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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 1:58 PM
Post #51 of 66
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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Gmburns2000 wrote: uni_jim wrote: here is the monster that ate my rope [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5894;[/image] Is that a harmonica brace around his neck? Looks moar like a PTFTW?!?
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 1:59 PM
Post #52 of 66
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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single bolt anchorz iz no gud
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donald949
Aug 12, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post #53 of 66
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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uni_jim wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun like this? I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose.
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climbingtrash
Aug 12, 2011, 6:08 PM
Post #54 of 66
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donald949 wrote: uni_jim wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun like this? I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose. and knot backed up
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swoopee
Aug 12, 2011, 6:28 PM
Post #55 of 66
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Thanks a lot. Now I have to go scrub my eyes with clorox.
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swoopee
Aug 12, 2011, 6:43 PM
Post #56 of 66
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It seems to me that there is a route at Stone Mountain NC that you have to belay from a single bolt on one of the pitches. Banana Breath maybe? Anyway, I guess if it's all you've got then that's what you use.
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donald949
Aug 12, 2011, 10:13 PM
Post #58 of 66
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climbingtrash wrote: donald949 wrote: uni_jim wrote: climbingtrash wrote: uni_jim wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Yer gunna die!!!111 Tie off 2 looped tech cords to bolt and equalize to your two front gear loops on harness. On one loop have an alpine butterfly, clip a locker into it and belay up second from there. Hold tongue on left side, cross middle two toes. KISS. How do I identify an Alpine Butterfly? Is it similar to a clover hitch? almost eye-dentical. Use yore imaginashun like this? I hope your not actually planning to climb on that rope. Cause the knot is too loose. and knot backed up Back up knot needed. This baby is bomber
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rock_fencer
Aug 13, 2011, 12:38 AM
Post #59 of 66
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.
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climbingtrash
Aug 13, 2011, 4:49 AM
Post #60 of 66
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rock_fencer wrote: I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out. That's not supposed to happen.
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marc801
Aug 13, 2011, 5:15 AM
Post #61 of 66
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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climbingtrash wrote: rock_fencer wrote: I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out. That's not supposed to happen. Eventually, it will happen to all bolts.
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climbingtrash
Aug 13, 2011, 5:24 AM
Post #62 of 66
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marc801 wrote: climbingtrash wrote: rock_fencer wrote: I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out. That's not supposed to happen. Eventually, it will happen to all bolts. That iz korekt!
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uni_jim
Aug 16, 2011, 4:47 AM
Post #63 of 66
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
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some prefer if my bolt comes out.
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uni_jim
Aug 16, 2011, 4:50 AM
Post #64 of 66
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rock_fencer wrote: I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out.
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climbingtrash
Aug 16, 2011, 12:29 PM
Post #65 of 66
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uni_jim wrote: rock_fencer wrote: I've come across this more than once in NC and SC. I was also part of a FA where we only had two more bolts and clearly needed one for the next pitch, resulting in a cam and single bolt combo. Never happy with it,but its better than nothing! Especially if its shiny and you can make sure it doesn't pop out. I've also had a partner who relayed a story about a climb at Laurel Knob where the belay was one bolt. He actually tried to pull on it before clipping in, and good thing because it came out. I see wut you did there.
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uni_jim
Aug 16, 2011, 5:44 PM
Post #66 of 66
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