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simzboardr
May 22, 2003, 5:57 PM
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Is it just me or does it help a sh*t load to have some or alot of enginuity in you to be an aid climber. Everything about it has some sort of Physics and simple engineering in it. Any of you guys engineers.
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prowsolo
May 22, 2003, 6:17 PM
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Being a mechanical engineer really helps when it comes to aid climbing.
If you can draw free body diagrams, and know what mohrs circle is
you are well on your way to climbing at least A3.
Engineers know how to develop a Big Wall Bag of Tricks.
Solo aid climbing is the real fun stuff/
I soled this route in Yosemite called the PROW, it was
alot of fun.
I learned to aid climb at Stoney Point driving aid pins into
a climb called Sandblast.
Peace and Love
Prowsolo
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atg200
May 22, 2003, 6:19 PM
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and batten comes to rc.com...
the end is near
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russwalling
May 22, 2003, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: Is it just me or does it help a sh*t load to have some or alot of enginuity in you to be an aid climber. Everything about it has some sort of Physics and simple engineering in it. Any of you guys engineers.
In order of importance:
1. Sack (sorry Batten......)
2. getting an A in autoshop in High School
3. being a mechanical engineer with #1 above
4. Having a surface knowledge of freight handling
5. knowing what F=ma is before your 300ft ripper
The rest is just luck, and not being a 300 to 1 shot before you go up.... do the WF of LT dude.... sound advice.
Russ
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epic_ed
May 22, 2003, 6:50 PM
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Hey, if Russ is giving you 300:1 odds, you might want to listen up.
I've found that problem solving skills are the single most important factor in a successful aid climb. Seeing as how I have very small "units", it's doubly as important. I'm hoping to grow a pair real soon, though. I think size of sack is directly proportionate to what you have actually done, and isn't at all related to what you think you have (or say you have) when you leave the ground. Balls are earned by working through the fear. You get a bigger pair after each battle/problem solved/wall summitted.
Ed
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peas
May 22, 2003, 7:22 PM
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I'm a physicist and I find that a basic knowledge of physics is useful for a lot of climbing scenarios. Quantum mechanics hasn't come in useful for aid climbing yet, but then I've never met Chongo or read anything he has to say about it. Out of curiositiy, what the heck is a mohrs circle.
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wigglestick
May 22, 2003, 7:33 PM
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I once took a mechanics of materials class and had to draw Mohr's circles. And for the life of me I never understood exactly what I was doing. It has something to do with calculating the principal stresses on a really small element. I just followed the instructions and gave my answer never really understanding what it all meant. I guess that means I can only climb A2+.
http://physics.uwstout.edu/strength/special/spec85.htm
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timpanogos
May 22, 2003, 8:00 PM
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After another solo attempt at WF LT and a successful partnered climb of the Prow on Washington Column - the subject title should be - Aid Climber, Engineer or Masochist
Masochistic part is approach/descent - especially on the two routes listed, was by far the hardest part of the climbing!
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glockaroo
May 22, 2003, 8:09 PM
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Middendorf said it himself in the A5 Big Wall Tech Manual, the precursor volume to his collaboration w/ Long. Something along the lines of "engineering types typically do well from the start".
You've got to A) be able to effectively solve problems and B) be willing to bust your hump implementing the solutions. Kind of like being an engineer with a good work ethic (re: Russ' "shipping dock with no floor").
The "sack" element is often discovered or enhanced by the failures of early attempts and the clarified perception won through early successes. The irony is that this enhancement comes from an awakening of the mind and the more reasonable responses to fear. As in other areas of life the "sack" is actually in your mind. The truly successful wallclimber is he who has learned, and then mastered himself. I like Long's statement from the M/L book: "strung taught between desire and fear".
---"You have to let it all go, Neo. Fear, doubt, and disbelief. Free your mind."---
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flying_dutchman
May 22, 2003, 8:35 PM
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"If you can draw free body diagrams, and know what mohrs circle is
you are well on your way to climbing at least A3. "
damn, mabe that free body diagram stuff in class is more beneifical then i ever thought; i always figured my instructor was just trying to pull my arm there... Mabe now i will be encouraged to study and acutally pass.
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calamity_chk
May 22, 2003, 9:56 PM
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I have a degree in English. Does this mean that I'll never lead A3?
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epic_ed
May 22, 2003, 10:20 PM
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Not necessairly, but you will be able to write a much better trip report.
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bukel
May 22, 2003, 10:24 PM
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The mohr´s cirlce is a method to find the maximum and minimum stresses in a certain piece where you have different loads in different direcctions. When you find the maximum stress you can look for a material that can handle it and wont break. the method is a litle old but it works, there are other methods that I prefer but you usually use none of them and use a special software to help you design stuff.
Hope it solved your curiosity.
:wink:
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peas
May 22, 2003, 10:57 PM
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Thanks bukel, but I don't think I'll be using that next time I'm aiding. Bounce testing pieces is probably a more effective way of determining whether a piece will hold or not, unless you're really a BWT and just want to calculate whether the piece will hold.
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calamity_chk
May 22, 2003, 11:41 PM
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hahaha -- that is *perfect*
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djrockandice
May 23, 2003, 6:20 AM
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USed to be an engineering student back in the day, then I discovered functional anatomy, which applies physics to the study of body motion (like kinesiology). After teaching for a while I went into medical research. I got into aid climbing b/c it appealed to my technical side.
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atg200
May 23, 2003, 2:09 PM
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that picture rules. add a slide ruler too and it would be complete.
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bukel
May 23, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I agree, it does not help you to climb at all. it is just for design. :D
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ambler
May 23, 2003, 5:03 PM
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In reply to: Is it just me or does it help a sh*t load to have some or alot of enginuity in you to be an aid climber. Everything about it has some sort of Physics and simple engineering in it. Any of you guys engineers.
So, how went the (NH) Prow?
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addiroids
May 24, 2003, 4:37 AM
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In reply to: I have a degree in English. Does this mean that I'll never lead A3?
I thought Andrew wore the hooks and beaks in the relationship.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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calamity_chk
May 24, 2003, 1:43 PM
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hahaha. touche.
though, i'm amped to learn more aid so that i can take the sketchy leads -- i cant let him have all the fun. besides, we have a pretty kick-a$$ partnership, neither one of us is willing to be the designated jugbunny.
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simzboardr
May 26, 2003, 4:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Is it just me or does it help a sh*t load to have some or alot of enginuity in you to be an aid climber. Everything about it has some sort of Physics and simple engineering in it. Any of you guys engineers. So, how went the (NH) Prow?
Didn't do it yet...due to massive amounts of rain, every day of the weekend. Of course it gets sunny on monday then rains thurs thru sunday. ehh gotta get up there soon though
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