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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 3:45 AM
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While sitting at home in the rain today, I decided to look at a calendar and realized the odds of me doing even a tenth of the routes on my all time Southeast tick list approach zero. Most likely, I will be moving out of the South next summer, and I only have three or four weekends to get out to my favorite winter crags before spring sets in. This realization hit me like a ton of bricks, please excuse the cliche. Whenever I made an excuse not to get on a dream route, I always rationalized it with, "It will be there next time. The rock isn't going anywhere." That always made sense to me, but today, I realized I won't be there next time. In the last six years, I have driven countless hours, spent thousands of dollars, and let many dear friendships fall by the wayside to pursue climbing, but in retrospect, I threw away much of that time because of fear. Fear of failure, fear of success, fear of falling, fear of whatever; all of that led me to say, "maybe another day." Now there are hundreds of routes I passed up and only a few days left to do them. How many days did I climb only a few pitches? How many days did I do nothing but repeats or moderates well within my abilities. How many days did I truly take advantage of the wonderful opportunity I have been granted? I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. I just had so many plans, and it never occurred to me that is all they were. Here is to a guidebook with too many stars and not enough checks.
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dan2see
Jan 22, 2012, 3:52 AM
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JW, you chose to go! So are you running away from something? Or are you running towards something better?
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guangzhou
Jan 22, 2012, 7:33 AM
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johnwesely wrote: While sitting at home in the rain today, I decided to look at a calendar and realized the odds of me doing even a tenth of the routes on my all time Southeast tick list approach zero. Most likely, I will be moving out of the South next summer, and I only have three or four weekends to get out to my favorite winter crags before spring sets in. This realization hit me like a ton of bricks, please excuse the cliche. Whenever I made an excuse not to get on a dream route, I always rationalized it with, "It will be there next time. The rock isn't going anywhere." That always made sense to me, but today, I realized I won't be there next time. In the last six years, I have driven countless hours, spent thousands of dollars, and let many dear friendships fall by the wayside to pursue climbing, but in retrospect, I threw away much of that time because of fear. Fear of failure, fear of success, fear of falling, fear of whatever; all of that led me to say, "maybe another day." Now there are hundreds of routes I passed up and only a few days left to do them. How many days did I climb only a few pitches? How many days did I do nothing but repeats or moderates well within my abilities. How many days did I truly take advantage of the wonderful opportunity I have been granted? I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. I just had so many plans, and it never occurred to me that is all they were. Here is to a guidebook with too many stars and not enough checks. Where are you going?
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Gmburns2000
Jan 22, 2012, 1:11 PM
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johnwesely wrote: While sitting at home in the rain today, I decided to look at a calendar and realized the odds of me doing even a tenth of the routes on my all time Southeast tick list approach zero. Most likely, I will be moving out of the South next summer, and I only have three or four weekends to get out to my favorite winter crags before spring sets in. This realization hit me like a ton of bricks, please excuse the cliche. Whenever I made an excuse not to get on a dream route, I always rationalized it with, "It will be there next time. The rock isn't going anywhere." That always made sense to me, but today, I realized I won't be there next time. In the last six years, I have driven countless hours, spent thousands of dollars, and let many dear friendships fall by the wayside to pursue climbing, but in retrospect, I threw away much of that time because of fear. Fear of failure, fear of success, fear of falling, fear of whatever; all of that led me to say, "maybe another day." Now there are hundreds of routes I passed up and only a few days left to do them. How many days did I climb only a few pitches? How many days did I do nothing but repeats or moderates well within my abilities. How many days did I truly take advantage of the wonderful opportunity I have been granted? I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. I just had so many plans, and it never occurred to me that is all they were. Here is to a guidebook with too many stars and not enough checks. Well said, John, but just think, you're now (potentially) either going to be closer to the 'Gunks and the New or Yosemite (depending on where you land). My girlfriend asked me one day if I wanted to go out on the road and tick off all those major climbs I want to do. I told her that of course I wanted to, but if I had to choose, and thankfully I didn't have to, I'd rather spend my time with her learning about her life and how I'd learn to live in Brazil. My point wasn't that Brazil was more interesting to me (though she certainly is more interesting to me), but more that one can't check off everything in life. There will always be dreams left behind while new ones appear. In short, quit sobbing about the what-could-have-beens and turn that gleam about taking advantage of opportunities into a new opportunity to do different things. Ride the wind and trust it, because it will take you to amazing new places.
