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boz84
Sep 1, 2003, 7:31 PM
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So, theres TONS of threads about, is this cam good, is this set of nuts good, etc, but really, I think a better question to pose would be what gear is a complete waste of money. Either hard to place/clean, useless in placements, etc, for whatever reason, which pieces of gear do you always leave at home, regardless, and wish you had never bought.
This way, people starting their trad racks can know what to avoid, and still have some leeway on making their own choices in making THEIR rack, not someone elses.
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petsfed
Sep 1, 2003, 7:49 PM
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Don't get the smaller (aka "Micro") camalots. Aliens are better.
Don't get bigbros if you don't want to climb big cracks. Other than that, everything has its place.
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kyhangdog
Sep 1, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Don't buy the Perrin Wedge.
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gyngve
Sep 1, 2003, 8:27 PM
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Don't rush out and buy a ton of gear. Climb on friends' gear. Get some gear and climb on it. Then you can buy more gear if you really like leading trad and you feel a need to have more gear (based on the climbing available in your area). The other thing to keep in mind is you really only need to own enough gear so your gear plus your partner's gear will get you up a route... this is especially useful on pitches that require doubles of #4 Camelots...
The pro that remains in the closet the most often for me are small hexes. I frequently use larger hexes, but for smaller stuff, I use a nut or a tricam or a cam. I bought the hexes as a set, thinking I'd be saving money by getting all at once.
As for pieces that I could use more of, probably Aliens/TCUs... I really wanted one the other day when the lack of a second red or orange alien (i placed both earlier in a 5.9+ finger/thin-hands crack) resulted in a nervous 60 ft runout on 5.6+ slabs.
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 1, 2003, 8:48 PM
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Don't buy any hexes (cowbells) save the dough for cams. don't buy too many tricams unless you climb at the gunks or some place with a lot of narrow pockets. red an pink are the tricams that most non tricam fanatics use. Don't buy a bunch of wide gear unless you live out west or really plan on doing wide cracks. In the east you have to look for them.
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thegreytradster
Sep 1, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Fancy belay/rapel devices. Still go back to the Trango Pyramid. Something like it is all you need.
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tim
Sep 1, 2003, 11:33 PM
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In reply to: Fancy belay/rapel devices. Still go back to the Trango Pyramid. Something like it is all you need.
Actually, speaking of Trango, I like the B52 a lot. It does pretty much everything well. Although mine came apart at one point (no not the aluminum part, just the keeper wire somehow slid out), once I epoxied (ok JB-Weld'd) the wire back in, it was good as new.
That thing is light and I mean that in the best possible way (weigh) ;-) ... more impressed with it as time goes by and I use skinny ropes with it (eg. my twins are 7.5mm -- find me another general purpose belay device that will handle them, I challenge you!).
maldaly is on here -- if he sees this, I would like to congratulate him on coming up with an innovative, lighter-weight solution that did not infringe on Petzl's patents. That must have took some doing! Trango r0x0rz.
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tt
Sep 2, 2003, 5:08 AM
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I love larger hexes, but I don't use the small sizes very often, and they are the first pieces that are left at home. The reason is that in the camming mode, it's harder to find and judge good placements because there isn't much room for error. In the side-on placement, a stopper would work just as well, and often better. My friend's rack doesn't have a second set of stoppers, so I use his small hexes to fill in his rack. They work fine there.
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bustinmins
Sep 2, 2003, 7:11 PM
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I haven't been leading long but I can definately say that the hex comments you've read are pretty accurate. However I do have two sets 5-10 - one with wire and the other cord. I do carry them mainly to scare off the bears or the rap that will leave gear on the wall - I'd rather leave a hex than a cam anyday. Also - hexes are great for anchors if you don't have many cams and you'd prefer to use them on the route above.
I have three belay devices and prefer the grip and rappel of the Reverso by Petzl. I have had an ATC(gave it to a newbie) and then I bought an ATC-XP(love it). I also bought a Grigri for a nice paper weight and also for the newbies that belay me on sport climbs in a gym or on a crag. I like the extra little bit of knowing the grigri will absolutely grab the rope.
