matter here. You won't be needing a dry treated rope. A thicker rope will generally have better durability, but will weigh more and be more, well, fat. Fat in the device, giant knots, etc.etc. But that doesn't really matter on top rope, so just get whatever is cheapest.
Singles have this symbol on the tape on the ends of the rope:



Make sure it has that one and not one of these:



Ropes with these two markings are not meant to be used alone, they are made to be used in pairs. They have a lot more stretch then single ropes, to the point where you can hit the ground on rope stretch on TR.

Chances are, once you start learning how to rig TR's from someone, sport climbing isn't too far behind. Try to judge how soon you think you will be leading routes, and decide if you are going to get a long rope (50/60m) tht will allow that, or if you are going to get a rope that is only as tall as your TR crag (if a rope that short is available, many stores only sell 50/60/70 lengths).

Sorry we all gave advice that didn't answer your question, we all just get scared for peoples safety when they start asking what rope to get when they have literally no idea about anchors. We don't want anyone to get hurt, know what I mean?


Guran


Aug 12, 2011, 8:51 AM
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Look, there is one thing you need to decide before spending your cash.
Do you want to boulder or do you want to rope climb?

Ropes generally don't protect boulder problems well and boulder pads are not suficcient to protect sport/trad routes.

Lots of climbers do both, naturally, but they use proper equipment depending on which.

So, either decide you want to get into roped climbing, get a rope (as well as slings, harness, biners, brakes and of course a climbing partner) and make sure you have some other means than internet reading and trial and error to figure out how to use them safely.

OR

Decide you prefer bouldering for now, get a mat and have fun doing just that.


iknowfear


Aug 12, 2011, 10:51 AM
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sungam wrote:
Just one more note - if you don't feel safe going to the top, you don't have to take the problem to the top. Several of my local bouldering areas are actually cliffs that turn to dirty choss halfway up or (in one case) are illegal to use ropes or gear on. So we go as high as is resonable and then either downclimb if an easier route is possible or drop off.

Joe didn't mean to be rude, and he certainly doesn't think that he is a genius (in fact he plays the "I am not a genius" card fairly often). He just worded it wierd, don't take offense.


Where are you at that you can't meet any experienced climbers locally?


As for the rundown of ropes, don't buy anything that isn't from a climbing shop. I guess that is pretty obvious, but there you go. Whatever you get just make sure it is a single rope. The brand etc. doesn't matter here. You won't be needing a dry treated rope. A thicker rope will generally have better durability, but will weigh more and be more, well, fat. Fat in the device, giant knots, etc.etc. But that doesn't really matter on top rope, so just get whatever is cheapest.
Singles have this symbol on the tape on the ends of the rope:
[image]http://www.outside.co.uk/images/general/singlerope.gif[/image]


Make sure it has that one and not one of these:
[image]http://www.outside.co.uk/images/general/twinrope.gif[/image]
[image]http://www.outside.co.uk/images/general/halfrope.gif[/image]

Ropes with these two markings are not meant to be used alone, they are made to be used in pairs. They have a lot more stretch then single ropes, to the point where you can hit the ground on rope stretch on TR.

Chances are, once you start learning how to rig TR's from someone, sport climbing isn't too far behind. Try to judge how soon you think you will be leading routes, and decide if you are going to get a long rope (50/60m) tht will allow that, or if you are going to get a rope that is only as tall as your TR crag (if a rope that short is available, many stores only sell 50/60/70 lengths).

Sorry we all gave advice that didn't answer your question, we all just get scared for peoples safety when they start asking what rope to get when they have literally no idea about anchors. We don't want anyone to get hurt, know what I mean?

thats the damn nicest post I've seen in a while. And I second the statement.


sungam


Aug 12, 2011, 10:55 AM
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iknowfear wrote:
thats the damn nicest post I've seen in a while. And I second the statement.
I got bored of pretending to be a dickhead.


MS1


Aug 12, 2011, 1:10 PM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Ok I see the general consensus is to have an experienced climber help me. I definetly want that too but can't seem to find one. I haven't bought anything outside of chalk and shoes yet so don't worry about me trying to do it myself haha. I guess the loop thing is just a top rope anchor bolted deep in the rock. I figure I'm supposed to put the top through it. Or maybe a "quick draw". No freaking clue what I'm talking about haha. Yeah I have climbed higher than i feel safe jumping down from. Not smart I know. There's just nothing but highball stuff where I live. When I said falling back I meant on my back. And not from like 10 feet. More like 15-22 feet. I just don't wanna waste money on a pad if I could spend it on a rope. But yeah I'm not buying anything really until I know how to do things safely especially with anchors. Thanks for everyones help so far.

