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iamthewallress
Feb 27, 2003, 8:43 PM
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It's almost March, which in CA means that the cold weather will soon be gone.
So which megaliths do y'all hope to top out on this year? It's been a slow week at work, so, please, inspire me! Spray in advance, and I promise that we won't hold you to any of it. This is more of a day dreaming type of thread than "The Big Announcement".
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camhead
Feb 27, 2003, 8:55 PM
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well, I just had to bail out of my planned trip to Zion next week, so it's a good thing that I did not make a big announcement concerning it. that said, I'm way anticipating a summer road trip in utah, colorado, and eventually to yosemite, so here goes (I'll stick to trad climbs):
-moonlight buttress in may. I really hope I finally get to do this
-something classic in eldo. I've never been there,
-my regular never ending wishlist at Indian Creek (Quarter of a Man, Spaghetti Western, maybe Lightening Bolt Cracks).
-Crack of Doom at City of Rocks
-and, finally.... big stretch, but this is a WISH-list... I would love to find someone competant to hit astroman with. I'm not sure if I would be up forr leading the whole thanng, but yeah.
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wishiwaswest
Feb 27, 2003, 9:29 PM
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Ya mean you need someone "competent" to do Astroman??? Did it a couple of years ago..my incompetent self along with my incompetent partner.... in the saddest, ugliest, hangdog style....but we made it :o Note to females who are...ummmm...well endowed.....tape 'em before you do the Harding Slot....just about suffocated in there!
Tahoe in a week or so...hope there's still ice somewhere...Yosemite end of April....no specific routes...whatever isn't wet....planning Denali in July...late..but can't get there any earler....see what routes still in any shape....DREAM...Chamonix...one day.....some day.....
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peas
Feb 27, 2003, 9:33 PM
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Since this is in the aid form, here is my aid ticklist.
On the Chief, I'd like to do the Sheriff's Badge and Expect Minor Falcon Delays. Maybe something on the Grand Wall too. I'd also like to finish off Wrist Twister. I may also be heading down to Yosemite this fall, but haven't drawn up a tick list for that trip yet.
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atg200
Feb 27, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Desert Shield in two weeks, maybe some other Zion routes as well.
Sundevil Chimney on the Titan, Paul Ross's new route on Texas Tower, Phantom Sprint on Echo Tower, and West Side Story on Cottontail Tower are the biggies in the desert I want to do this year.
Want to do W Face of Leaning Tower in Yose with my girlfriend, and something hard on El Cap in the fall.
Maybe repeat Copperhead's route the Hazing on the Kingfisher if I can find a machine shop to manufacture some mudbeaks in and I completely lose my grip on sanity.
Yeehaw. Zion on March 10th for the start of my wall season. Spray on everyone. We are all pulling on gear so this is just inspiring.
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atg200
Feb 27, 2003, 9:37 PM
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oh, and camhead is a puss for bailing on me for Moonlight Buttress in Zion next week. when will he learn walls are more important than school?
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mother_sheep
Feb 27, 2003, 9:48 PM
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Touchstone-End of March
Red Rocks - Spring Break
Eldo - Anthill Direct, Yellow Spur (Spring/Summer). . .What's the name of the highest route in Eldo? Its around the 5.8/9 range. That's a nice easy route on my list as well. The name escapes me. Anyone know?
The Needles S.D.: (Summer)
Ottos Route - Colorado National Monument
Castleton Tower - Moab: Just waiting for the weather to improve.
DEVILS TOWER. . .right Mike and Andrew? We're going!!!
This list will be forever growing.
and many many weekend trips to Shelf Rd.. . .my fav climbing gym!
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rockfox
Feb 27, 2003, 10:07 PM
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Devil's Tower, Wyoming.
:twisted:
You bet Trace. You were typing the same time as me and must have hit submit first. We are SO there.
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hans
Feb 27, 2003, 10:12 PM
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jen_c
Feb 27, 2003, 10:12 PM
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Tracyroach & Rockfox - Good luck with DT - it's an awesome place to climb. I was out there last year and climbed it and I'm planning on heading back again this year.
:)
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bishop
Feb 27, 2003, 10:21 PM
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everything under the sun
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yeti
Feb 27, 2003, 10:34 PM
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Mount Asgard.
I'll be working on Baffin Island next summer. I'd love to make it to the top of the mythical towers of Asgard. Still haven't found the partner yet...
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euroford
Feb 27, 2003, 11:03 PM
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the practice aid crack in the witchta mountains :)
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petsfed
Feb 27, 2003, 11:33 PM
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Satterfield's Crack - Vedauwoo
Yellow Spur - Eldo
Mount Rainier - Light, but at the same rate as everybody else.
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bandycoot
Feb 27, 2003, 11:41 PM
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My first bigwall... Either Half Dome or Leaning Tower! RAAAAaaaarrrrrr Must get psyched and TRAIN!
Josh
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iamthewallress
Feb 27, 2003, 11:44 PM
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I especially hope that everyone who want to do their first wall this season gets to make that tick in their book! It's an experience that I wish their was a way to keep having over and over....even the epicy parts. Good luck!
I like reading these....It's giving me ideas.
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bigwalling
Feb 27, 2003, 11:49 PM
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1. Clean ascent of Artifice at Index. It is about C4 and groundfall potential.
