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crags
Feb 7, 2011, 7:18 AM
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I'm on a mission to find the place where great waves and walls meet.. and hopefully move there. Right now I consider myself intermediate at both and looking to advance.
I've done some reading about Central/South America and some of the Pacific Islands. I'm having trouble finding firsthand knowledge, especially on the climbing side.
Countries that have good surf but questionable climbing: El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica
Countries that have both but not sure how close the waves are to the walls: Ecuador, Peru
Hawaii: seems to be the best fit so far but would like to find some more options.
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enigma
Feb 7, 2011, 7:28 AM
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crags wrote: I'm on a mission to find the place where great waves and walls meet.. and hopefully move there. Right now I consider myself intermediate at both and looking to advance. I've done some reading about Central/South America and some of the Pacific Islands. I'm having trouble finding firsthand knowledge, especially on the climbing side. Countries that have good surf but questionable climbing: El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica Countries that have both but not sure how close the waves are to the walls: Ecuador, Peru Hawaii: seems to be the best fit so far but would like to find some more options.
Oregon on Route 1 has great surfing, I'm sure they're some boulders around
San Diego
Malibu
Thailand has great climbing, don't know about surfing
I have a very good thought, theres a a book
Rock and Road for U.S and has maps and alot of details.
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rockinadam
Feb 7, 2011, 7:41 AM
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Watch the bouldering movie called Spray. It has some Nor Cal spots on there you might like.
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atg200
Feb 7, 2011, 3:56 PM
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USnavy
Feb 7, 2011, 4:08 PM
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Hawaii, number one surfing destination in the world. Our climbing isint quite on par with our surfing, but the climbing we have is not bad if you like technical routes on basalt.
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bodyboarder
Feb 7, 2011, 4:57 PM
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Brazil
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crags
Feb 7, 2011, 4:57 PM
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Wow, Somoto Canyon looks interesting. I wonder if the government/locals would be irritated if some bolted routes got established since they declared it a national monument. I'll do some investigating.
Side note: did you do any climbing around Huarez, Peru?
Anyone have experience climbing on any of the southern Pacific Islands? (Samoa, Fiji, Cook, French Polynesia..)
Thanks for the help/advise.
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eswanson
Feb 7, 2011, 5:22 PM
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Puerto Rico. I went down there over New Years, there was some decent sport climbing on limestone outside of San Juan (Bayamón) and I heard from locals that there are spots scattered around the island (even a couple deep water solo spots). About 2 hours to the west of San Juan you've got Rincón, which is apparently good enough surfing to get a shout out in a Beach Boys song. Plus, if you don't speak Spanish, pretty much everyone in PR speaks English, and you don't have to change any money because they use the dollar. Might want to do some research there too.
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gmggg
Feb 7, 2011, 5:35 PM
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eswanson wrote: Puerto Rico. I went down there over New Years, there was some decent sport climbing on limestone outside of San Juan (Bayamón) and I heard from locals that there are spots scattered around the island (even a couple deep water solo spots). About 2 hours to the west of San Juan you've got Rincón, which is apparently good enough surfing to get a shout out in a Beach Boys song. Plus, if you don't speak Spanish, pretty much everyone in PR speaks English, and you don't have to change any money because they use the dollar. Might want to do some research there too.
+1
Surfing is awesome in PR and the climbing is surprisingly decent. You even have some short multi pitch options at Rosario in the southwest - pretty close to Rincon. Add to that good cheap food and no need for a visa.
Other than that South Africa sounds awesome, but I can't recommend it personally. Yet...
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altelis
Feb 8, 2011, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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crags wrote: I'm on a mission to find the place where great waves and walls meet.. and hopefully move there. Right now I consider myself intermediate at both and looking to advance. I've done some reading about Central/South America and some of the Pacific Islands. I'm having trouble finding firsthand knowledge, especially on the climbing side. Countries that have good surf but questionable climbing: El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica Countries that have both but not sure how close the waves are to the walls: Ecuador, Peru Hawaii: seems to be the best fit so far but would like to find some more options.
Hands down, South Africa. No questions asked.
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kachoong
Feb 8, 2011, 1:37 AM
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Sydney, Melbourne or Perth; Australia.
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nhodorek
Jun 3, 2013, 1:19 AM
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hey crags, just stumbled across your thread from 2011. are you still on this mission? I'm also on the same mission. I'm currently in Central America, working my way down trying to find climbing and surfing near each other. I started in El Salvador, great consistent waves but the closest good climbing is 1.5 hours inland. not too bad. there was a little bouldering on the beach and found some deepwater solo about 15 min from the beach. it's a good contender.
I'm currently in Nicaragua, I climbed the Somoto canyon yesterday, can't highly recommend the climbing there. it's nationally protected and not allowed to be bolted by anyone, access is not great, canyon is very wild, and the rock (at least what I climbed) is SHARP! I have more areas of Nicaragua to check out before heading to costa.
Panama may be a contender, as well as Colombia. Colombia has loads of great climbing and surfing, but I've never been there so I can't vouch for either. climbing there looks top notch tho, and you can get all blown out before your climb!! ha!! just kidding. Ive been to South Africa, travelled the country fairly well. Cape Town is a great city but as a intermediate surfer I can't say this would be your spot. the waves get HUGE and the water temps fluctuate rapidly from decent to ice freaking cold. it's also sharky. I didn't climb table mountain but Ive read it's nice, although bandits like to hide out on trails up and down table mountain and rob/kill tourists. I was there a week and an elderly German couple were murdered hiking up table mountain, all for 100 Rand or something ($14USD) if you do South Africa I'd suggest rural areas, the cities are too dangerous to enjoy as your longed for paradise spot. Im very interested in the suggestion of Puerto Rico. I've thought of the visa issue too. Cuba from what I hear from fellow travelers and climbers (and a spot on outdoor magazine) has some of the best limestone climbing in the world, and Puerto Rico I'd imagine has a similar geography. I bet your perfect spot is somewhere in Madagascar, but good luck finding it/getting there. Mada is the newest unveiling of climbing perfection, DWS, and waves. I spent 5 weeks there in 2006 but that was before I climbed OR surfed so I wasn't looking. kills me. downside is it's $2800 RT to get there from the states, but once there it's cheap, like ridiculous, lobster a cleaning lady (employ the locals!) and a house on the beach for $300/month cheap. So my suggestions are Panama or Colombia, El Sal has good potential. Mada would be sweet but it's just too far flung and the language barrier will be huge. let me know if you're still looking, what you've found, or if you even read this long ass message I just typed. pz!
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blazesod
Jun 3, 2013, 9:25 PM
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Chang Mai, Thailand - worth checking out.
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USnavy
Jun 4, 2013, 5:01 AM
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If you are going surfing you mind as well go for the best--Jaws Beach, Maui. It has the world's largest waves, up to 120'.
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