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andypro
Sep 25, 2003, 5:17 AM
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Looking for a new pair of boots. Was thinking about the Scarpa Alpha's. Has anyone got experience with them or know anyhitng in particular about them? i.e. how warm are they, how comfortable they are to wear over 24 hours, and how is the fit? Iv'e got an 11 wide foot and when I had Invernos I had to size them up from an 11 to 12 to get a proper fit in both width and length with socks etc on to stay warm for extended periods.
Also if anyone knows, how well do they climb both in and out of crampons.
Thanks
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yotrepo
Sep 25, 2003, 7:14 AM
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A friend of mine has them and they seem like a bit of a compromise. Not as good as leather for tricky stuff, but not as warm as, say, your invernos. But if your not a specialist, than they will work well.
My buddy had koflachs before and he said they are a BIG improvement, but he climbs a lot of rock in winter and was lamenting about his friends Freneys... you can never win....
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andyk
Oct 22, 2003, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2002
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Hi Andy
Been using Alphas since their proto days and I think they are the best boot of their type at the moment (although saying that what I mean is they are just like 1st gen asolo expeditions!).
The shells arn't as light as people make out but lightweight boots are the ultimate compromise in this catagory of boot (I think Scarpa have got the weight down as far as possible without damaging performance). They are very precise and flatter then the VEga (better on Rock), yet roomy anough even if you've got broad feet.
Warmth wise the inners that come as standred are performance inners, and so are very slim, and give slighty more warmth then a winter leather. Paul Ramsden and Mick Fowler used the boots on their hard route in china last year and both thought they where warm anough.
For real cold stuff you can buy the boots bigger and fit your cloced cell inners (HA Vega, Koflack aveolite), making them technical expedition boots.
The only thing I'd recomend is to fit a power strap to the boot.
I hope that's of some use.
Andy K
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jhump
Oct 22, 2003, 8:21 PM
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andyk,
I have been looking for a power strap since reading one of your articles on planetfear.com . Any idea where I can get one over here in the colonies.
As a side note to others on this site...read everything on planetfear and especially the articles by Andy Kirkpatrick. You will get a different perspective than the usual marketing hype that passes for science here in the states.
Andy, I am sending a PM to you of some other questions I have.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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andyk
Oct 22, 2003, 8:40 PM
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Thanks for the posative feedback Jeremy - and good to see a strange brit presective work for US conditions (I north America IS a big place, so somewhere must be like the UK!).
I've actualy been trying to do some stuff for Rock & Ice on the gear side but no luck so far (maybe a bit too controversial?), so maybe I should try and set up a rockclimbing.com petition to Duane Raleigh!
As for Powerstraps I'm using a pair of straps of some Scarpa Denali's, so Black Diamond USA should have them in stock. They seem to be the best, being low profile and sold once in place (unlike home made 25mm standred webbing which aren't really solid anough).
Thanks
Andy
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slabmaster
Oct 22, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 17, 2003
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Andy,
You probably know this... always, Always, ALWAYS try them on. I was looking for boots for waterfall ice climbing last year. Tried on Koflach verticals, Koflach Arctics Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, Lowa Civetta Extremes. The Alphas were the only ones to fit my feet properly. My feet are not anything unusual either! 9 1/2 Ds. It's all about the arch, width at the toes + heels, etc.
Having said that I love 'em. Tosty warm.
~r
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luigi
Nov 4, 2003, 6:00 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2002
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I've worn the Alphas a few times (rented). There nice, but not as warm as I would like them, but my feet are always the first thing that get cold (bad circulation I guess). I had the luxury to be able to rent a couple of different type of plastic boots from Bentgate here in Golden CO before I bought a pair. See if a Mountaineering shop lets you try before you buy. I would try and do that first and then make your decision. The other cool thing Bentgate did is after I decided to buy my boots is that they applied one of my rental fees toward the purchase of my boots :-)
luigi
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csoles
Nov 4, 2003, 6:59 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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Thermo-molded liners take care of the cold problem, for the most part, and save weight. My main complaint with Scarpa plastics (either) is they leak like a sieve when other plastics keep you dry. This is only an issue on stream crossings but beware if you spend time on glaciers. They could solve the defect with a gusset but I doubt they will bother. Pity, because otherwise they are decent boots. But it's enough af an issue that I'd never buy a pair. YMMV
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malabarista
Nov 13, 2003, 1:13 AM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2003
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I used them all last season on a dozen ice routes and I have no complaints. They are definitely more responsive than a Koflach Vertical or Arctis, but not as warm. Fit, of course is where it's at.
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