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Training!

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eprex

Feb 25, 2012, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2012
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Training! Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hi all!

I'd like to develop a more stable training routine with your help.

I currently climb indoors the most often, with outdoors occasionally.

I climb indoors Sundays, Mondays, and Fridays. Friday is the day I top rope with a partner while the other two days I'm on my own.

I'm thinking Sundays would be an 'easy' day- going over problems I've already done and making them more fluid, but most importantly not taxing my grip heavily. Monday could be my 'heavy' day, where after a warm up, I'm approaching harder problems that I have yet to complete. Then afterwards, following up with a little campus training.

Any thoughts on that? I'm open to any advice!

Lastly, I'm climbing at a 5.11 / 5.12 rating, and a v4 level. When should I think about getting into lead climbing? I believe the stipulation at my local gym is lead climbing a 5.8 or so, with a certain fall afterwards.

See you at central rock, ma!

eprex

Feb 26, 2012, 7:33 AM
Post #2 of 15 (6639 views)
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Registered: Feb 25, 2012
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Whew, slow forum!

sungam

Feb 26, 2012, 9:32 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

eprex wrote:

Whew, slow forum!

Yeah, it's been a little slow lately. The usual advice that's given is that you should get yourself a copy of "The Self-Coached Climber" and use it to work out your training plans.
It's an excellent book, and should give you the information you are looking for. Also check out the training section in the nicros articles http://www.nicros.com/training/ and planetfear http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php. There is also a great article on this website called "The Making of a Rockprodigy" http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

eprex

Feb 26, 2012, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2012
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Re: [sungam] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sungam wrote:

eprex wrote:

Whew, slow forum!

Thank you, great post. I'm reading the 'rockprodigy' article now!

shockabuku

Feb 26, 2012, 6:39 PM
Post #5 of 15 (6554 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Start leading now.

I like your gym.

jt512

Feb 26, 2012, 7:59 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:

Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

shockabuku

Feb 26, 2012, 9:31 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [jt512] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

jt512 wrote:

shockabuku wrote:

Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.

eprex

Mar 3, 2012, 4:59 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2012
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Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:

jt512 wrote:

shockabuku wrote:

Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.

I've seen some of the lead routes at my gym and they look pretty easy. There are a few that are pretty big holds straight up to the top.

My schedule needs revamping though. I want to have a day where I can work grip, but I'm not sure 1-2 days is enough for recovery.

I'm thinking climbing M,W,F and the gym (for legs and chest) on Sundays.

(This post was edited by eprex on Mar 3, 2012, 4:59 AM)

shockabuku

Mar 3, 2012, 7:08 AM
Post #9 of 15 (6293 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

eprex wrote:

shockabuku wrote:

jt512 wrote:

shockabuku wrote:

Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.

A M, W, F training schedule is pretty easily sustainable for most people. If you start to be chronically tired or sore, take an extra day off.

fr4nkey

Apr 16, 2012, 5:47 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2012
Posts: 3

Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Have look on this site you can find there a bit different way how to do climbing training. http://www.rockclimbingtoronto.net

jt512

Apr 16, 2012, 6:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [fr4nkey] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

fr4nkey wrote:

Have look on this site you can find there a bit different way how to do climbing training. http://www.rockclimbingtoronto.net

More spam.

saint_john

Apr 16, 2012, 8:19 PM
Post #12 of 15 (5757 views)
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Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494

Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.

shockabuku

Apr 16, 2012, 8:52 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [saint_john] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

saint_john wrote:

Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.

That might depend on how frequently you can manage to do it. Or other atypical achievements.

fr4nkey

Apr 17, 2012, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2012
Posts: 3

Re: [jt512] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

ok but that book really works.

jamesnater

Apr 19, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2011
Posts: 131

Re: [saint_john] Training! [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

saint_john wrote:

Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.

LOL

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