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hooker
Apr 22, 2003, 11:01 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 173
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Traveling 5.10 leader will be in New Paltz/GUNKS this thurs to mon.
Looking to hook up for a tour of classics including, but not limited to:
Broken Sling
Nosedive
Simple Suff
Ant's Line
Stirrup Trouble
Transcontinental Nailway
Directissima
Doubleissima
Birdcage
MF
Try Again
Any one interested ?? PM and we can exchange details....
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maypop
Apr 22, 2003, 11:13 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2003
Posts: 29
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Can't make it, but if you are going to the Nears to do Birdcage you should hit Elder Cleavage and Fat City Direct too.
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hooker
Apr 22, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 173
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I'd love to....I just need a belayer/punter !? :?
actually been on Elder Cleavage...that last pitch is quite the biz for the grade, no? Same with Fat City.....is our old rusty friend (piton) still hangin' near the crux?
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piton
Apr 23, 2003, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
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hey punter, punter
stick to an area. mac wall - something intertsting, higher standard, birdie party, mf, try again, graveyard shift, overhanging layback.
high e area- keep on strutin, cck direct, moonlight, erect direction, modern times, directissma, doubleissma.
nears- criss cross, broken sling, inverted layback, alphonse, birdland, birdcage, roseland, elder cleavage.
have fun, hope the weather is ok.
punter i see you punter
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danl
Apr 23, 2003, 2:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 288
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While you are doing nose dive take a lap on retribution and just down the carraige road is apoplexy.
Stirrup trouble is a must do and while you are there pick up p-38.
After simplestuff don't forget both pitches of falled on account of strain. and that other classic the slime its a very nice dihedral.
then feast of fools and while not very safe nurses aid is a mega classic.
If you are feeling burly get on Ridiculissima its a 3 star classic with sustained 10a jug hauling up the same wall
wedgetables and tennish are also great climbs down at the far end of the cliff
hit as many climbs in an area as you can per prior suggestions
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hooker
Apr 23, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 173
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Danl
Piton
thanks for the recommendations. I must admit to having lead all the routes you have mentioned, as I have lived and climbed at the Gunks for almost 20 years.
Nurse's Aid is not that scary. Just a few 5.9 moves that are a little thin. Those solid at 5.10 usually have no issue with it. The roofs to its right on the other hand (Supper's Ready) is another story.
With the limited time I have to visit, it would be nary impossible to hit all the mega classics.....
Total agreement on the Mac wall. I'm hopin to get on Tough Shift and probably slide on over to hit one of my all time favs Welcome to the Gunks
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danskiz
Apr 23, 2003, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 62
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In the voice of Homer Simpson... Fat City Direct, Mmmmmmmmm. This is in my opinion the most spectactular 5.10 I have done at the gunks. It's intimidating from the base, but soooo nice, especially the top half.
And yes that old pin is still hanging in there.(as of the end of last year)
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hooker
Apr 23, 2003, 7:46 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 173
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still searchin.....
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