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tucsonalex
Oct 23, 2003, 10:17 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: :roll: Look, I see lots of gumby s--- at my crags. Actually, that was quite a gumby show last weekend. A group of 4 gumbies, all lead belaying using figure 8s rigged in rappel mode. No gloves. At least two of the gumbies take their brake hand off the rope each time they feed out rope. The apparent head gumby kept "correcting" one belayer by telling him to be sure he tucked his brake hand behind ass, but never mentioned anything about keeping the brake hand on the rope. The belayer is sitting 20 feet away from the wall, has too much slack in the rope, and is unanchored. The leader back clips the first bolt, so the belay probably doesn't matter, anyway. Earlier the same group had no idea how to handle a two-pitch rappel (with an intermediate bolted rap anchor) with a single rope. The head gumby, from the ground, kept yelling up vague instruction for the guy to somehow "belay himself" down. Fortunately, the advice wasn't taken. Instead, oddly enough, the guy fixed his rope to the anchor and did a single-line rappel to the ground. Then, hikes around and up to the top of wall to retrieve his rope. Weird. -Jay
Jay, you forgot about the jumbo size box of goldfish crackers they tossed off the top of the route.
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inflight
Oct 23, 2003, 10:29 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
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I don't look down on boltholers. In fact the funniest and dumbest thing I ever saw was by a new trad climber.
He yells "ROPE!!!!!!" from the top of Hemingway buttress then tosses a coiled rope. :shock:
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alpnclmbr1
Oct 23, 2003, 10:44 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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In reply to: Then again, *I* think I'm a gumby. What's one more person agreeing with me?
Happily, I am also a gumbie, because I don't really aid climb.
It is safer and you will live longer calling yourself a gumbie as opposed to calling yourself an "expert." Props on that one.
The troll was only half in jest. It use to be the "tribe" was called being a climber, all the factionalization inherent in the trad vs sport vs boulderer is kind of lame and unnecessary. The way I see it is that what you are is a climber and what you do is whatever makes you the most happy.
For myself, what makes me the happiest in the long run is doing all of it.
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revegentil
Oct 23, 2003, 11:11 PM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Sep 11, 2003
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hey all...im from FL and the climbing sucks unless you enjoy all two 4 foot, limestone, boulders it has to offer. im just curious though...why would someone refer to a whole race of people as "blacks"?
whatever your opinion lets not use an adjective as a pronoun for an entire people. im greek so id be an olivegreen...doesnt sound to good although if i were a tshirt it would be ok.
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salami
Oct 23, 2003, 11:45 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: I don't look down on boltholers. In fact the funniest and dumbest thing I ever saw was by a new trad climber. He yells "ROPE!!!!!!" from the top of Hemingway buttress then tosses a coiled rope. :shock:
lol i almost fell out of my chair..... thats a good one...this is my 2 cents, Learning how to sport climb is much easier that learning Trad. Hence sport climbers move up in the grades much faster, Which in turn can lead to the halirous antics that I have been reading about on the origional post.
You usually don't get up in the morning and say I think I will learn Trad today, Where you can go to the gym and learn sport. The slow move up through the grades in Trad, makes you more able to handle epics a little easier, because you most likely have seen some thing like that on lesser grades. This only applys to some one who has been taught right... not like the trad guy in the above quoted post.
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jt512
Oct 23, 2003, 11:49 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: :roll: Look, I see lots of gumby s--- at my crags. Actually, that was quite a gumby show last weekend. A group of 4 gumbies, all lead belaying using figure 8s rigged in rappel mode. No gloves. At least two of the gumbies take their brake hand off the rope each time they feed out rope. The apparent head gumby kept "correcting" one belayer by telling him to be sure he tucked his brake hand behind ass, but never mentioned anything about keeping the brake hand on the rope. The belayer is sitting 20 feet away from the wall, has too much slack in the rope, and is unanchored. The leader back clips the first bolt, so the belay probably doesn't matter, anyway. Earlier the same group had no idea how to handle a two-pitch rappel (with an intermediate bolted rap anchor) with a single rope. The head gumby, from the ground, kept yelling up vague instruction for the guy to somehow "belay himself" down. Fortunately, the advice wasn't taken. Instead, oddly enough, the guy fixed his rope to the anchor and did a single-line rappel to the ground. Then, hikes around and up to the top of wall to retrieve his rope. Weird. -Jay Jay, you forgot about the jumbo size box of goldfish crackers they tossed off the top of the route.
You're right. Bad enough that they threw it off, but they didn't even yell "goldfish."
I also forgot that, like the story in the original post, they climbed a mixed route without carrying pro. The one guy is like, "geeze, how do I get all the way to the next bolt." I look at the topo and it says, "Pro: 3 bolts, small cams." Finally, there was that business about climbing above the anchors, and then having trouble descending. I never did figure out what that was all about.
-Jay
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revegentil
Oct 24, 2003, 12:04 AM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Sep 11, 2003
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like someone else said trad IS a little more costly...as of now im only a sport climber because of the cash and also because i live on hatteras island, so when i DO go climb i want to CLIMB all i can and actually i mostly only see a lot of sport climbers where ive gone. in the near future though i hope and pray God will send a knowledgable trad climber my way to show me the ropes. im sick of only reading about how awesome trad is. hehe...so yeah next time i get leave to and go climb ill send out a post cuz i would love to learn. i hope to go to pilot mounain sometime soon.
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sandbag
Oct 24, 2003, 12:11 AM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Jan 12, 2003
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Poor and dangerous climbing usually has a fairly accurate and self attenuating algorythm.
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moabbeth
Oct 24, 2003, 12:22 AM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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[quote="jt512
I also forgot that, like the story in the original post, they climbed a mixed route without carrying pro. The one guy is like, "geeze, how do I get all the way to the next bolt." I look at the topo and it says, "Pro: 3 bolts, small cams." Finally, there was that business about climbing above the anchors, and then having trouble descending. I never did figure out what that was all about.
-Jay
Good grief. Did they even know what "pro" meant? That it's short for "protection" and not a level of climbing ability? That's another big sport/trad difference. Trad climbers always check out the route ahead of time to know what pro to use, thus getting a much better idea of what they're going to be climbing. Sportos just need to know how many draws to bring.
I have nothing against sport climbers, but I haven't done it in ages cause to me just climbing and clipping bolts seems really boring compared to the challenges of trad (and for me now, aid). It all depends on your goal. If you wanna be a rad 5.12 climber, then stick to sport. If you wanna go higher than a rope pitch off the ground, learn trad. Sport lets you focus on your technique without having to do things like place bomber gear that will save your life. Trad forces you to actually use your brain above the brawn. Different strokes for different folks.
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