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sonso45
Sep 8, 2011, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
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One of Arizona's most popular climbing destinations is getting loved a bit much. The Concerned Climbers of AZ is organizing a fundraiser at Jacks Canyon on October 01, 2011 for the purpose of replacing worn anchors. If you can attend we will see you there and if not, you can still help maintain the climbs.
CCA is accepting $10 donations and in consideration will give you a bolt/piece of anchor with a certificate of replacement: route name, date replaced and a CCA sticker.
If you wish to contribute and can't attend, please contact the CCA: loclimbs@gmail.com
(This post was edited by sonso45 on Sep 8, 2011, 7:00 PM)
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 8, 2011, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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I thought Jacks was a hoot and I will gladly adopt and anchor.
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jbone
Sep 8, 2011, 8:13 PM
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Are you putting new Weld-Shuts back in or is it possible to convert to conventional hangers?
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sonso45
Sep 8, 2011, 9:53 PM
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We are presently looking to buy or have hardware donated. Dee has gear she said we could use. I have been looking.
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sonso45
Sep 10, 2011, 4:27 PM
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Jbone, my preference is to move away from cold shuts of all kinds and use beefier hardware. Dee has mentioned using mussy hooks.
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jbone
Sep 10, 2011, 5:45 PM
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I'd always kinda figured there would be some hindsight going on when the topic of anchor replacement came up. Although a weld shut can allow you to rap off a route without leaving any gear, it does tend to wear quicker because of it.
I seem to recall quite a few of the weld-shuts had been recessed into place by the bolter using the drill to relieve a portion of the rock behind the weld-shut, apparently this reduced the possibility of the weld shut spinning in place.
With this in mind it may be difficult to replace every weld-shut. Some routes may require a few weld-shuts because of the recessing and it might be more practical to mix gear rather than put another hole next to an old hole that may be unusable with a hanger.
When it comes to anchors, and your forced to re-use a weld-shut, it may be most practical to use length of chain and link that to the weld-shut.
I'm sure you guys discussed all of this at your meeting, hopefully this endeavor can add a few more decades to Jacks.
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