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kman
Jan 27, 2003, 2:23 PM
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Who here uses 5 mil cordalette for setting up their anchors? Right now I am using 8 but I find that it is too bulky so I am going to switch to something thinner.
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skloppen
Jan 27, 2003, 2:36 PM
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5mm sounds too thin to me. I've allways been told to go with 6 or 7mm. I use 7mm.
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fishypete
Jan 27, 2003, 2:40 PM
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8 mm!!! Wow - that is chunky!
This was a topic in which I was really interested, and I did quite a bit of research at one time.
Considering the breaking strain of the ropes, the configurations normally used, and the kinds of loads, it was finally "agreed" by many people that 6 mm was a good bet for "light" duty (i.e. non-hauling, good equalisation, no sharp edges etc etc) and that 7mm was the beefier, longer-living alternative for those people doing a lot of climbing, with heavy loads.
I saw one physicist prove mathematically that a 6 mm could be broken in case of poor equalisation such that only leg (i.e. two strands of rope) caught a factor 2 fall.
I personally have both 6 and 7 mm cordelettes - for me 5 is definitely too small (the wear over edges would just be too fast for my taste).
Hope this helps,
Fishy.
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jhwnewengland
Jan 27, 2003, 2:52 PM
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A lot of people use 5.5mm Spectra. The other most popular option is 7mm Perlon (regular stuff), as the others have said. If you want to really do some research, there are some sites that go over the differences, and they tend to agree that Perlon is better for Cordelettes. I use 7mm Perlon.
Jan
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kman
Jan 27, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Yeah...8 is pretty bulky. I think I will go with 6.
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mcfoley
Jan 27, 2003, 3:38 PM
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5.5mm spectra or 7mm perlon...
mf
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 3:59 PM
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use Maxim Tech Cord
5.5mm and strong as 8mm perlon
$20 a spool from http://www.gearexpress.com
(edit: snipped the part about being an 'asshead' if you use a continuous-loop vs. rabbit-ears configuration. turns out that Chris Harmston's numbers show a 40% decrease in strength for aramid fibers in such a configuration. d'oh. buy a rabbit runner.)
Personally I use spectra rabbit runners/web-o-lette style things but the Maxim cord is great for putting gunks tie-offs on old rigid friends, etc.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-27 15:29 ]
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alpnclmbr1
Jan 27, 2003, 7:35 PM
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Hey all
there is another thread on cordelettes with a lot of good information.
One point: DO NOT tie rabbit eared cordelettes out of spectra, the knots cause a 40%+ loss of strength in spectra.
see the other thread for the data
d
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kman
Jan 27, 2003, 7:58 PM
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I will remain an asshead and continue using a closed loop
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fitz
Jan 27, 2003, 8:07 PM
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FWIW, If you check some of the other threads on this subject, you'll find some xmission links with test results. Based on those, it appears that 7mm perlon may be a better all-around choice than some of the 5.5 super strong stuff.
-jjf
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jbrd528
Jan 27, 2003, 8:15 PM
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5.5mm spectra all the way.
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mauriceb
Jan 27, 2003, 10:17 PM
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You've probably seen this but this link is a very long discussion on cordelettes, usage, size, etc. Has links to other research stuff on the web
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=23745&forum=20&100
maurice
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 10:32 PM
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re: assheadedness:
Tech Cord ain't spectra.
But, bar tacks don't come loose and are really easy to thread through tunnels, icicles, etc. and that's why I don't have any CORD-alettes at all anymore for anchor usage. They're all retired to TR anchor-extension duty, rather than as power points.
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 11:28 PM
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Mmmm, re: assheadedness, I stand corrected.
Buy a bartacked rabbit runner ("Webolette" or "Equalizer" or "Alpine Anchor") or use a continuous loop afterall. jt512 sez so and he's citing Chris Harmston in the other thread.
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kirkbrode
Jan 30, 2003, 3:55 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
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I use a 5mm cordelette
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illimaniman
Feb 6, 2003, 12:53 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
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Please excuse my ignorance, but when people say they have 15 foot cordalettes, does this mean 15 feet of 7mm tied in a loop, or 30+ feet tied into a loop that now measures about 15 ft?
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