Beginners have no business bouldering highballs. Learn your craft down low before you add risk to it.

With practice, falling onto your back off a high problem should be a very rare event. You should get your feet under you before you land. Until you can reliably achieve that, you should stick to lowballs with safe landings. Investing in a pad is a great way to make most landings safe.

If you are focused on climbing 20 foot lines as soon as possible then yes, you should buy a rope. But before you do, you need to learn about anchors and belaying from someone experienced. Hanging out at a climbing gym is probably the easiest way to accomplish this, although there are other ways to go about it.


JoeHamilton


Aug 12, 2011, 2:47 PM
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My sincere apologies if I sounded rude or like a know it all. Not the intention, I am trying to figure out your situation.
I am not saying waste money, I am saying the pad will pay for it self and until you learn HOW to set up a proper and safe top rope will be more effective. I do commend you for wanting to keep your brother safe, I climb with my kid, so I understand where you are coming from on that.

Best suggestion I can offer then is simple, GYM, BOOKS, PARTNERS, and last but not least, stay on here and learn as much as you can, even when it seems harsh or rude or know it all.


JoeHamilton


Aug 12, 2011, 2:50 PM
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OH, read single bolt anchor analysis in the general forum


donald949


Aug 12, 2011, 5:59 PM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Ok I see the general consensus is to have an experienced climber help me. I definetly want that too but can't seem to find one. I haven't bought anything outside of chalk and shoes yet so don't worry about me trying to do it myself haha. I guess the loop thing is just a top rope anchor bolted deep in the rock. I figure I'm supposed to put the top through it. Or maybe a "quick draw". No freaking clue what I'm talking about haha. Yeah I have climbed higher than i feel safe jumping down from. Not smart I know. There's just nothing but highball stuff where I live. When I said falling back I meant on my back. And not from like 10 feet. More like 15-22 feet. I just don't wanna waste money on a pad if I could spend it on a rope. But yeah I'm not buying anything really until I know how to do things safely especially with anchors. Thanks for everyones help so far.
Yes the general consensus is to get some help from experienced climbers. Preferably an acredited climbing guide service.
The loop thingy, is the "hanger." The bolt goes through its smaller hole and into the rock. The bolt, if it is instaled correctly is an expansion bolt. Some people call the two pieces a bolt. A caribiner goes through the hanger's larger open hole, sometimes as part of a quick draw.
As Sunny said, buy a climbing rope from a climbing store. You might think you can find a cheaper one at the local hardware store, but really the ropes there aren't much cheaper. And besides they are not the right kind of rope and not designed the right way to stop falls gently. REI can sometimes carry real climbing ropes for good prices. Keep an eye on their sales.
Since you are bouldering someplace that other people use, it has the bolt, watch others, see what they do. Read some books. Get some good instruction.


marc801


Aug 12, 2011, 7:24 PM
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Rockmonkee10 wrote:
Technology? Well that's all you had to say. We simpletens are dumb. Yep we are dumb. Since technology is now in the picture I could prolly dive head first from 50 feet up on a crash pad. Falling on my back from only 25 feet should be cake. Lisa Rands was a little shaken up from a fall from 25 feet up landing on her feet on 2 crash pads. They prolly didn't have your wonderful technology.
So you're now suddenly an expert on crash pad design? How many layers of foam would you recommend? What are the density and deformation parameters? What is the optimal thickness of each layer based on those parameters? How are the layers bonded to each other? Is there any kind of non-foam energy dissipation layer in the construction? Nice way you got your panties into a bunch over something you know nothing about.

Rockmonkee10 wrote:
So it's a top ropeing wall? Then why are u still telling me to get a crash pad? It's soooo frustrating hearing someone who has more experience than you talk like a complete moron. I feel like everyone up until you have had good intentions with their advice. You want me to buy some stupid crash pad that isn't going to keep me or my climbing partners (such as my 15 year old little brother) remotely safe. Yes I understand I need anchors and mentors and a whole bunch of crap. That's not what this forum is about. You remind me of all the older stuck up architecture students who tells me how bad my work is just to try to keep their ego inflated and so they can feel superior at something in their pathetic lives. All I really wanted to know was some info about ropes. The best advice I got was to go check out a different section of this website. Every single question I had was answered there. I had forgotten why I hate using forums. Thank you for reminding me.
Well, if you come off sounding like a moron, people will probably respond to you that way.

A huge problem with n00bs in the beginners forum is the aggressive ignorance and then getting all butt-hurt when they don't get the answer they expected, wanted, or understood.

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