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Wade308
Sep 20, 2012, 4:26 PM
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Hi, super n00b here, sorry.
I've been watching a lot of climbing videos where guys are going for free climbing 1st ascents, many of them multi-pitch.
My question is: If you fall on a free climbing, do you have to go back to the beginning and start all over for it to be a legitimate send?
If so, does the same apply for multi-pitch, or would you just have to do that failed pitch again?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I didn't see it addressed anywhere and I'm really curious.
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wivanoff
Sep 20, 2012, 5:34 PM
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Wade308 wrote: My question is: If you fall on a free climbing, do you have to go back to the beginning and start all over for it to be a legitimate send?
Wade308 wrote: If so, does the same apply for multi-pitch, or would you just have to do that failed pitch again?
In both cases, some people will untie, pull down their rope and start over.
Once you've fallen, you've rested on your gear. And that's aid, not free.
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yanqui
Sep 20, 2012, 5:51 PM
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For long, difficult multi-pitch climbs it is generally accepted that the route has been free climbed if each pitch is separately free climbed without falls and not necessarily the whole route from top to bottom (e.g. Lynn Hill's "Free Nose"). However I think most would agree the best possible style would be a ground to top onsight. Hope that helps
(This post was edited by yanqui on Sep 20, 2012, 5:52 PM)
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madam
Sep 26, 2012, 6:05 AM
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Hi,
try to check:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms
search for on-sight, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
adam
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marc801
Sep 26, 2012, 1:52 PM
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madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
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madam
Sep 26, 2012, 1:56 PM
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well, this was just to complete the answer of the most used styles...
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petsfed
Sep 26, 2012, 2:38 PM
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madam wrote: Hi, try to check: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms search for on-sight, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. adam
That's been called a red circle.
Another archaic term is the yo-yo ascent: where you fall, lower all the way to the ground, but don't pull your rope so that by the end, you've toproped a significant fraction of the climb, even though your final attempt was done without falls.
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hyhuu
Sep 26, 2012, 2:42 PM
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marc801 wrote: madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.
I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.
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marc801
Sep 26, 2012, 3:13 PM
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hyhuu wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid. I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.
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wonderwoman
Sep 26, 2012, 3:21 PM
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marc801 wrote: hyhuu wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid. I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter. Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.
In that case, I am the master of aid climbing. I am soooo ready for The Nose.
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hyhuu
Sep 26, 2012, 4:25 PM
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marc801 wrote: hyhuu wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid. I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter. Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.
Since hangdogging doens't involve using gears for upward movement, I don't see how it fits the defintion of aid climbing. I'm certainly no expert but if it fits then so be it.
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curt
Sep 26, 2012, 6:08 PM
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hyhuu wrote: marc801 wrote: hyhuu wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope. That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid. I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter. Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics. Since hangdogging doens't involve using gears for upward movement, I don't see how it fits the defintion of aid climbing. I'm certainly no expert but if it fits then so be it.
The simplest explanation is that a legitimate free ascent requires the rope and gear to not be weighted at all.
Curt
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