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snoopy138
Feb 10, 2015, 5:40 PM
Post #104476 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Weekend update: Made semis again, and probably climbed my best the entire time in semis in France. Partially that I've been figuring things out about comp climbing and improving, partially because it was a lot more techy than burly (I can stay on holds better than I can pull off them). Still pumped out fairly early and fell off, but I got 17th place overall. Flew home yeaterday. Figure I was awake for ~23.5 hours, not counting the poor few hours of rest on the plane. Woke up at 4am this morning. Whoo-hoo jet lag! Back at work slogging away. It's been a rough day so far. we still need to know why chossy was livid. I put up a lengthy post is grupe.
durp. saw that.
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snoopy138
Feb 10, 2015, 5:42 PM
Post #104477 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.
it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.
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caughtinside
Feb 10, 2015, 6:53 PM
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No kidding. It's supposed to be 79 on Saturday here. Too hot for the new project. I'll get there early and hopefully get a second burn before the sun hits it.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 10, 2015, 8:24 PM
Post #104479 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.
But you don't REALLY appreciate it, without having something for contrast...
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camhead
Feb 10, 2015, 8:32 PM
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. But you don't REALLY appreciate it, without having something for contrast...
Like... how cold it was in the Hole when I was there?
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lena_chita
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Feb 10, 2015, 8:43 PM
Post #104481 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. But you don't REALLY appreciate it, without having something for contrast... Like... how cold it was in the Hole when I was there?
Heh...
I can't come up with anything snarky to say.
I am just so damned happy!!!!! OMG, finally! After weeks and weeks, I have cleaned up the contamination!!!!!
In unrelated news, my grad student has been gone for a week, on a trip to his friend's wedding in South America. Correlation doesn't equal causation, but... it totally WAS a grad student, right? 
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dr_feelgood
Feb 10, 2015, 8:46 PM
Post #104482 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.
Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?
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dr_feelgood
Feb 10, 2015, 8:47 PM
Post #104483 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. But you don't REALLY appreciate it, without having something for contrast... Like... how cold it was in the Hole when I was there? Heh... I can't come up with anything snarky to say. I am just so damned happy!!!!! OMG, finally! After weeks and weeks, I have cleaned up the contamination!!!!! In unrelated news, my grad student has been gone for a week, on a trip to his friend's wedding in South America. Correlation doesn't equal causation, but... it totally WAS a grad student, right?
Yup. He was wanking in your lab.
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 10, 2015, 9:23 PM
Post #104484 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.
What's the scoop on the co-op in New Paltz catching ablaze?
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 10, 2015, 9:27 PM
Post #104485 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?
It's going to be 78 here at the coast tomorrow. Currently it is 70 at the coast and 81 inland.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 11, 2015, 1:20 AM
Post #104486 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.
almost makes me feel guilty for having all the windows open. almost
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granite_grrl
Feb 11, 2015, 12:25 PM
Post #104487 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?
I'll send you some snow if you send us some mountains. After running around the Alps for the last couple of weeks I think I'd like to try skiing.
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granite_grrl
Feb 11, 2015, 12:32 PM
Post #104488 of 105309
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So now that I'm done with the Ice Climbing World Cup this year, I don't have to keep up the training on my tools for now. I'd like to give my ankle a break so I was thinking of starting up hang boarding during the week for now (will still be ice climbing/drytooling on the weekends for at least another month).
I never managed to get a super crazy good workout on the hang board, so until I was hoping to do two nights a week on the hang board and then climbing on the weekends. I should take another look at the Manderson book, but I'm thinking after a couple weeks of light hang boarding I would do hang board one night a week, and then hit strips one night.
I know I should try to come up with a proper training cycle, but I'm bad at that game and I don't have a lot of equipment or facilities available to me.
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camhead
Feb 11, 2015, 12:48 PM
Post #104489 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow? I'll send you some snow if you send us some mountains. After running around the Alps for the last couple of weeks I think I'd like to try skiing.
Pretty psyched on skiing now myself right now too, though it's pretty pathetic that I grew up in Yewtaw, but didn't really downhill ski until moved East.
