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rockinrobby
Jun 7, 2003, 2:22 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2002
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I have two sets of BD stoppers down to #5. I don't even feel safe falling
on it. I was reading an earlier forum about falls people took on small
swedges. So, My question is " are BD swedges stronger than than the small BD stoppers of equal size?" Also, how small would you go for 180 lb. person. I'd like an answer from someone who has used them trad.
Thank-You, Rob
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socalbolter
Jun 7, 2003, 2:36 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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there are so many variables involved here.
the main integrity of the piece (regardless of size) is based on the quality of the placement and the solidity of the rock around it. this could end up being a huge thread with random tangents going in many directions, but here's the bottom line:
i've done alot of trad climbing and thin crack and seams have always been my favorite lines. as such, i've placed and fallen on stacks of small stoppers and RP's. the strength of the swage itself is going to depend on the manufacturer and the size of swage used. usually the swage strength is comparable to the strength of the wire cable used with it. the point of weakness on any of the smaller stopper styles is the wire itself. i've blown wires before as have most climbers who have really pushed it on tiny stoppers, but i've also had some incredibly small (#1 and #2 old chouinards) hold shorter falls. when in doubt multiple placements can be equalized, and you obviously don't want to run it out too far if the gear is small or you're not confident on the terrain.
the same questions apply to small cams. i recently freed a thin dihedral crack using #2 wild country zero cams. technically they are intended for aid use only, but i fell onto them a few times and they held just fine.
hope that helps.
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rockinrobby
Jun 7, 2003, 3:00 PM
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this question is also based on a review in Rock & Ice or Climbing mag
that gave BD swedges an "A". and they said how tough made they were. I'm sorry I can't remember the issue, and I'm not home to look it up. Perhaps I should ask BD and get back to all and report my findings. I agree with your statement; it does matter greatly on the placement and
the rock. I referring more to construction of the piece. after all they
constructed differently. But why? Does it make stronger?
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sheldonjr
Jun 8, 2003, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
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Robby,
In response to the pros and cons of different types of nut construction. The difference between a micro and a standard nut is the way the wire is attached. Standard nuts are swaged, where micros are soldered into the head. Swaging involves crushing a sleeve of metal around two wires to hold them together, while this process weakens the wire, it's not an issue with larger wires. When you get into the micro nuts, soldering is pretty much standard. Soldering is a more expensive process, but it maintains wire entegrity and strength.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 9, 2003, 4:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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Use screamers.
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