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losbill
Jan 22, 2012, 1:47 PM
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Geez John! You have to pace yourself. Save some of that angst. You don't want to expend all of your lifetime supply before you are as old as Greg or, and hard for you to envision, as old as I am. Also you put on a dang good face, every time I have seen you at the crag. You always seem to be having a perfect time. No hint of the dark, tumultuous waters beneath your exterior surface! My prescription? Several weeks reading and mediating on the teachings of that great Zen master George Carlin, or other master of your choice. Me? I'm off to the gym to finally get that tick on the damn Pink route before they reset it! All the best, Bill.
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 2:46 PM
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I really don't mean to come off as so negative. I am really happy with climbing and excited about the future. I am having a difficult time trying to articulate what I feel. The best I can do is to say that certain routes hold a really special place in my emotional makeup. Every great route I have done can easily bring from a one to a ten on the excitement meter just by thinking about it, and there are so many routes I had "definitely" planned on doing eventually. The fact that I will never even see the vast majority of those routes now struck me kind of hard. The feeling is not really sadness or angst but instead very sobering.
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gblauer
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Jan 22, 2012, 2:56 PM
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johnwesely wrote: I really don't mean to come off as so negative. I am really happy with climbing and excited about the future. I am having a difficult time trying to articulate what I feel. The best I can do is to say that certain routes hold a really special place in my emotional makeup. Every great route I have done can easily bring from a one to a ten on the excitement meter just by thinking about it, and there are so many routes I had "definitely" planned on doing eventually. The fact that I will never even see the vast majority of those routes now struck me kind of hard. The feeling is not really sadness or angst but instead very sobering. Ahhh...my "gunks son" is growing up.
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camhead
Jan 22, 2012, 3:46 PM
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Whoa, good thread. I think that any climber who says "I've already climbed everything I want to climb" is deluding him or herself. It's all a process, and you'll never finish all your goals. It's like trying to read every book or learn every song you've ever wanted to; it's an impossible goal, but the process of trying it leaves you that much better an happier. I have regrets, too. I wish that I had gone climbing more and been more structured about projecting and training when I lived in Moab. Rather, I became complacent and laid back about my climbing goals, since I wasn't working full-time and I lived minutes away from amazing rock. Ironically enough, living in Hellhio and being confined to weekend warrior status has motivated me to push my climbing way more than I ever did when I was climbing more full-time as a slackass dirtbag. So, I guess what I'm saying, Johnwesely, is, it sounds like you've maximized your time on the rock as much as you could. I lurked in on your ascents list, and you are fucking CRUSHING. Just be content that you'll never do everything you want to do, and realize that every goal you achieve is just preparation for the next goal. [end of serious thread is serious]
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 4:11 PM
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Camhead, I think my biggest regret is never weighting any gear for well over a year.
