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Anchor Ethics
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c_kryll


Nov 8, 2003, 12:53 AM
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Anchor Ethics
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I'm just looking for some feedback on what you would do in this situation.

Your doing a multi-pitch classic and at the second belay you find an already set anchor with 3 nuts, girth hitched with 1" webbing, equalized with an 8mm rope threaded through a tunnel. There are 2 carabiners at the master point, one is a locker. The slings look like they've only been there a few days and 2 of the 3 nuts are easily removed.

What would you do? Take/remove the anchor as it seems it was placed to escape the climb? Or leave it as a fixed anchor point?



Chris


iamthewallress


Nov 8, 2003, 12:54 AM
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It's trash/booty. Remove it.


no_limit


Nov 8, 2003, 12:56 AM
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BOOTY


rizzuh


Nov 8, 2003, 1:04 AM
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MONEY IN DA BANK!


vegastradguy


Nov 8, 2003, 1:09 AM
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booty. someone bailed and used as much gear as they felt they needed to stay safe, and so the bounty is yours. :D


olympicmtnboy


Nov 8, 2003, 1:43 AM
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So c_kryll, did you find some good booty, or lose some favorite nuts? I'd probably booty it too, although if it still looked good I'd leave the 8mm loop for the next guy.


c_kryll


Nov 8, 2003, 1:47 AM
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I kept em', but your right that I did leave the 8mm. Wasn't worth taking and too much a pain in the ass to remove.

Chris


crackboy


Nov 8, 2003, 7:52 AM
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i guess it depends, if there had been reports of an accident recently i might turn it in to the rangers, otherwise, its mine


herm


Nov 9, 2003, 8:47 PM
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booty


climb_plastic


Nov 9, 2003, 10:33 PM
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It's booty to take. Then the next time you find yourself in trouble and you need to leave gear then you just leave the stuff you found without feeling too bad about it or trying to take extra risks to retrieve it.


njbourne


Nov 17, 2003, 6:19 AM
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I can't imagine someone building an anchor like that to bail on but if they did then is booty for sure.

If you have reason to belive it might belong to someone ahead of you on the route then give it back to them if you can. I have forgotten gear at a belay and had it returned to me a couple of times. Its good for your karma to return it. You to will forget something someday and if your going lite it could make or break your attempt.


Partner coldclimb


Nov 17, 2003, 6:35 AM
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booty


rcaret


Nov 17, 2003, 6:39 AM
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BOOTY !!!!!


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