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eprex
Feb 25, 2012, 8:44 PM
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Hi all! I'd like to develop a more stable training routine with your help. I currently climb indoors the most often, with outdoors occasionally. I climb indoors Sundays, Mondays, and Fridays. Friday is the day I top rope with a partner while the other two days I'm on my own. I'm thinking Sundays would be an 'easy' day- going over problems I've already done and making them more fluid, but most importantly not taxing my grip heavily. Monday could be my 'heavy' day, where after a warm up, I'm approaching harder problems that I have yet to complete. Then afterwards, following up with a little campus training. Any thoughts on that? I'm open to any advice! Lastly, I'm climbing at a 5.11 / 5.12 rating, and a v4 level. When should I think about getting into lead climbing? I believe the stipulation at my local gym is lead climbing a 5.8 or so, with a certain fall afterwards. See you at central rock, ma!
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eprex
Feb 26, 2012, 7:33 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2012
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Whew, slow forum!
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eprex
Feb 26, 2012, 6:22 PM
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Thank you, great post. I'm reading the 'rockprodigy' article now!
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shockabuku
Feb 26, 2012, 6:39 PM
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Start leading now. I like your gym.
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jt512
Feb 26, 2012, 7:59 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Start leading now. When he's only climbing 5.12? Jay
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shockabuku
Feb 26, 2012, 9:31 PM
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jt512 wrote: shockabuku wrote: Start leading now. When he's only climbing 5.12? Jay I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.
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eprex
Mar 3, 2012, 4:59 AM
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shockabuku wrote: jt512 wrote: shockabuku wrote: Start leading now. When he's only climbing 5.12? Jay I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8. I've seen some of the lead routes at my gym and they look pretty easy. There are a few that are pretty big holds straight up to the top. My schedule needs revamping though. I want to have a day where I can work grip, but I'm not sure 1-2 days is enough for recovery. I'm thinking climbing M,W,F and the gym (for legs and chest) on Sundays.
(This post was edited by eprex on Mar 3, 2012, 4:59 AM)
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shockabuku
Mar 3, 2012, 7:08 AM
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eprex wrote: shockabuku wrote: jt512 wrote: shockabuku wrote: Start leading now. When he's only climbing 5.12? Jay I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8. I've seen some of the lead routes at my gym and they look pretty easy. There are a few that are pretty big holds straight up to the top. My schedule needs revamping though. I want to have a day where I can work grip, but I'm not sure 1-2 days is enough for recovery. I'm thinking climbing M,W,F and the gym (for legs and chest) on Sundays. A M, W, F training schedule is pretty easily sustainable for most people. If you start to be chronically tired or sore, take an extra day off.
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jt512
Apr 16, 2012, 6:20 PM
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More spam.
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saint_john
Apr 16, 2012, 8:19 PM
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Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.
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shockabuku
Apr 16, 2012, 8:52 PM
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saint_john wrote: Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about. That might depend on how frequently you can manage to do it. Or other atypical achievements.
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fr4nkey
Apr 17, 2012, 9:23 PM
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ok but that book really works.
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jamesnater
Apr 19, 2012, 10:19 PM
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saint_john wrote: Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about. LOL
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