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calpolyclimber
Apr 2, 2003, 7:49 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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I am just curious what communication you guys all use while climbing. Me and my buddy have kindof formed our own commands and checking procedures, but I thought it would be interesting to how you all communicate.
Also, when we were climbing North Overhang (I think I'll start calling it "wind tunnel") in J Tree last week with gail force winds it got me wondering if most people have established non-verbal, non-visual commands. Since we were doing the route in two pitches, we decided at the bottom that 3 tugs on the rope by the leader would mean the anchor was built, and the leader was off belay, and 4 tugs by the leader would mean the follower was on belay, ready to clean the lower anchor and climb. What do you all do?
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enigma
Apr 2, 2003, 8:18 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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In reply to: I am just curious what communication you guys all use while climbing. Me and my buddy have kindof formed our own commands and checking procedures, but I thought it would be interesting to how you all communicate. Also, when we were climbing North Overhang (I think I'll start calling it "wind tunnel") in J Tree last week with gail force winds it got me wondering if most people have established non-verbal, non-visual commands. Since we were doing the route in two pitches, we decided at the bottom that 3 tugs on the rope by the leader would mean the anchor was built, and the leader was off belay, and 4 tugs by the leader would mean the follower was on belay, ready to clean the lower anchor and climb. What do you all do?
Hmmn, Usually we decide before we're actually climbing, yes and once and a while yell-(oh but I hate that-makes my throat sore ):( some people use walkie talkie, but hardly necessary with a short climb.
Hmmn I adored that climb, quite a bit of fun-N.Overhang-good choice.
"Communication Breakdown its always the same, ......drive me insane"-Robert Plant
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calpolyclimber
Apr 2, 2003, 8:32 AM
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I should clarify actually, we ended up doing Overhang Bypass, because the wind was ripping around the lip of the overhang so fast it was pretty sketch. I built my belay, and the wind was flapping me around hanging from it, it wasn't very comfy. At least the rest of the week was nice weather. Joshua Tree seriously knocked me off my feet, it was AMAZING. We got to climb some amazing routes like Ball Bearing, Bird on a Wire, Prepackaged, and many others. I didn't know I could lead 10a's, but I guess my overall stoked-ness about being there seeped into my climbing. I need to go back there... soon...
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straightedgeteen
Apr 2, 2003, 2:29 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2002
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Me and my partner are going to buy walkie talkies that have head sets so on a bad day (wind) or problems occur that we will have each other
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dekenstructor1
Apr 2, 2003, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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my main communication up front is something like: "if i fall, you better friggin' catch me"
when i am up, if my body communicates falling, then (s)he (i.e., my partner) communicates concern and safety by stopping said fall
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quickclips
Apr 2, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
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My partner and I have some none verbal comunication. Its nice for when the wind picks up or there is a lot of distance between us. But we should probly work on none visual communication. Right now we use arm signals for things like resting, ready to ride, etc. I think its helpful.
Chris
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w6jxm
Apr 2, 2003, 5:07 PM
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Leader "I'm such a dumbass." Follower "Is that anchor done yet?"
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alpinerockfiend
Apr 2, 2003, 5:14 PM
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Whistling loudly can actually cut through the wind very well.
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dingus
Apr 2, 2003, 5:18 PM
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With my main and steady partners, silent rope tug signals are the mainstay of communication. Several strong (I use 5 so there IS no mistaking it) tugs, and I mean vigorous, when off belay and 5 more when it's back on. It's that simple. I trust my partners to take care of everything else. They'll climb when they are ready.
We gain a great deal of satisfaction through silent climbing at crags both wilderness remote and sport crag crowded. Everyone else is all "ON BELAY! WHAT??? ON BELAY!!! WHAT??? ON!!! BE!!! LAY!!! WHAT?" And we're all about " ." That's nice. and it pays in spades on wandering long routes, on windy days, etc etc.
Radios are sure nice for wall climbing, and keeping track of back country ski partners.
DMT
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stonefiend
Apr 2, 2003, 6:40 PM
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"faahhhQ!!"
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neomagi
Apr 3, 2003, 2:52 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2003
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with my two main partners, we have silent command. 2 long pulls and releases means off belay by the leader, then they pause and start taking in rope. 3 small tugs means that the leader has climber on belay. we use the small tugs to mean this, as normally the leader is constantly giving small tugs to keep the rope up.
we just got radios, but i don t know if we will ues them.
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