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antimatter
May 29, 2003, 4:38 AM
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I've done a few short cracks and would like to continue practicing some aid before getting on a wall.
I was thinking of something at Tahquitz/Suicide (clean of course, without any nailing). It would be nice to get on something hard that most likely no one will be waiting for. And I'd like to get some practice in on traverses/roofs. I free climb about 5.10 but would prefer to concentrate on aiding. Any recommended (typically free) climbs?
Also, any ideas for an area to practice nailing/heading in So Cal?
Thanks.
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moabbeth
May 29, 2003, 4:50 AM
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How about Woodson? I'm about to learn aid climbing and my boyfriend is taking me down there to teach me.
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climbingcowboy
May 29, 2003, 4:52 AM
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Hey Marc I havnt done anything at Taqutiz yet but I have gone down to Mt Rubidux(sp?) and that was cool not really any nailing but fun stuff and there is Riverside RockQuarry that has nailing stuff and runs like around
2-3 pitches that is pretty much a designated aid place havnt checked it out though since I dont have any pins. One other place closer to us is Point Mugu all clean only like 30 feet high but lots of little cracks to use smaller stuff on, and has a really fun traverse. When you want to hook up?
check out http://www.bigwall.com and find the Socal aid guide.
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antimatter
May 29, 2003, 4:55 AM
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Yep, I was thinking about Woodson too. Probably a great bet and I'm sure PBJOSH can give me a ton of recommended climbs.
I'm still interested in knowing about other possible areas though if anyone has any suggestions. Something taller than Woodson would be nice too, I'd like to get a full pitch.
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antimatter
May 29, 2003, 5:05 AM
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Ok, checked out the info for Riverside Rock Quarry, it sounds pretty good. I don't have any pins/heads yet either but I am planning to start a nailing rack.
Point Mugu: I could do that after work sometime, especially with the longer days. I'm booked this week but how about next WEDS?
You've got weekdays off right? We should head out to Riverside for a day when it's not too baking hot.
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moabbeth
May 29, 2003, 5:36 AM
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Is Riverside Rock Quarry the same as Big Rock? I heard Big Rock is a good place to learn trad too....it's similar to Woodson.
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kalcario
May 29, 2003, 5:41 AM
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The Pirate at Suicide, I've coached a few aid noobies up that one...
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pbjosh
May 29, 2003, 7:12 AM
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I second the Pirate. Probably won't have to compete with free climbers either, heh.
For pins check out www.gearexpress.com for deals and/or order internationally. It's f*cking criminal to charge $16 or whatever the US retail is for a beak but BD does it anyway. A postage stamp worth of steel and a swaged loop of trigger cable. $16. Yeah, right.
Big Rock sucks the dog's nuts in terms of trad or aid climbing and has nothing on Woodson. It even sucks the dog's nuts in terms of what it has - polished low angle face climbing in a red-neck setting.
josh
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socalclimber
May 29, 2003, 1:10 PM
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I'll third the Pirate. Good route to learn aid on!!! As far as the Riverside Rock Quarry is concerned. That rock is way EXPANDO :shock: You might want to find someone with experienace to go with you. Also, the 'hood' is not to great around there. Be careful. It will probably be pretty hot out there during the summer.
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spike
May 29, 2003, 2:29 PM
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I was practicing aid climbing at Riverside Quarry 2 months ago and got kicked out. Kirkland Properties is trying to sell the property for the owner. A guy in a jeep pulled up and said he would have my truck towed if I didn't get off the wall. They have also closed most of the access roads to get into the area. Kirkland Properties has a web site, maybe you can ask for permission to climb but I don't think they are very receptive.
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tigerbythetail
May 29, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Check this website -
www.bigwall.com and click on the So Cal Aid Climbing Guide
As others have said go clean aid some cracks to get your techniques/systems down and learn to know what you can trust.
Paisano Overhang at Suicide would probably be a fun and exposed roof crack to aid and I hear there are huge roofs to aid or free climb in some parking structures...
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rockmx
May 29, 2003, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: Is Riverside Rock Quarry the same as Big Rock? I heard Big Rock is a good place to learn trad too....it's similar to Woodson. |
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jt512
May 29, 2003, 4:10 PM
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In reply to: I was practicing aid climbing at Riverside Quarry 2 months ago and got kicked out. Kirkland Properties is trying to sell the property for the owner. A guy in a jeep pulled up and said he would have my truck towed if I didn't get off the wall. They have also closed most of the access roads to get into the area. Kirkland Properties has a web site, maybe you can ask for permission to climb but I don't think they are very receptive.
When you told me about that I got the impression that that incident was sort of random. Have you been back? Is it an ongoing problem?
-Jay
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jt512
May 29, 2003, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Is Riverside Rock Quarry the same as Big Rock? I heard Big Rock is a good place to learn trad too....it's similar to Woodson. Big Rock is a Sport Climbing Area...
I find it hard to think of Big Rock as a sport climbing area. It's just too slabby and the old routes too runout. It's not a bad place to get a feel for leading that kind of stuff though. Additionally, there are some easy gear leads there and IIRC there are a couple of 2-ptich routes that necessitate building equalized belay anchors. However, it's way too hot there this time of year. Maybe you can get a couple of hours of climbing in in the early morning or late afternoon, but for most of the day the rock bakes in the sun. Officially, it was 105 degrees yesterday in Riverside.
Wrt the Riverside Quarry, I have only been there once -- to practice aid. It was shady that day, but I don't recall which way the walls face. Spike is the local Riverside Quarry expert. If you need beta, he's your man.
-Jay
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climber1
May 29, 2003, 5:57 PM
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there is the top rope wall at Horse Flats in the Angeles National Forest. there is a 5.11 crack that you can aid. there is also another area in the same general area. as we want to keep this area kind of quiet, pm me and I will give directions there is also Mt. Pacifico in ANF. all these areas are at the 6,000' level, but Pacifico can get hot.
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addiroids
May 30, 2003, 5:52 AM
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Yeah, the Riverside Rock Quarry looked like a scary place. I hiked up to it and on the way passed all kinds of 3rd world artifacts like panties from raped chicks, full on burned out cars (hide the evidence), and just a ton of other stuff that quickly makes you think you went to the town dump rather than a climbing area. Definately have a few of your fellow "homies" at the base with AK's to guard your belayer.
The X cracks on the back of Tahquitz go at 5.8 A4 and 5.6 A2 with most of the heads fixed last time I was there. Another vote for The Pirate on Suicide too. That was a fun splitter seam to practice nutting.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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