2. Get really fast and climb quite a few of the Chief's routes in a push style.
3. Climb El Cap
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rollingstone
Feb 28, 2003, 12:37 AM
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In an ideal world, this year I would climb:
Lurking Fear, El Cap (to get even for last year); the Heart Route, Mescalito, or maybe Tangerine Trip;
Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell in WA state;
East Face of Whitney, and one of the classic
Sierra traverses (like the Palisades);
Ptarmigan Ridge, South Tahoma Headwall, and the Wilson Headwall on Mt. Rainier...
but there is so little time... :cry:
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bigwalling
Feb 28, 2003, 1:02 AM
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I'd also like to get a clean ascent of Golden Arch at Index.
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climbsomething
Feb 28, 2003, 1:12 AM
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*The Nose
*East Buttress of El Cap (if I weenie out and grab a sling, it becomes aid, right?)
*a Zion trade route (enougnh to make me fill my pants but not kill me :) )
*Mt. Whitney by technical and non-technical means
*a Colorado 14er or 2 or 3 :)
Getting out of my sport zone, am I?? ;) :shock:
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jsj42
Feb 28, 2003, 2:11 AM
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Just wrote out my ticklist last week, so here it is...
Colorado/Eldo
DONE. Northwest Corner 11a
DONE. The Serpent 10b VS
DONE. The Center Route 11b
DONE. The Land of Ra 11a
DONE. Superslab 10d S
DONE. Climb of the Century 11c S
DONE. Jules Verne 11c S
Colorado/Boulder Canyon
DONE. Country Club Crack 11c
Colorado/South Platte
DONE. Wunsch’s Dihedral 11
DONE. Center Route 9+
Colorado/Black Canyon
DONE. Scenic Cruise 10d
Colorado/Indian Peaks
Lone Eagle 7
Colorado/The Diamond
DONE. Pervertical Sanctuary 11a
D7 11
Diagonal (Direct-Direct or Directagonal) 11 VS
Yellow Wall 11a S
Colorado/Spearhead
Age Axe 10b
Sykes Sickle 9
The Barb 10c
Colorado/Chief’s Head
DONE. Birds of Fire 11a S
Seven Arrows 10b VS
Colorado/Lumpy Ridge
DONE. Climb here tons! (~23 Pitches thus far)
California/Joshua Tree (if I can get out there)
DONE. Figures on a Landscape 10b
DONE. Room to Shroom 9
DONE. Solid Gold 10a
DONE. I Can’t Believe it’s a Girdle 10a
Such a Savage 11a
Utah/Castle Valley
DONE. Fine Jade 11a
DONE. North Face 11
DONE. Honeymoon Chimney 11
DONE. Holier Than Thou 11c
Salvation 11c
North Chimney 8
Utah/Fisher Towers
DONE. The Cobra 11 S
The Titan
Utah/River Road
DONE. Dolofright 11d VS
Iron Maiden 12a (unlikely)
DONE. Infrared 12a (even more unlikely)
Cooler Than Jesus 10-
Utah/Moses
Primrose Dihedrals 11+
Nevada/Red Rocks
DONE. Epinephrine 9
DONE. Prince of Darkness 10c
DONE. The Delicate Sound of Thunder 11 VS
DONE. Levitation 29
DONE. Dark Shadows 8-
Cloud Tower 11+ (maybe)
Fear and Loathing III 12a
Wyoming/Devil’s Tower
DONE. El Matador 10d
Yes, I'm for real. No, I haven't figured out if I'll need to quit my job or not. And yes, there are only two sport climbs on my list.
J.
Tracy: the climb in Eldo is "Gambit" it goes at 5.8 and is very, very nice.
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sierramike
Feb 28, 2003, 2:45 AM
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Tick list? Tick List? I just need to go climbing. Any climbing ('cept bouldering).
Wishiwaswest: There was ice at Lover's Leap a week ago...
Leaning Tower (West Face) is a great first wall route. Pain to get the bag across the catwalk, but the climbing is exposed, safe, and clean. Loads of rappels to get off.
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epic_ed
Feb 28, 2003, 3:29 AM
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Oh YEAHHHH! Nice thread and great inspiration. My tick list is to have fun, have some more fun, and then when I'm tired of having fun? Have a little more damn fun! :twisted:
Specifically, I'm heading to Zion a few times. Still looking for a partner for a weekend in late March/early April to do Space Shot. If not, then I'll be there for Memorial Day weekend. Options (other than Space Shot); Moonlight, Touchstone, or Prodigal Sun.
Yosemite in June for two weeks. First week, something on Washington Column -- S. Face, the Prow are likely candidates. Second week -- something on El Cap. I really wouldn't mind getting on a nailing route. The Shield, possibly? The Nose, Zodiac, Mescalito are also possibilities.
Labor Day weekend in Zion for something that is a step up from whatever I did in May.
Hope to cross paths with some of you! Have a blast!
Ed
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coldclimb
Feb 28, 2003, 4:08 AM
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hehe, it's already warm here in Alaska for some strange reason. This weather is unbelievable.
So far I've done the back of my house, and I plan to hit a whole bunch of rock at the Alaska gathering this June. Other than that, I haven't planned it out much. Gonna be fun though. :D
Edit: for some strange reason, although it tells me html is on, my code isn't working. Oh well, I guess if you care to see the pics, you'll have to copy and paste. :(
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climbingcowboy
Feb 28, 2003, 4:41 AM
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Climbing anything in Yos. since i havnt actually climbed there yet. And I HOPE to get on my first wall or even all day aid route, ANYBODY need a belay/hauling slave on a wall.
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