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uni_jim
Aug 10, 2011, 12:10 AM
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I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough?
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uni_jim
Aug 10, 2011, 12:12 AM
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gunkiemike
Aug 10, 2011, 12:15 AM
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uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough?
T1
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dagibbs
Aug 10, 2011, 1:20 AM
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I wonder... could this be a troll?
*sigh*
No.
If the bolt goes, you're gone. You say there's a crack right there -- put a bomber piece in the crack, or a couple non-bomber. Or, in other words, think about how you'd build a trad anchor if you had a bomber nut placement -- treat the bolt as a bomber gear placement. Even with a bomber nut - you wouldn't use just one nut as your anchor.
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climbingtrash
Aug 10, 2011, 1:42 AM
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uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough?
Did you die? Then it must have been good enough. Would I have done that? Hell No. Not if I had a crack to place gear in and could incorporate the bolt into a solid anchor. But this iz probably just a troll.
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Rudmin
Aug 10, 2011, 2:15 AM
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uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough?
You should have equalized it
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uni_jim
Aug 10, 2011, 2:57 AM
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Rudmin wrote: uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough? You should have equalized it
aww shit! I knew I'd forgotten something!!!
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erick
Aug 11, 2011, 11:41 PM
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climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough? Did you die? Then it must have been good enough. Would I have done that? Hell No. Not if I had a crack to place gear in and could incorporate the bolt into a solid anchor. But this iz probably just a troll.
Why bother putting shit in a crack when you've got a bomber bolt right beside? the beauty in a single bolt belay is the speed in the belay setup and take down. Clip and go. Boom -- done. delightful!
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marc801
Aug 12, 2011, 12:02 AM
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uni_jim wrote: I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough?
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redlude97
Aug 12, 2011, 12:27 AM
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marc801 wrote: uni_jim wrote: I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough? What's it matter? You were on a single bolt and despite you saying it was a trad climb, somehow you couldn't figure out to put one or more pieces in the crack. Sounds like you need a remedial anchor building class.
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moose_droppings
Aug 12, 2011, 1:44 AM
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Yer gunna die!!!111
Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes.
KISS.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 12, 2011, 1:51 AM
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hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route.
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moose_droppings
Aug 12, 2011, 1:57 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route.
No, they put belay bolts every 8-10 feet to accommodate climbers with different lengths of ropes.
Come on people, this is pretty basic stuff here.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 12, 2011, 2:13 AM
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moose_droppings wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route. No, they put belay bolts every 8-10 feet to accommodate climbers with different lengths of ropes. Come on people, this is pretty basic stuff here.
Yeah, I was trying to not state the obvious and bring up the fact that climbing ropes, when bought in spools, tend to be spliced in the middle, but there you go, you just had to say it didn't you?
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 2:50 AM
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erick wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: I was rock climbing at a new area the other day on a three pitch trad route. At all of the belay ledges, we only found one bolt next to the crack. This is how I set up my station (photo). I am connected to the bolt with the girth hitched sling, the haff doubles are through seperate biners for redundancy, and my partners secuity rope was tied off to the gold biner with a figure eight. Is this good enough? Did you die? Then it must have been good enough. Would I have done that? Hell No. Not if I had a crack to place gear in and could incorporate the bolt into a solid anchor. But this iz probably just a troll. Why bother putting shit in a crack when you've got a bomber bolt right beside? the beauty in a single bolt belay is the speed in the belay setup and take down. Clip and go. Boom -- done. delightful!
You've got a poynte
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uni_jim
Aug 12, 2011, 3:50 AM
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moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS.
How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 3:53 AM
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uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?
almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun
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uni_jim
Aug 12, 2011, 3:54 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route.
If so, it's the most under-bolted sport route I've seen. One bolt every 30-60m? Pretty sporty!
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uni_jim
Aug 12, 2011, 4:02 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun
like this?
(This post was edited by uni_jim on Aug 12, 2011, 4:03 AM)
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 4:02 AM
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uni_jim wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route. If so, it's the most under-bolted sport route I've seen. One bolt every 30-60m? Pretty sporty!
sounds grid bolted to me
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moose_droppings
Aug 12, 2011, 4:02 AM
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uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?
An alpine butterfly wing has blue with yellow in the center (clip biner to yellow). A clove hitch is all gray and is related to a moth and is not rated for an alpine environment.
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
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uni_jim wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun like this?
no. Moar like this...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/474331-largest_DSCF7681.JPG
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uni_jim
Aug 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route. If so, it's the most under-bolted sport route I've seen. One bolt every 30-60m? Pretty sporty! sounds grid bolted to me
Where can I buy grid bolts? Is that what they use in Potrero?
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 4:10 AM
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moose_droppings wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? An alpine butterfly wing has blue with yellow in the center (clip biner to yellow). A clove hitch is all gray and is related to a moth and is not rated for an alpine environment.
Like this?
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 4:11 AM
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uni_jim wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hmmm...seems to me that you stopped mid-pitch on a sport route. If so, it's the most under-bolted sport route I've seen. One bolt every 30-60m? Pretty sporty! sounds grid bolted to me Where can I buy grid bolts? Is that what they use in Potrero?
No. They use PTFTW bolts in Potrero
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