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lelek
Oct 20, 2003, 11:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2003
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Hi all...
Just want to take a quick poll here. Whats the average runout between bolts at your area?
If you fall while blowing a clip at third bolt, would you hit the ground?
Just asking cos here in Malaysia, there are a few places that are very inconsistent with the placements of bolts, some runout around 1 meter, some around 3-4 meters, some even more.
Derek.
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mattdog
Oct 21, 2003, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2003
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Out at Currahee in Georgia, run-outs are somewhere between 10 and 20 feet! (3-6 meters!)
Southern climbers hate bolts, so they chop them when they get the chance. It makes sport climbing adventurous.
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tutugirl
Oct 21, 2003, 12:57 AM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2003
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At the Red River it depends on the route, usually the clipping hold has a bolt next to it...the size of the clipping hold depends on the level of the climb...the distance between holds depends on both.
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brianthew
Oct 21, 2003, 1:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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Up here in MN and WI:
Red Wing - depends wildly between routes. Sometimes you are looking at a ground fall if you blow the second clip, and even the third on a few routes. Typically, 4- 5 feet during sustained hard sections and maybe 7 feet when you're on easy terrain, at times more.
Willow River - Generally closer, typically mainly because the routes are very overhung and nothing is more amusing than dangling in space 12 feet below a piece. 4-8 feet dependent on angle.
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kagunkie
Oct 21, 2003, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2000
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At an area here in Pa called neversink its about five or six feet on that 5.5 that was recently chopped. OK maby it was eight feet but you figure it out there was five bolts in thirtyfive feet not counting the cold shuts. :roll:
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joshy8200
Oct 21, 2003, 1:17 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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You're area isn't anything unheard of on runout routes. Everywhere has places where the routes were put up using bolt on lead or really bold first ascent parties. NC has lots a few places that are really well bolted...maybe NC tends to have first bolts pretty high off the deck. Not really sure how this came to be, but it's just what I've noticed. Then there are places like Stone Mtn, Big Green, Whitesides. Stone Mtn is reknowned for being almost totally groundup bolted. A handful of routes are "solo routes with no protection." In the guide it actually calls routes with "25 foot runouts well protected." Stone has this because the climbs are all slab and typically you won't die if you cheese grate down a granite slab...you just want have any skin on your body. Big Green has some of the boldest routes I know of...reading the descriptions and looking at the routes are insane. Whiteside is the same way. Often the crux pitches are pretty well protected, but expect easy territory to have long serious runouts.
Linville Gorge is also a big no bolts area. I think this is the beauty of climbing in the South. It's adventure and true to the beginnings of the sport of climb. The NC Wall in Linville Gorge in my opinion holds a ton of bold, hard, runout trad routes left. I can't wait to see over the next few years as the grades in climbing and techniques increase the routes that will comeout of Linville Gorge.
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