|
USnavy
Oct 27, 2011, 10:03 AM
Post #1 of 15
(2917 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else?
(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 27, 2011, 10:08 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Oct 27, 2011, 12:27 PM
Post #2 of 15
(2846 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
USnavy wrote: I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else?
Those dates are busy season in Thailand, it will be expensive. Check out Vietnam maybe Cat Ba.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Oct 27, 2011, 10:32 PM
Post #4 of 15
(2803 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
guangzhou wrote: USnavy wrote: I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else? Those dates are busy season in Thailand, it will be expensive. Check out Vietnam maybe Cat Ba.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Oct 27, 2011, 10:55 PM
Post #5 of 15
(2798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
USnavy wrote: guangzhou wrote: USnavy wrote: I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else? Those dates are busy season in Thailand, it will be expensive. Check out Vietnam maybe Cat Ba. Busy climbing season, or busy tourist season?
Both. November is not as bad as Dec and Jan, but prices go up for everything around that time and it will be busy at the popular areas. Plenty for the g/f to do though.
With regards to temp, Nov is not any different than Dec - Feb. I've never really understood why people think that it's best to go in "cool season." There is no cool season, it's always freakin' hot. If you can't climb in November or April or July, there is little chance that you would enjoy Dec or Jan.
If you are dead set on Thailand, November is better than Dec and Jan for crowds and prices. If you can climb in hot humid weather in the shade then you can climb in Thailand any time.
I've never been to Vietnam, but I've heard good things. Also some bad, but usually from people who are in love w/ Thailand. The temps will probably be better up there though, more like what we'd want to climb in here in the US.
You could go to Vang Vieng in Laos. It's getting cool/cold up there in November and there are a lot of caves to check out as well as wild raves at night and a river that is lined with bars that you float past on inner tubes. Not my thing, but maybe yours?
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Oct 28, 2011, 12:40 AM
Post #6 of 15
(2787 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
rtwilli4 wrote: USnavy wrote: guangzhou wrote: USnavy wrote: I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else? Those dates are busy season in Thailand, it will be expensive. Check out Vietnam maybe Cat Ba. Busy climbing season, or busy tourist season? Both. November is not as bad as Dec and Jan, but prices go up for everything around that time and it will be busy at the popular areas. Plenty for the g/f to do though. With regards to temp, Nov is not any different than Dec - Feb. I've never really understood why people think that it's best to go in "cool season." There is no cool season, it's always freakin' hot. If you can't climb in November or April or July, there is little chance that you would enjoy Dec or Jan. If you are dead set on Thailand, November is better than Dec and Jan for crowds and prices. If you can climb in hot humid weather in the shade then you can climb in Thailand any time. I've never been to Vietnam, but I've heard good things. Also some bad, but usually from people who are in love w/ Thailand. The temps will probably be better up there though, more like what we'd want to climb in here in the US. You could go to Vang Vieng in Laos. It's getting cool/cold up there in November and there are a lot of caves to check out as well as wild raves at night and a river that is lined with bars that you float past on inner tubes. Not my thing, but maybe yours?
Excellent response. On the Vietnam front, the more I hear about it lately, the more the issues seem to have been resolved.
|
|
|
|
|
Khoi
Oct 29, 2011, 5:36 PM
Post #7 of 15
(2748 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: USnavy wrote: I am thinking of leaving the country for three weeks sometime next week. I am mainly looking for sport climbing but want to go somewhere where there are also tourist type activities that I can take my girlfriend to at night (e.g. a place like Smith Rocks would not be a good option as it only has climbing, nothing else). What options are there? I am looking at Thailand, but how hot is it in Nov? I am told it doesent start to get cooler until Dec. Of course there is Spain. What else? I hear there is good climbing in Uzbekistan. I even know someone you can partner up with.  Josh
He should also bring a guide with him, someone who will makes sure he does everything right as to avoid generating 9kN at the belay... 
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Oct 30, 2011, 4:58 AM
Post #8 of 15
(2718 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
What are the best guidebooks out for the area right now? Is it possible to pick up an (English) copy of the book while I am there, or do I absolutely have to get it before I leave?
(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 30, 2011, 5:00 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Oct 30, 2011, 1:49 PM
Post #9 of 15
(2701 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Sam Lighter's book has the most info for anyone that is headed to Thailand, but it is out of date as far as the routes and protection.
King's new book is pretty good, and they did a lot of research to get it right (many guidebooks are incorrect).