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 5:10 PM
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guangzhou wrote: johnwesely wrote: While sitting at home in the rain today, I decided to look at a calendar and realized the odds of me doing even a tenth of the routes on my all time Southeast tick list approach zero. Most likely, I will be moving out of the South next summer, and I only have three or four weekends to get out to my favorite winter crags before spring sets in. This realization hit me like a ton of bricks, please excuse the cliche. Whenever I made an excuse not to get on a dream route, I always rationalized it with, "It will be there next time. The rock isn't going anywhere." That always made sense to me, but today, I realized I won't be there next time. In the last six years, I have driven countless hours, spent thousands of dollars, and let many dear friendships fall by the wayside to pursue climbing, but in retrospect, I threw away much of that time because of fear. Fear of failure, fear of success, fear of falling, fear of whatever; all of that led me to say, "maybe another day." Now there are hundreds of routes I passed up and only a few days left to do them. How many days did I climb only a few pitches? How many days did I do nothing but repeats or moderates well within my abilities. How many days did I truly take advantage of the wonderful opportunity I have been granted? I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. I just had so many plans, and it never occurred to me that is all they were. Here is to a guidebook with too many stars and not enough checks. Where are you going? Philadelphia, Davis CA, Madison WI, or possibly Atlanta, Depends on where my future wife decides to get her PhD.
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camhead
Jan 22, 2012, 5:38 PM
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johnwesely wrote: guangzhou wrote: johnwesely wrote: While sitting at home in the rain today, I decided to look at a calendar and realized the odds of me doing even a tenth of the routes on my all time Southeast tick list approach zero. Most likely, I will be moving out of the South next summer, and I only have three or four weekends to get out to my favorite winter crags before spring sets in. This realization hit me like a ton of bricks, please excuse the cliche. Whenever I made an excuse not to get on a dream route, I always rationalized it with, "It will be there next time. The rock isn't going anywhere." That always made sense to me, but today, I realized I won't be there next time. In the last six years, I have driven countless hours, spent thousands of dollars, and let many dear friendships fall by the wayside to pursue climbing, but in retrospect, I threw away much of that time because of fear. Fear of failure, fear of success, fear of falling, fear of whatever; all of that led me to say, "maybe another day." Now there are hundreds of routes I passed up and only a few days left to do them. How many days did I climb only a few pitches? How many days did I do nothing but repeats or moderates well within my abilities. How many days did I truly take advantage of the wonderful opportunity I have been granted? I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. I just had so many plans, and it never occurred to me that is all they were. Here is to a guidebook with too many stars and not enough checks. Where are you going? Philadelphia, Davis CA, Madison WI, or possibly Atlanta, Depends on where my future wife decides to get her PhD. Well, based on the volume of front page pics on mountainproject, Wisoncsin is a destination-epicenter for toproping climbing in North America! You're all set!
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 7:01 PM
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camhead wrote: Well, based on the volume of front page pics on mountainproject, Wisoncsin is a destination-epicenter for toproping climbing in North America! You're all set! As weird as it sounds, Devil's lake really seems like it is my sort of thing. I really like short routes with poor pro because of the problem solving aspect. I am not excited about the dearth of other options though.
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camhead
Jan 22, 2012, 8:11 PM
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johnwesely wrote: camhead wrote: Well, based on the volume of front page pics on mountainproject, Wisoncsin is a destination-epicenter for toproping climbing in North America! You're all set! As weird as it sounds, Devil's lake really seems like it is my sort of thing. I really like short routes with poor pro because of the problem solving aspect. I am not excited about the dearth of other options though. There is also that interesting looking step limestone sport area near the twin cities (like 4 hrs from Madison?), but I think you can only climb there on weekdays or something. Can't remember what it's called.
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2012, 8:43 PM
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camhead wrote: johnwesely wrote: camhead wrote: Well, based on the volume of front page pics on mountainproject, Wisoncsin is a destination-epicenter for toproping climbing in North America! You're all set! As weird as it sounds, Devil's lake really seems like it is my sort of thing. I really like short routes with poor pro because of the problem solving aspect. I am not excited about the dearth of other options though. There is also that interesting looking step limestone sport area near the twin cities (like 4 hrs from Madison?), but I think you can only climb there on weekdays or something. Can't remember what it's called. Redwing maybe?
