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climbingcowboy
Mar 5, 2003, 7:28 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
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I was pratcing with my brother aiding on lead with mostly micro nuts and hooks when I came to the traverse section, I was able to place a small alien (thank God) before this hook move. So I reached out left as far as I could to what looked like a good spot to hook to, I softly bounc tested the hook, I stepped out onto it stood there for a second and before I knew it I'm looking up at the alien holding on to my right aider loop. Thank God I remembered to hold onto the last piece to control my fall. So I think what I did wrong was when I leaned back to get my other aider I didnt have my hand on the hook and tilted it right off. Any tips or do I have the right idea??? Whats the best way to traverse onto a hoook with out blowing it?
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epic_ed
Mar 5, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I think Pete's section on "How to move up on aid without blowing it" has some hooking info, but I could be thinking of another post. I know we covered it somewhere the last few months. Here's the link:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=4212&forum=19&10
I'd search further but don't have the time right now. Give that a shot first.
Fun stuff, ain't it?! Every hook I've stepped on feel like it's going to blow. Guess I gotta do more to get comfortable...
Ed
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wallrat
Mar 5, 2003, 4:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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Well first thing, try not to reach too far out to do the move, though that's easier said than done. Wiggle the hook around just a bit to 'set' it, in case there's loose grunge under it's point. Ease onto it, and don't forget to keep your hand over it so it doesn't pop you in the eye. Don't worry, that creaking sound is normal, and you'll get used to it.
I'd suggest getting a wide range of hooks & sizes, if you're thinking about doing any walls, esp. Leepre points, and a big
Fish hook. Enjoy!
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spiffdog
Mar 5, 2003, 8:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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Ummmm why hasn't anyone mentioned the obvious yet? Don't bounce test hooks! The point of bounce testing is to ensure that the piece will hold if you leave it as pro. On occasion, difficult aid may require leaving a hook as pro, but 99 times out of 100, you bring the hook with you. Bounce testing a hook gets you no where but hanging from your last piece.
-Spiff
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climbingcowboy
Mar 6, 2003, 5:15 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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So I shouldnt softly bounce a hook to make sure it doesnt just pop of or the little flak nubbin doesnt just break? I dont mean hard like a pin or wire. I guess i just to get out there more.
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supertopoz
Mar 17, 2003, 2:31 AM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2003
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Yep! I think a little bounce or a tug is a good idea and Mr Piton says the same. :!: Hope never held a hook, but a really hard tug on you piece might blow it.
Testing will keep your mind clear :o , blind faith will see you hanging on you last piece. As for traversing try and keep you aiders hanging straight below your hook the same with you daisy as you move across.
It's the same when you move up on a hook keeping all weight downwards will go a long way to keeping that hook good.
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