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camhead
Feb 11, 2015, 12:50 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: So now that I'm done with the Ice Climbing World Cup this year, I don't have to keep up the training on my tools for now. I'd like to give my ankle a break so I was thinking of starting up hang boarding during the week for now (will still be ice climbing/drytooling on the weekends for at least another month). I never managed to get a super crazy good workout on the hang board, so until I was hoping to do two nights a week on the hang board and then climbing on the weekends. I should take another look at the Manderson book, but I'm thinking after a couple weeks of light hang boarding I would do hang board one night a week, and then hit strips one night. I know I should try to come up with a proper training cycle, but I'm bad at that game and I don't have a lot of equipment or facilities available to me.
If you've never gotten a good workout hanging bored, yore doing it rong. Speaking of limited facilities, lemme know if you need warmup beta for hangboreding.
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granite_grrl
Feb 11, 2015, 1:56 PM
Post #104491 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So now that I'm done with the Ice Climbing World Cup this year, I don't have to keep up the training on my tools for now. I'd like to give my ankle a break so I was thinking of starting up hang boarding during the week for now (will still be ice climbing/drytooling on the weekends for at least another month). I never managed to get a super crazy good workout on the hang board, so until I was hoping to do two nights a week on the hang board and then climbing on the weekends. I should take another look at the Manderson book, but I'm thinking after a couple weeks of light hang boarding I would do hang board one night a week, and then hit strips one night. I know I should try to come up with a proper training cycle, but I'm bad at that game and I don't have a lot of equipment or facilities available to me. If you've never gotten a good workout hanging bored, yore doing it rong. Speaking of limited facilities, lemme know if you need warmup beta for hangboreding.
I guess that's why I bring it up here. I do feel I get some gains out of what I'm doing, but I'm not pushing hard enough to see anything significant.
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camhead
Feb 11, 2015, 2:06 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: I guess that's why I bring it up here. I do feel I get some gains out of what I'm doing, but I'm not pushing hard enough to see anything significant.
That's why I like repeaters; they actually factor in a bit of the endurance aspect, and leave you feeling like you just got off a pumpy route at your limit by the end of the day.
The Manderson book will have better details, but the most important part of hanging bored is establishing your true failure point. Figure out how many reps you want to do (6 reps in a minute, each rep = 6 seconds hanging + 4 seconds rest), and then using the proper hold and/or weight added to get you to the failure point.
Failure point usually means that for the second or third to last rep, you start quivering and being REALLY tired. Then, for the very last rep, your fingers literally can't hold onto the edge. It might take a few seshes to gauge your failure point, but once you've got it, you can tailor all your workouts and weight additions to it.
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camhead
Feb 11, 2015, 2:13 PM
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More training tawk:
I'm actually skinning the bored hanging this time around. My finger strength is fine for the goals I have this season (actually am able to do seven second hangs on the Beastmaker monos!) , but my bouldering power is definitely not. I figured since I have access to three excellent gyms this month in NYC, I should just jump right into power in order to be best prepared for the March/April season. Mostly been doing just bouldering at my max, with one day a week of campusing.
This week has been the first that I really started seeing payoff. Am doing v7-8 pretty consistently at all the gyms, and it is nice to be able to hang with the cockroaches that are half my age, heh. I've started gradually moving into some PE, too; the new mega-gym (Cliffs at LIC, have you been there yet, Lena?) has really nice rope routes. The other day Karen and I were in there in early afternoon, it was pretty empty, and we got some great volume in; I think I did 15 pitches back to back, all of 11s and 12s.
Okey, end of spraydown.
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granite_grrl
Feb 11, 2015, 3:32 PM
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I feel like all the drytooling stuff I've been doing has made me stronger. Strength shouldn't be a big issue at my level of rock climbing this summer, but I need to improve my lock off for drytooling next year.
