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rockingnyc
Oct 27, 2003, 10:08 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Oct 27, 2003
Posts: 27
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Gri-Gri I find better for most aplications, but I don't have my own, so for economic reasons I like an ATC. I usually use my BD ATC xp because I can use it as a regular ATC, but then it has that cool high friction side.
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tendertendons
Oct 27, 2003, 10:29 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Sep 11, 2003
Posts: 47
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Depends.
If I'm belaying a leader on a 1 pitch climb then I love my Trango Pyramid because if the smooth rope feed. On multipitch I'll probably carry 2 on separate lockers for full length rappels (let one cool down while using the other). For all other applications I would have to say a DMM Munter biner (new style) as the HMS is the SAFEST method of belaying a leader when you look at the advantages. The UIAA is also in agreement with this notion.
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coldclimb
Oct 28, 2003, 1:06 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
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Love the reverso.
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coclimber26
Oct 28, 2003, 1:42 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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I'm down with the Trango B-52..
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hello_heino
Oct 28, 2003, 2:03 AM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 231
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The Air Traffic Conroller is Heinos's first choice in belaying. Heino does not like the Petzl Reverso, as popular as it may be, because it gives a stiff belay, is difficult to feed slack, and promotes "mindless" belaying with that "self-locking" nonsense. A gi-gi is a fine tool, simple, and effective for belaying seconds from multi-pitch anchors, while providing options for increased efficiency is self-resue situations. Heino also frequently use the hip belay on easier terrain, and sometimes just for effect, although lowering a partner this way can sometimes require the use of a fine lubricant.
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billcoe_
Nov 21, 2003, 3:38 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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"A fine lubricant"???!! :?:
Perhaps Heino is running the rope between his legs instead of around his hip. In which case Heino may need a kleenex as well as a lubricant?
:lol: :lol:
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cjstudent
Nov 25, 2003, 3:41 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
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I am using the Trango Jaws, it seems to have plenty of friction for my application. My partner weights at least 50lbs more than I do, and has plenty of stopping power. I however do not like rappelling with it, especially only double ropes because it is too much friction and I am constantly having to feed the rope. I usually rap with a Figure 8. My partner likes his BD ATC, and raps with it.
To each his/her own.
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