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rotf101
Aug 2, 2013, 12:06 AM
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Hello rockclimbing.com,
A friend and I are conducting some market research on how often people replace or resole their climbing shoes. Of course, this data by itself doesn't mean a whole lot, because it's super dependent on how often the owner climbs, how many pairs of shoes they own, etc. So, in addition to how often you guys resole or replace shoes, can you guys also provide info about how often / how much you guys climb, the number of pairs of shoes you guys have (and how much each pair is used), and what type of climbing you guys do?
If you feel like there's any other pertinent info, feel free to include it.
Thanks,
rotf101
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madam
Aug 2, 2013, 8:31 AM
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Hey rot,
Pair of shoes I have: 4 (2 of them I resole, 2 buy new) - I use them almost equally
Resoling Frequency: 2x / year
Climbing frequency: 2-3/week (winter more inside,otherwise outside)
Type of climing: winter: indoor, outdoor bouldering, summer: outdoor rock climbing
adam
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lena_chita
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Aug 2, 2013, 2:18 PM
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This would be best answered by making a short survey.
I have one pair of shoes in active use at any one time. And I replace them every ~8 months or so. I do not resole. I climb 2-3 times a week in the gym, and every other weekend outside, with approximately 3 weeks cumulatively per year spent on longer trips.
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rotf101
Aug 2, 2013, 7:02 PM
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Hey adam,
Did you just buy two pairs of shoes at a time? Resoling twice a year seems like you resole a little more often that most folks, but it also sounds like you climb a lot more.
rotf101
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rotf101
Aug 2, 2013, 7:10 PM
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Hey lena_chita,
I considered making a short survey initially, but I kind of wanted to leave the question a little open ended. Knowing how often people replace/resole shoes is useful, but it's also good to know why people choose to do either.
Every 8 months for replacement seems pretty reasonable. Is there any reason you choose not to resole?
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madam
Aug 2, 2013, 9:51 PM
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Hey rot,
well, not really...the shoes I buy I do not use that often -> are not damaged that early...usually the better shoes which I use only if I really want/"need":) The resoled shoes I usually use inside. For "outdoor" climbing it really depends how good they are resoled, since it might change the shape quite a lot...really depends on the resoling job. Here in Czech Republic we have basically two companies doing the job...sometimes its good to know which one does which shoes/brands better to get better outcome.
adam
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lena_chita
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Aug 3, 2013, 1:37 PM
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rotf101 wrote: Hey lena_chita, I considered making a short survey initially, but I kind of wanted to leave the question a little open ended. Knowing how often people replace/resole shoes is useful, but it's also good to know why people choose to do either. Every 8 months for replacement seems pretty reasonable. Is there any reason you choose not to resole?
I've had couple resole experiences that were less than ideal. While the quality of the job was great, I felt that the shoe shape changed a little bit, and made the shoes feel different.
I am usually able to get a good deal on the shoes I buy, so the price difference between resoling and buying a new pair is not that much.
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jeepnphreak
Aug 4, 2013, 3:47 AM
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I have two pairs of shoes,
1 muiras for harder single pitch climbing and 1 comfy pair of mythos for multi trad.
I usually resole each shoe once a year in the fall just as Ice season kicks in to gear, I get 3 maybe 4 resoles before the rest of the shoe is toast.
I climb 3-4 times a week, but it varies on other activities and mood.
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rotf101
Aug 4, 2013, 3:51 AM
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madam wrote: Hey rot, well, not really...the shoes I buy I do not use that often -> are not damaged that early...usually the better shoes which I use only if I really want/"need":) The resoled shoes I usually use inside. For "outdoor" climbing it really depends how good they are resoled, since it might change the shape quite a lot...really depends on the resoling job. Here in Czech Republic we have basically two companies doing the job...sometimes its good to know which one does which shoes/brands better to get better outcome. adam
That's interesting that you save shoes when you "need" them. Do you ever need to break in more aggressive shoes, or do you just tolerate it? I currently have 3 pairs of shoes (5.10 Coyote, La Sportiva Miura, Scarpa Vapor). I use the Miuras and Vapors for bouldering and the Coyotes for sport climbing, smeary routes, and sometimes just to warm up. I agree that resoling might change the shape of the shoe.
rotf101
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rotf101
Aug 4, 2013, 3:57 AM
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lena_chita wrote: I've had couple resole experiences that were less than ideal. While the quality of the job was great, I felt that the shoe shape changed a little bit, and made the shoes feel different. I am usually able to get a good deal on the shoes I buy, so the price difference between resoling and buying a new pair is not that much.
I guess if you can just get new shoes for almost the same price, it doesn't matter. What do you do with your old shoes?
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rotf101
Aug 4, 2013, 3:59 AM
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jeepnphreak wrote: I have two pairs of shoes, 1 muiras for harder single pitch climbing and 1 comfy pair of mythos for multi trad. I usually resole each shoe once a year in the fall just as Ice season kicks in to gear, I get 3 maybe 4 resoles before the rest of the shoe is toast. I climb 3-4 times a week, but it varies on other activities and mood.
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madam
Aug 4, 2013, 3:42 PM
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Hey rot,
yep, I really "save" shoes for the time when I need them. Why to use shoes in routes they are not suitable for (small footholds vs. smearing vs. big footholds etc. ) OR which are way below my maximum(?) If I climb some root I really wanna send then I try to use the best pair of shoes I have.
I am not really sure if I understand what you mean by "break in more aggressive shoes". I guess you mean if I bought some shoes really really small/painful and before being able to climb with them I had to "make them bigger" right? Yes I have done it severaly times...usually when I try some new model I do not already know otherwise I usually buy a precise size I know.
adam
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blazesod
Aug 5, 2013, 2:04 AM
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rotf101 wrote: Hello rockclimbing.com, <snip> how often you guys resole or replace shoes, <snip> If you feel like there's any other pertinent info, feel free to include it. Thanks, rotf101
I resole shoes once the shoe's lack of performance (sticky rubber) becomes the limiting factor to sending a route I would normally climb and when I have the resources to do so.
[time, transportation, and money]
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rotf101
Aug 7, 2013, 6:13 PM
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madam wrote: Hey rot, yep, I really "save" shoes for the time when I need them. Why to use shoes in routes they are not suitable for (small footholds vs. smearing vs. big footholds etc. ) OR which are way below my maximum(?) If I climb some root I really wanna send then I try to use the best pair of shoes I have. I am not really sure if I understand what you mean by "break in more aggressive shoes". I guess you mean if I bought some shoes really really small/painful and before being able to climb with them I had to "make them bigger" right? Yes I have done it severaly times...usually when I try some new model I do not already know otherwise I usually buy a precise size I know. adam
That's exactly what I means by "break[ing] in more aggressive shoes." Resoling makes the shoes a little tighter again, but not nearly as tight as when they were new.
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rotf101
Aug 7, 2013, 6:15 PM
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blazesod wrote: I resole shoes once the shoe's lack of performance (sticky rubber) becomes the limiting factor to sending a route I would normally climb and when I have the resources to do so. [time, transportation, and money]
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