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 23, 2012, 2:46 AM
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John, You're still young. You have years of climbing ahead of you. I have to say I would miss NH and the Gunks if I were to move, but I may get to climb places that I never would have if I didn't move on. Right now, you're girlfriend's PhD takes priority, but climbing will always be there. Good Luck! Josh
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potreroed
Jan 23, 2012, 6:03 AM
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Too many routes, too little time. Wisconsin has fabulous climbing--not only the superb quartzite at Devil's Lake but a number of excellent sandstone crags and even a bit of steep limestone.
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granite_grrl
Jan 23, 2012, 6:14 PM
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potreroed wrote: Too many routes, too little time. Wisconsin has fabulous climbing--not only the superb quartzite at Devil's Lake but a number of excellent sandstone crags and even a bit of steep limestone. I've climbed at a number of cliffs in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Not world class, but there's some good stuff there. Really, as long as you're motivated these smaller crags can provide great training oppertunities.
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bill413
Jan 23, 2012, 6:56 PM
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johnwesely wrote: I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. For emphasis of the good.
(This post was edited by bill413 on Jan 23, 2012, 6:57 PM)
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yodadave
Jan 23, 2012, 7:22 PM
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having left the SE in the last year very unexpectedly i can empathize. However i really do believe that motivation trumps location. Be pyched on where you are and what your crushing, even if it's plactic! On a practical level pair down your list to climbs you really want to do this year as opposed to before you die. ie the prow up at table rock NC is classic but also 5.4. I want to do it but i should be capable of doing it for the next 40 years so its important but not urgent. all the hard stuff in Dreamtheater at sandrock AL I may only be capable of climbing for the next 15 yrs. So it's both urgent and important. etc etc Also you are crushing it. Way to go!
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johnwesely
Jan 23, 2012, 7:39 PM
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bill413 wrote: johnwesely wrote: I am not saying I did not enjoy myself. Without a doubt I loved every minute. I wouldn't trade anything for blue skys, cool winds, and the awesome people I have shared this time with. For emphasis of the good. I realized this post may come off as a little bleak. I think part of the reason my revelation hit me so hard is I really have been looking forward to getting out of Athens. I knew I would miss the climbing here, but it never occurred to me I had so little time left. To balance out any real or perceived negativity here is a list of reasons I am excited about the change. While the rock here is great, the four hour drives are quite taxing given that I loathe driving. The route climbing community is small, and the trad climbing community is even smaller. I am really excited about getting plugged in with people who actually know what they are doing and are interested in pushing themselves. I could end up 1.5 hours away from Tahoe and 4 hours from the valley. That would be really sweet. Driving only 45 minutes to Devils Lake would be amazing. I couldn't imagine anything cooler. Three hours to the Gunks would be pretty cool, and I still have a lot left on my Gunkie ticklist. Change is good!
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happiegrrrl
Jan 24, 2012, 2:43 AM
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Having lived in Wisconsin, I can tell you that the winters are COLD! Madison is really a great city, though, and of course the college is too. But COLD!!!!
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 2:56 AM
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happiegrrrl wrote: Having lived in Wisconsin, I can tell you that the winters are COLD! Madison is really a great city, though, and of course the college is too. But COLD!!!! I grew up in MN, so I am used to it. Maybe It would be a good opportunity to climb waterfalls.
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happiegrrrl
Jan 24, 2012, 3:02 AM
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Oh yeah. I forgot that some people like that sort of thing - hahaha. BRRR!
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lena_chita
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Jan 24, 2012, 3:07 AM
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johnwesely wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: Having lived in Wisconsin, I can tell you that the winters are COLD! Madison is really a great city, though, and of course the college is too. But COLD!!!! I grew up in MN, so I am used to it. Maybe It would be a good opportunity to climb waterfalls. Madison is awesome! Still have a soft spot for it in my heart... Oh, and Devil's Lake is the place that got me hooked on climbing. I'd be curious to go back someday and look at it with more jaded eyes. You should get curt to talk about Devil's Lake back in the day of painter's pants.
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