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keeping it clean
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collegekid


Sep 9, 2003, 7:44 PM
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keeping it clean  (North_America: United_States: California: Ventura_County: Pine_Mountain)
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I visited pine mt. yesterday...

I was disappointed by a few things:

1. Someone leaving t.p. (among other things) at the base of a boulder that OBVIOUSLY had a climb on it, in the Happy Hunting grounds. (It looked as though someone had buried their waste in pine needles, and animals/wind had conveniently spread it around.) If you need to go to the bathroom, PLEASE drive/walk the whopping .5 miles down the road to the bathroom.

2. A broken crimper on "New Ways to get from A to B," which was a key hold. All that is left is a tiny little thing (that may or may not be usable, i didn't try it). REMEMBER, Pine Mt. is really fragile and chossy, so either don't climb there or pull gently. Also, remember to wait a few days after rain before climbing.


tenn_dawg


Sep 9, 2003, 7:50 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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Dude...Holds break!

I accidentally broke one on Sunday. Not at Pine Mountain granted, but it happens.

I high stepped up to a small crimp, that I just cranked off of..rocked my weight over and, "SMACK". Down I went.

I didn't realize what happened until I went to try the problem again. Bummer. It will still go, but the hold is a good bit tougher now.

These things happen.

Travis


norskagent


Sep 9, 2003, 7:56 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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it's the "natural" evolution of a problem...some are so bullet or blank they will never change (in our lifetime), some "change" due to use, and some have holds / features that common sense dictates using with discretion else you incur the wrath of the locals...


collegekid


Sep 9, 2003, 8:08 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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ok, i accept that holds break...I'm just saying, you can try to reduce this "natural" deterioration by being careful.


dingus


Sep 9, 2003, 8:14 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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These hold breakers really piss me off too! It's tantamount to chipping it is! I bet that hold was pulled off a purpose.

Hold breakers! DON'T GET ME STARTED!

DMT


norskagent


Sep 9, 2003, 8:15 PM
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the main thing is to get the new F.A. after the hold breaks.


tenn_dawg


Sep 9, 2003, 8:33 PM
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These hold breakers really piss me off too! It's tantamount to chipping it is! I bet that hold was pulled off a purpose.

Hold breakers! DON'T GET ME STARTED!

DMT

I go around with a crowbar sometimes after dark and turn everyone's boulder problems into sandbags. It works especially well right after you send the problem in front of a bunch of people.

The next day, the hopeful senders come and just can't figure out how I did that move. Hahahaha.

Suckers, the way I see it, I'm increasing the standards of our sport! V5 feels like V10 the next day. Everybody's gotta start climbing harder, not to mention the benefits of everyone seeing me send the impossibly hard problem.

I just might get a sponsership.

Ethics are for the weak.


caughtinside


Sep 9, 2003, 9:03 PM
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Ethics are for the weak.

I love it! :lol:


rwaltermyer


Sep 9, 2003, 9:10 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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hating hold breakers is so ethnocentric...I'm sure we've all accidently broken a hold or two. So don't assume every other broken hold was intention.

Now if you catch some intentionally trying to break one, that warrants Tar and Feathering.


t-dog
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Jun 21, 2004, 5:56 PM
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Re: keeping it clean [In reply to]
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2. A broken crimper on "New Ways to get from A to B," which was a key hold. All that is left is a tiny little thing (that may or may not be usable, i didn't try it).

I was just there this weekend and did "New Ways to get from A to B" using what is left of the broken crimper (a little sidepully crimper thing). I don't know if it increases the difficutly though, hey, it might even make it worth it's V4 rating now, lol. And also IMHO it makes the problem a lot more interesting now since it's not over when you get the crimper anymore and have to do another ineresting move or two.
Just my 2 cents.


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