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rtsteed
Sep 12, 2011, 1:15 AM
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Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt?
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DougMartin
Sep 12, 2011, 1:42 AM
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rtsteed wrote: Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt?
As long as you are staying on routes that you don't fall how would it bite you in the butt? If your climbing 5.2 or so then I say grow a set and get out there! If your out there in the 10's or better IMO you have every right to be wired above your pro as a lead fall sucks! There is no grab a rock and pull your self back in to where you fell off, you have to climb your butt back up, if you can even get back to the rock face to begin with.
Some would say that falling is part of the sport we love, and something you must not be afraid of, and I agree with them. However falling is not the intended outcome of a climb! If the fear of falling is keeping you down then fall a few times on purpose (sport climbing is great for learning how to fall that's all they do) but if that fear is just keeping you focused on your climbing then its doing its job! Just remember no matter how easy or hard you climb your gonna fall sometime! Its best to know what it feel like before it happens unexpectedly that way the fall itself doesn't freeze you up the rest of the day!
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 12, 2011, 2:48 AM
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It'll come.
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wonderwoman
Sep 12, 2011, 4:01 PM
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Someday, you will take a lead fall. You may not even see it coming. On trad, make sure you know your gear placements and do a ton of groundwork before you get on anything challenging enough that you might take a fall.
Also, think about the consequences of the fall and never allow the rope to get behind your leg because you might flip upside down and smack your head. I learned that lesson the hard way.
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robx
Sep 12, 2011, 4:36 PM
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I feel like clean/safe falling is something you can only learn through doing. it might be worth your time to take a couple falls on bolts. Find a route out of your comfort rating, but with a very safe fall area and push yourself. It might also help your comfort level as your transition.
That being said, there are absolutely places you shouldn't fall.
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Mariofercol
Sep 12, 2011, 4:54 PM
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Well if you want to continue with climbs that you are familiar and that are in your comfort zone the chances of you falling are low. Now, do you want to climb harder stuff, do you want to push it, then you are going to fall.
Your comfort zone is not only limited by your physical ability, but mostly by your mental strength. I've seen plenty of gym rats, very athletic and muscly, who will not dare to lead anything outdoors.
(This post was edited by Mariofercol on Sep 12, 2011, 5:01 PM)
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zealotnoob
Sep 12, 2011, 4:58 PM
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If you're not flying, you're not trying.
Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip.
Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right).
Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too.
Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck.
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Sep 12, 2011, 6:03 PM)
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tolman_paul
Sep 12, 2011, 5:21 PM
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Two points.
1) Just because you are belayed with a rope and have placed gear doesn't mean falling is without hazards. There are places on many climbs where falling isn't a good idea, so making a habbit of falling isn't always a good plan.
2) As others have said, you'll likely find that to push the grades, you are going to end up falling.
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 5:29 PM
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I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect.
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wonderwoman
Sep 12, 2011, 5:53 PM
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njrox wrote: I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect.
You can easily simulate a lead fall on top rope. Just have your partner lock off and proceed to climb a little further. Rock Warrior's Way has some good practice exercises in the back of the book.
I wouldn't recommend taking practice falls on gear if you're new. Just keep on getting mileage on easier stuff and do the groundwork so you have confidence in your gear.
If you do take some practice falls in a controlled environment, make damn sure that your partner is experienced and capable of catching you. You don't want experimental catches with your experimental falls on your experimental gear.
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 6:14 PM
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The lock-off on Top Rope actually sounds like a really good idea.
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Mariofercol
Sep 12, 2011, 6:27 PM
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njrox wrote: I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect.
I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing.
I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold.
(This post was edited by Mariofercol on Sep 12, 2011, 6:28 PM)
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 6:35 PM
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Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold.
Good point. It's not something to play around with.
I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet.
More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Sep 12, 2011, 7:50 PM
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If youre not falling, youre not climbing hard enough.
/thread
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rangerrob
Sep 12, 2011, 11:29 PM
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I've taken a crapload of falls on gear. I'm known as the flight master in my climbing circle. That being said, i didnl;t just start climbing and falling right away. It was two or three years of climbing a shitload of easy routes, placing tons of gear, and having it inspected by very competent climbers before I pushed myself hard enough to start falling. I hit my wall at around 5.10b.
Also, as someone has previously mentioned, always pay attention to where that rope is with respect to your legs. taking the extra second to get it out from behind your leg is well worth the energy burned. Falling with the rope wrapped around your leg is a sure way to f*** yourself up. Stay alert, keep the rope clear all the time, and just slowly start pushing the grade. Eventually you will find your lead limit.
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hugepedro
Sep 13, 2011, 4:16 AM
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njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point.
Not really.
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hugepedro
Sep 13, 2011, 4:31 AM
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rtsteed wrote: Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt?
Place a couple pieces before cruxes. Equalize them if it makes you feel better. Then see how your comfort level increases.
Not a bad practice anyway in situations of greater fall risk.
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jacques
Sep 13, 2011, 4:52 AM
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rtsteed wrote: . while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt?
The games is to reach the summit without falling or rest on th rope. Falling is an accident when you don't see or analyse the move. It is like a fire training, you always did it for one time. I save my life a couple of time with that mentality
Learning and training safety most always be your major concern. Many climber learn how to do hard move and never think about what happen in a fall. worse, when they told them to place a pro because they are going to be in danger, they laught as if they can not be in danger
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jt512
Sep 13, 2011, 6:28 AM
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njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher.
You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue?
You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you.
Jay
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 13, 2011, 1:54 PM
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jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay
Jay, he wasn't giving advice. Sometimes a good 'ol STFU is warranted. Not in this case.
Josh
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njrox
Sep 13, 2011, 1:59 PM
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jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay
Haha, I have no idea what "STFU, n00b"? means.
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ceebo
Sep 13, 2011, 3:09 PM
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Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?. I have been shown ''good'' placements from many people, yet when i ask them about their trad falls.. zero. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them.
Personally im like you, never fell in trad and tbh don't realy plan on it. I will only consider falls on a project where i know the placements are good (as in i have safe tested them). Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 13, 2011, 3:11 PM)
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