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ricardol
Sep 2, 2003, 7:18 PM
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unless the route specifically calls for them .. i'd skip ballnutz ..
-- ricardo
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epic_ed
Sep 2, 2003, 7:54 PM
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- Ditto on the small hexes comments.
- Splitter Gear 2-Cams
Ed
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shortfatoldguy
Sep 2, 2003, 8:15 PM
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I bought a B-52 because I was getting hot raps on doubles with my Reverso. But now I just double up on the 'biners w/my Reverso and never use the B-52. (I prefer using just one beefy "hanger" 'biner when I'm autoblocking two seconds.)
up2top, what don't you like about the Splitter two-cam units? I bought one to double up on a size but haven't used it much yet.
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epic_ed
Sep 2, 2003, 8:24 PM
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In reply to: up2top, what don't you like about the Splitter two-cam units? I bought one to double up on a size but haven't used it much yet.
Exactly. There seems to be some consensus on the limits of their usefulness:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=19441&highlight=splitter+gear
Ed
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maculated
Sep 2, 2003, 8:26 PM
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Agree with Ed. Nice for Aid, not my choice for trad.
That said, I have a microcam and it DOES get used . . . and in cracks smaller than my aliens fit in occasionally. Scary, but better than nought.
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tradklime
Sep 2, 2003, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: unless the route specifically calls for them .. i'd skip ballnutz .. -- ricardo
Myself, I love ball nutz and use them all the time.
I'd have to say camalots are the gear not to buy. Too expensive, too heavy, and too bulky. But it's just an opinion like all others.
On edit: Oh and I think hexes (of all sizes) are pretty much a waste.
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stick233
Sep 2, 2003, 9:35 PM
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for some reason my camp tir cams stay home the most. i love the idea of them, but a nut or cam usually goes quicker...
caveat: i'm in AZ and have yet found a 'must have' spot for them...
school me if i'm wrong
rob
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petro
Sep 2, 2003, 10:07 PM
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Everything has it's place, it just depends on your area and style.
Vedauwoo, big hexes are trucker.
Eldo and Lumpy, RP's and BD micro stoppers rule.
Anything alpine Camp Tricams are unbeatable (I don't know about that big yellow mideavil torture device though)
Don't forget your Camalots at the Creek.
TCU's fit pinscars, but why stop there!!!
I've never met a real climber with a homogenious rack (only weekend warriers and the richy rich), they're always frankenstein mixes from closeout sales, experiments, and booty!
There is no such thing as bad gear. There isn't a single peice that will work in every situation, that is what makes gear shopping so much fun. If you think you might have gotten duped into buying some crappy gear, send it my way. I'd love to test it out for you.
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maldaly
Sep 2, 2003, 10:28 PM
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Petro's got the answer here. I own a frickin' climbing gear company, and my rack is still a Heinz 57 mish-mash of gear. Things come and go but the gear that works best for me is the stuff I'm used to. Plain and simple.
Malcolm
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kyhangdog
Sep 2, 2003, 10:43 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2001
Posts: 480
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Do not buy the Perrin Wedge.
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brutusofwyde
Sep 3, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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Hammer.
Pins.
Bosch.
Bolts.
Grigri.
Jumars.
Haul bag.
Portaledge.
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chitlinsconcarne
Sep 3, 2003, 12:47 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 199
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Do not buy a slightly used Dolt cart..even if it seems like a really good deal at the time.
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epic_ed
Sep 3, 2003, 1:11 AM
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In reply to: Hammer. Pins. Bosch. Bolts. Grigri. Jumars. Haul bag. Portaledge.
Trad gear, Brutus, trad gear, damn it! :wink:
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rockclimber412
Sep 3, 2003, 1:49 AM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2003
Posts: 15
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wild country cams seem like their trigger is too unstable and with a little uneven pressure on it will make the cams uneven. when you activate cams like metolius or dmm they feel much more stable, i also like that they can be activated by one finger
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dirko
Sep 3, 2003, 1:57 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 374
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Lite beer.
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shortfatoldguy
Sep 3, 2003, 2:25 AM
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Posts: 1694
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^^Hah hah hah hah...
I'll add dental dams...
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