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singlespeed
May 15, 2003, 9:27 AM
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Registered: May 15, 2003
Posts: 13
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Hola, I have a nice 800' granite wall about a 5hr walk from my house. it hasn't been climbed and I am gonna have a go at it. I have plenty o' alpine/trad/sport experience, but minimal aid. I have been solo aiding a few of the small lines in town and have aided pitches on some big walls in AK...but mostly free climbed em. So, I am going to climb this wall solo and was wondering what you experienced folks would take along for gear. Oh and if you are wondering the reason it hasn't been climbed (other than the fact that I fell into a creek on the way to climbing some ice on it this winter :roll: ) is that we average 5' of rain a year.
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brutusofwyde
May 16, 2003, 2:52 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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What angle, what do the cracks look like, what is the quality of the rock?
Without this info, my following suggestions are useless:
4-5 KBs
4-5 LAs
5 heads
2 ea baby angles
2 std angles
1 sawed 7/8"
Belays -- will you need bolts?
Wisk broom
wire brush
helmet
safety goggles
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glockaroo
May 16, 2003, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
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In reply to: ...was wondering what you experienced folks would take along for gear...
This reminds me of one of the best sections in the Long/Middendorf book: the scene in the cafeteria where the aspiring FAist gets told "...but I didn't have to ask anyone how to do it".
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copperhead
May 16, 2003, 5:19 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
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Everything.
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rollingstone
May 16, 2003, 5:59 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 273
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Large umbrella
Neoprene wet suit
Bear rifle
.357 handgun (or larger), in case bear gun does not work...point pistol at self and beat the bear to it...it will hurt less. :P
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bandycoot
May 16, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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My friend managed to bag a big wall first ascent in Malaysia. He originally went at it trad/aid style but was repulsed by an overhung granite section that was really blank. He bailed and returned I believe over a year later with bolting/rivet gear to get through that section. I wouldn't expect to get up it in one day if I were you, especially since you will be working alone which is slower. Go out there with minimal gear and see how far you get! Then return with more of what you need later! If it's only a walk from your house, you're not lacking in opportunities to go out there. This isn't a one try deal. I might buy a haulbag that is waterproof, and store gear out there so that I wouldn't have to hump it back and forth!
Good luck!!!
Josh
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philbox
Moderator
May 16, 2003, 9:25 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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Having been there and done that I can speak with some authority on this subject. Take everything. We looked up from the bottom of this wall and decided that we did not need big gear. How wrong we were. Being that the wall is a completely unknown factor you will need every bit of gear you can lay your hands on plus more. Do make sure that you take some bolts with you and don`t skimp on how good you make the belays and rap stations. For this effort you should do some preliminary carry ins of gear and also to scope out the lower sections of the wall, more or less tentative sallies up to determine what the initial climbing will be like. We used the prelims to establish camp and drop food.
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singlespeed
May 16, 2003, 10:41 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2003
Posts: 13
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Lets see,
Bomber vertical granite. Bolt kit, check. Preliminary scouting, check. Every piece of gear I own, check. Hideous 3,000' devil's club nightmare haulbag scramble to the rock, check. Done with the masters degree so I can go and climb it...not just yet. Good weather, ???. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Cheers!
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dingus
May 16, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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Jeez, yer getting some incomplete advice here (at least from what I saw), even from my Master BOW. Let's see if I can snatch a pebble!
Add the following to your kit:
2 qt.s whiskey (I surmise you're 'up north.' Change to tequila if a more southernly bias is sought)
1 large sack of green nugs
4 bic lighters
Never forget these essentials!
DMT
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melonhead
Jun 9, 2003, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
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Dude,
Bring like 100 #1-#2 heads. A whole bunch of RURPS, and a nice selection of hooks. While you're at it you might as well bring a loaded gun and hold that to your head the whole time you're on lead! :shock: I second "Dingus" on the nice green nugs too.
Go have fun man.
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tyify
Jun 9, 2003, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 905
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And if your going to use a .357 for bear protection file off the front sight so it won't hurt so much when he sticks it up your ass.... :P
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marcel
Jun 9, 2003, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 523
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Hey Singlespeed,
I see you live in Juneau. Go see Matt at the Rock Dump Climbing Gym. He knows the guys that have done lots of the major big stuff in your area. Seek out advice from those that have been on the rock near Juneau.
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