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single bolt anchor analysis
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climbingtrash


Aug 12, 2011, 1:58 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
here is the monster that ate my rope

[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5894;[/image]


Is that a harmonica brace around his neck?

Looks moar like a PTFTW?!?


climbingtrash


Aug 12, 2011, 1:59 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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single bolt anchorz iz no gud


donald949


Aug 12, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post #53 of 66 (2325 views)
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Re: [uni_jim] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Yer gunna die!!!111


Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes.

KISS.


How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?

almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun


like this?

I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose.


climbingtrash


Aug 12, 2011, 6:08 PM
Post #54 of 66 (2308 views)
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Re: [donald949] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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donald949 wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Yer gunna die!!!111


Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes.

KISS.


How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?

almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun


like this?

I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose.

and knot backed up


swoopee


Aug 12, 2011, 6:28 PM
Post #55 of 66 (2299 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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Thanks a lot. Now I have to go scrub my eyes with clorox.


swoopee


Aug 12, 2011, 6:43 PM
Post #56 of 66 (2296 views)
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Re: [uni_jim] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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It seems to me that there is a route at Stone Mountain NC that you have to belay from a single bolt on one of the pitches. Banana Breath maybe? Anyway, I guess if it's all you've got then that's what you use.


climbingtrash


Aug 12, 2011, 7:05 PM
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Re: [swoopee] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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swoopee wrote:
Thanks a lot. Now I have to go scrub my eyes with clorox.
Angelic


donald949


Aug 12, 2011, 10:13 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
donald949 wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Yer gunna die!!!111


Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes.

KISS.


How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch?

almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun


like this?

I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose.

and knot backed up
Back up knot needed.


















This baby is bomber


rock_fencer


Aug 13, 2011, 12:38 AM
Post #59 of 66 (2249 views)
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Re: [uni_jim] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.


climbingtrash


Aug 13, 2011, 4:49 AM
Post #60 of 66 (2225 views)
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Re: [rock_fencer] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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rock_fencer wrote:
I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.

That's not supposed to happen.


marc801


Aug 13, 2011, 5:15 AM
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Re: [climbingtrash] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
rock_fencer wrote:
I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.

That's not supposed to happen.
Eventually, it will happen to all bolts.


climbingtrash


Aug 13, 2011, 5:24 AM
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Re: [marc801] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
rock_fencer wrote:
I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.

That's not supposed to happen.
Eventually, it will happen to all bolts.

That iz korekt!


uni_jim


Aug 16, 2011, 4:47 AM
Post #63 of 66 (2127 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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some prefer if my bolt comes out. Unimpressed


uni_jim


Aug 16, 2011, 4:50 AM
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Re: [rock_fencer] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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rock_fencer wrote:
I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.


climbingtrash


Aug 16, 2011, 12:29 PM
Post #65 of 66 (2109 views)
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Re: [uni_jim] single bolt anchor analysis [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
rock_fencer wrote:
I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out.

I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.

I see wut you did there.


uni_jim


Aug 16, 2011, 5:44 PM
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