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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 1:16 PM
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If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Dec 16, 2011, 1:16 PM)
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olderic
Dec 16, 2011, 2:26 PM
Post #27 of 66
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camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list.
Your "world" seems a bit US centric
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 3:21 PM
Post #28 of 66
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sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route...... Wait, I thought I had a free ticket to being personally guided to Graphic Nature for the epic FFA attempt at the uber classic aid line?
Exactly. That's why I don't want anyone else near it.
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 3:26 PM
Post #29 of 66
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johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool.
I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail.
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 4:21 PM
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styndall wrote: johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool. I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail.
It is something I have always wanted to do but never gotten around to.
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 4:43 PM
Post #31 of 66
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again?
Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay.
G
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 4:49 PM
Post #32 of 66
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Wait, you live on the Front Range? If so, how is it you don't realize that Country Club Crack (an even more popular free climb) gets aided by everyone when they're first learning?
GO
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 4:50 PM
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cracklover wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again? Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay. G
I was just trying to get 6pac's goat. Real 5.11 trad is a little bit more than moderate.
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 5:01 PM
Post #34 of 66
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johnwesely wrote: cracklover wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again? Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay. G I was just trying to get 6pac's goat. Real 5.11 trad is a little bit more than moderate.
Eh, I'm just butthurt because I didn't climb it clean, so it can't be a moderate. Unless I suck. Which is also possible.
G
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snoopy138
Dec 16, 2011, 5:04 PM
Post #35 of 66
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cracklover wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Wait, you live on the Front Range? If so, how is it you don't realize that Country Club Crack (an even more popular free climb) gets aided by everyone when they're first learning? GO
I was under the impression that he lives in california, which just makes the post even more comical.
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snoopy138
Dec 16, 2011, 5:06 PM
Post #36 of 66
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olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric
there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 6:05 PM
Post #37 of 66
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johnwesely wrote: styndall wrote: johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool. I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail. It is something I have always wanted to do but never gotten around to.
I didn't send it, but it was fun to try. It's easy enough to get out there for an hour or two in the afternoon, given how close in it is.
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turbodarky
Dec 16, 2011, 7:38 PM
Post #38 of 66
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snoopy138 wrote: olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
I got on this cool 120 ft. roof crack in Canyonlands, Centurion Crack or something... pretty fun lil climb
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camhead
Dec 16, 2011, 9:16 PM
Post #39 of 66
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snoopy138 wrote: olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
In the original post that I made this list in, I specified that I was omitting both OWs and crack roof boulder problems.
And I don't know what you mean by it being US centric. Next you're going to be telling me that Sasha D wasn't the first female to climb 14d.
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sungam
Dec 19, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Lazlo wrote: sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route...... Wait, I thought I had a free ticket to being personally guided to Graphic Nature for the epic FFA attempt at the uber classic aid line? Exactly. That's why I don't want anyone else near it.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 19, 2011, 1:11 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
Well, at least we know you have no visions of doing the Nose any time soon then.
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rangerrob
Dec 19, 2011, 5:33 PM
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6pac, I'd like to address your question of when it is acceptable to aid a previously freed route. The answer, or course, is....Anytime you feel like it. As long as you're not altering the rock by repeated nailing, or cam hooking, what's the difference, and why would anyone else even care? That's the beauty of climbing. You can climb in whatever style your heart desires.
My question to you would be, why wouldn't it be acceptable to aid climb on any route of your choice, providing you're not tying up a popular route all day?
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rangerrob
Dec 19, 2011, 5:37 PM
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To my knowledge, Spinal Traction in the Gunks has not gone free yet, despite a few hard climbers working it. I had heard somewhere that it was suspected that if it does go freee it will be in the mid 14 range. It's a 30-35' dead horizontal tips and fingers crack and goes on aid at C2.
RR
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6pacfershur
Dec 19, 2011, 5:38 PM
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finally, a rational reply.........apparently it all comes down to personal tastes and ethics, as with many of the topics discussed on this forum
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redlude97
Dec 19, 2011, 7:25 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: finally, a rational reply.........apparently it all comes down to personal tastes and ethics, as with many of the topics discussed on this forum
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6pacfershur
Dec 19, 2011, 9:52 PM
Post #46 of 66
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to clarify....
aid climbing on established free climbs is lame;
(seems im in the minority on this one)
the nose is an example of a mixed free/aid big wall that a few strong climbers have free climbed
nobody i know cares about boulder canyon
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redlude97
Dec 19, 2011, 10:13 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) the nose is an example of a mixed free/aid big wall that a few strong climbers have free climbed nobody i know cares about boulder canyon
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csproul
Dec 19, 2011, 11:56 PM
Post #48 of 66
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one)
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snoopy138
Dec 20, 2011, 1:02 AM
Post #49 of 66
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one)
can you explain why?
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guangzhou
Dec 20, 2011, 2:46 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) can you explain why?
Most likely not.
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