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 11, 2015, 3:40 PM
Post #104495 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. makes me feel guilty for having all the windows open. almost
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macherry
Feb 11, 2015, 7:31 PM
Post #104496 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow? I'll send you some snow if you send us some mountains. After running around the Alps for the last couple of weeks I think I'd like to try skiing. Pretty psyched on skiing now myself right now too, though it's pretty pathetic that I grew up in Yewtaw, but didn't really downhill ski until moved East.
that is pathetic. what's up with that!
no snow anywhere out west. we've had rain for the past week. it's craptastic
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snoopy138
Feb 11, 2015, 7:32 PM
Post #104497 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: No kidding. It's supposed to be 79 on Saturday here. Too hot for the new project. I'll get there early and hopefully get a second burn before the sun hits it.
yeah, going to be two hot in the santa monicas. will have to head elsewhere on saturday.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 11, 2015, 7:35 PM
Post #104498 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I guess that's why I bring it up here. I do feel I get some gains out of what I'm doing, but I'm not pushing hard enough to see anything significant. That's why I like repeaters; they actually factor in a bit of the endurance aspect, and leave you feeling like you just got off a pumpy route at your limit by the end of the day. The Manderson book will have better details, but the most important part of hanging bored is establishing your true failure point. Figure out how many reps you want to do (6 reps in a minute, each rep = 6 seconds hanging + 4 seconds rest), and then using the proper hold and/or weight added to get you to the failure point. Failure point usually means that for the second or third to last rep, you start quivering and being REALLY tired. Then, for the very last rep, your fingers literally can't hold onto the edge. It might take a few seshes to gauge your failure point, but once you've got it, you can tailor all your workouts and weight additions to it.
+1
I like manderson book a lot. But I feel like you should take it as a starting point and then modify a bit (they suggest that, too, and Iv'e had discussions with mark and Mike over specifics)
For example, I don't add weight in 10lb increments on all holds. On most holds, I do 7.5 lb between set 1 and set 2 (or set 1, 2, and 3, if you are doing the advanced one). But for the smallest holds I actually only go up 5 lb between sets 1 and 2. And from one session to the next, I go up by 5 lb, until I start getting a lot of failures, towards the end, and then I start increasing by 2.5lb.
Also, I used to do 7 reps of (7 sec on/3 seconds off) in set 1, and then 6 reps, with increased weight, of (7s on/3s off). This is what mandersons call "intermediate workout".
Last cycle, I tried going to advanced workout, and I just couldn't do 7 reps, then 6 reps, then 5 reps. because in order to pick weights that i would be failing on on the 3rd set, I ended up with way too light a weight on the first set of 7 reps, it didn't feel like a good workout. then talking to Banz, he suggested that instead of 7 reps, 6 reps, 5 reps, I do 6 reps, 5 reps, 4 reps. It seemed to work much better for me (this is what I did in this cycle). I feel like I was getting a workout even on the1st set, and failing by 3rd set.
I guess we will see how, and if, the results pay out. I just finished the last set on hangboard this week. Starting campusing and bouldering now. (scared... but excited, too)
For me, taking 3.5-4 weeks to do dedicated hangboard, instead of fitting hangboard with climbing is SOOOO worth it. I think you should do that, instead of hangboard once or twice a week between climbing. I had started on january 13th, and the only climbing I had done in the past 4 weeks was just a little bit of easy stuff to warmup, with the emphasis on not getting pumped.
Well, yesterday I got on a bunch of new routes, in the grade that I would have been able to do after couple tries, but maybe not on the first go, and it was like, wow, this route-setter used to set much harder, his routes seem so much easier now... oh wait, this 2nd route-setter routes have gotten easier, too. Oh wait, this 3rd guy also seems to be setting easier now...
It is possible that 3 different route-setters set 8 new routes, and graded all of them softer than they used to grade before, but maybe a likelier explanation is that I am just a little bit stronger.
And I get so much more psyched with the changing cycles, too...
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snoopy138
Feb 11, 2015, 7:35 PM
Post #104499 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. But you don't REALLY appreciate it, without having something for contrast... Like... how cold it was in the Hole when I was there?
teh only reason I wasn't GUd is because I saw that the next post was you and figured this is what you were posting.
same with teh whether we got when CI was down here.
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snoopy138
Feb 11, 2015, 7:36 PM
Post #104500 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes. I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already! No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off. it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update. Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?
do we haz any to zend ewe?
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