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notapplicable
Apr 15, 2013, 9:11 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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majid_sabet wrote: JimTitt wrote: Maybe in Uzbekistan but in Europe 8īs are buried in the back of closets like everywhere else. Bet you guys still use donkeys as well. well,rest of the world aint Europe and few billion still live in Asia and I seen Europeans showing up on Camp 4 with 8 on their harnesses and may be these guys are still ridding horses .
This is Rockclimbing.com, not Walkingupsteephills.com
The 8 is all but useless in modern rock climbing applications.
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majid_sabet
Apr 16, 2013, 1:00 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Ruff_Dog wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Ruff_Dog wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Ruff_Dog wrote: Wow. Great post, to say the least. Long, informative. Right on. Do you have a specific band of Figure 8 you prefer, eg, Black Diamond, a Petzl-type one, etc? Or do you use a Rescue 8? The best 8 is the one that has a set of ears to one side and here is the link http://www.rescuesourcestore.com/...3dp84v5dihu71ddkwcp3 I had used the early version of this model and fall in love with it and since then, I had rap down 900 feet on a single 1200 feet rope along with so many other long distance rap and this is the king of all 8s. for $ 14 you can't go wrong. Thanks! Is it much smaller than the other? It says 'mini' and the other version on the site is almost $10 more. I have mini and its made for climbers. very small and light weight and price is right. The larger one is good for heavy work, long raps etc. Awesome! Thanks a ton. That's great. Now, how does the thing on the side work, because it only has one ear, compared to others having two?
The ear on the side is to lock off descent or add more friction by running the rope over it or under it. The beauty part of this ear to the side is that you can easily lock off with adding 1 twist and without using any stopper knot and the weight of the rope below automatically keeps the loop from untying itself off (assuming you got some rope below) so let's you are rapping down and wanted to stop half way , you just run the rope over the ear once or twice and you are completely locked off and when you undo it properly, you do not shock load the system . Also 8 can be used as rigging plates on anchors where you could attach several gear or ropes in to the big hole (used as master point) while little hole is secured to the main anchor. Most 8s are 25KN+ rated which makes them as strong as any common hanger and even stronger than biner cause there is no side loading effect on 8 to worry about. Again, most people who bitch about 8 and how obsolete and out of date 8s are ,have no clue how universal and handy this piece of climbing equipment is .
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majid_sabet
Apr 16, 2013, 1:04 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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notapplicable wrote: majid_sabet wrote: JimTitt wrote: Maybe in Uzbekistan but in Europe 8īs are buried in the back of closets like everywhere else. Bet you guys still use donkeys as well. well,rest of the world aint Europe and few billion still live in Asia and I seen Europeans showing up on Camp 4 with 8 on their harnesses and may be these guys are still ridding horses . This is Rockclimbing.com, not Walkingupsteephills.com The 8 is all but useless in modern rock climbing applications.
modern rock climbing ?
the only modern rock climbing piece of gear I see these days are the new G-string look alike harness you guys buy that are 115 grams.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 16, 2013, 1:10 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Apr 1, 2013
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That's awesome! Like, so amazing. If that works out, that's great. Thank you so much, Majid!
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 16, 2013, 4:33 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Apr 1, 2013
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majid_sabet wrote: Ruff_Dog wrote: That's awesome! Like, so amazing. If that works out, that's great. Thank you so much, Majid! Here are some photos on how you could use it on different settings, different load, rope size or in the tube type mode. in tube type or ATC rap mode [img]http://s9.postimg.org/uic42u0sv/PICT3034.jpg[/img] Smaller diameter rope or ATC tube type rap mode [img]http://s23.postimg.org/9txqqki63/PICT3035.jpg[/img] Regular size rope normal rap [img]http://s9.postimg.org/op2229p5b/PICT3037.jpg[/img] Fast style rap mode [img]http://s21.postimg.org/x0zjm7krr/PICT3036.jpg[/img] slow speed with heavy load [img]http://s12.postimg.org/9hjhpuxwd/PICT3041.jpg[/img] lock off (need 1-2 wrap on ear) [img]http://s14.postimg.org/65jl6r2nl/PICT3038.jpg[/img] Now let's see if these guys can show what they can do with their tube type rap devices
I dig it, man! I'm down for one, now. Thanks a ton for the pics. I have an ATC, and I'm now curious as to what you can do with it compared to the 8.
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JimTitt
Apr 16, 2013, 9:20 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002
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wivanoff wrote: JimTitt wrote: The grooves in an ATC give about 20% more friction over the non-grooved side, a normal 8 about 10% more. Rescue 8īs generally have extra `earsī to allow more turns and thus friction to be added. 8īs tend to twist the rope. Jim, where does a carabiner brake fit in with all of this? Or are there too many variables to predict? I have an 8 somewhere around here... used to use it with a Goldline BITD.
No idea, Iīve never needed to pull-test one and I donīt know of anybody else who ever has. You donīt see a lot in use these days though I occasionally put one above a Grigri if Iīm carrying a heavy load.
Like you say itīs going to be so variable with different numbers and types of karabiner it would be anyoneīs guess.
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