Proceeds from both books go to re-bolting, so I'd get one or both. You won't find Sam's book in Thailand, but King's will be available at his shop, or on the internet. It's only written in English. Make sure if you get King's that it's the 2011 version... I think it's the 7th Ed.
|
|
|
|
|
smallclimber
Oct 30, 2011, 2:38 PM
Post #10 of 15
(2696 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301
|
Costa Blanca area in Spain might suit you well. Should still be pleasantly warm in early November. Cheap hotel or condos in the tourist coast area and places to eat (though pretty tacky if you go to Benidorm) or a climbers hostel (I think called the Orange house) near one of the major climbing areas (Sella). Loads of sport within an hours drive (or much closer)in all directions including some multi pitch and coastal routes. Some trad as well but you don't need a rack. You'd probably need a rental car. Best guide book is Rockfax "costa blanca" in english.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Oct 31, 2011, 6:49 AM
Post #11 of 15
(2645 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
rtwilli4 wrote: Sam Lighter's book has the most info for anyone that is headed to Thailand, but it is out of date as far as the routes and protection. King's new book is pretty good, and they did a lot of research to get it right (many guidebooks are incorrect). Proceeds from both books go to re-bolting, so I'd get one or both. You won't find Sam's book in Thailand, but King's will be available at his shop, or on the internet. It's only written in English. Make sure if you get King's that it's the 2011 version... I think it's the 7th Ed.
Also you referenced protection. Are you talking about pro for trad lines, or the condition the bolts are in on the sport routes? I am probably only going to climb the classic lines that everyone does, so I assume the bolts on the popular lines are in good condition?
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Oct 31, 2011, 7:34 AM
Post #12 of 15
(2638 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
USnavy wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Sam Lighter's book has the most info for anyone that is headed to Thailand, but it is out of date as far as the routes and protection. King's new book is pretty good, and they did a lot of research to get it right (many guidebooks are incorrect). Proceeds from both books go to re-bolting, so I'd get one or both. You won't find Sam's book in Thailand, but King's will be available at his shop, or on the internet. It's only written in English. Make sure if you get King's that it's the 2011 version... I think it's the 7th Ed. Well I dont have a guide book and we are suppose to leave in three days, so I guess it would be King's as I wont have time to order one. Do you know where, specifically (you said his shop), I can get one in Thailand? Is his shop on Railay beach? Also you referenced protection. Are you talking about pro for trad lines, or the condition the bolts are in on the sport routes? I am probably only going to climb the classic lines that everyone does, so I assume the bolts on the popular lines are in good condition?
Once you reach the beach, the book is everywhere in every shop. Hard to miss.
As for quality of bolts, don't assume anything there. Many of the classics have been rebolted, but just as many are waiting to collapse. Enjoy the place and make sure you get some Thai Massages early on. You may make it a daily ritual.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Oct 31, 2011, 10:08 AM
Post #13 of 15
(2623 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
I heard there have been some flooding issues in Thailand causing serious problems. Does anyone know anything about this and how it effects the climbing in south Thailand?
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Oct 31, 2011, 12:13 PM
Post #14 of 15
(2614 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
USnavy wrote: I heard there have been some flooding issues in Thailand causing serious problems. Does anyone know anything about this and how it effects the climbing in south Thailand?
nOT EFFECTED AS OF LAST WEEK
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Oct 31, 2011, 2:26 PM
Post #15 of 15
(2598 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Everything Eman has said so far is correct as far as I'm concerned. There are many climbing shops, many will have King's book, but the older versions will be floating around and if you're not careful you'll end up w/ the 6th Ed. Get the 7th, it's A LOT better.
As for bolts, you're looking for Titanium bolts and Red Hilti glue. IIRC, you were using Ti staples in Hawaii so you know what to look for. We use similar (exactly the same) staples, as well as the Tortuga ring bolts. There are probably over 1000 of each on Tonsai/Railey. In 2011 I believe they used a new style, which I have not seen yet.
There are SS bolts that are still safe but they are mostly near or past their expiration date. Best thing to remember is that all bolts are good until they break. Just because you see someone climbing on a route doesn't mean that those bolts will hold big falls. Then again, I took repeated falls on a 20 year old expansion bolt, trying to break it for a video, and couldn't. Then the next day I broke a 10 year old glue in SS bolt (of course we didn't have it on tape).
You really need to donate some money to the rebolting cause, and the best way to do that is to purchase The Thaitanium Project, which you can find here http://thaitaniumproject.com/.
Finally, I update another website's roue database and am always looking for experienced climbers to help me put the correct in the protection field. Since you know about bolts, I would really appreciate it if you could keep a list of how many bolts and what kind are on all pitches you climb. It would be as simple as making a note on the topo in your book.
In exchange I'll send you a tick list and answer any questions you might have or give you some beta on newer, less crowded areas with excellent climbing.
Either way, have fun. Thailand is a bit crazy with crowds and greed, but it's still a wonderful experience that any climber would enjoy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
