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nockorocko
Nov 15, 2003, 1:07 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2003
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Yes ... I'm new to rock climbing? I guess this is evident from my stupid newbie posts. Although... have climbed steam plants, bridges, and very large petroleum tanks. So my question is....where in the gear system are you suppose to use a load bearing device? (i.e. a yates screamer) And what situation would you want to use one for? And do they really help absorb the shock of a fall? I really would like to know when to use one of these and are they nescessary in certain situations :?:
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herm
Nov 15, 2003, 1:20 AM
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Most load limiters begin to release at 400 lbs. They are put on crappy gear that may fail, in hopes that the controlled ripping will absorb enough impact to prevent the gear from pulling out. Think tiny wires and cams in rotten rock. Or ancient historical 1/4 bolts.
They do not guaratee that all crappy pro can be made good with a screamee. If you need to use a screamee, you are in a position where you should be aware that the pro may not hold; climb like you are way run out. It mearly improves your odds of not ripping out gear.
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jhump
Nov 15, 2003, 2:08 AM
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In reply to: Yes ... I'm new to rock climbing? I guess this is evident from my stupid newbie posts. Although... have climbed steam plants, bridges, and very large petroleum tanks. So my question is....where in the gear system are you suppose to use a load bearing device? (i.e. a yates screamer) And what situation would you want to use one for? And do they really help absorb the shock of a fall? I really would like to know when to use one of these and are they nescessary in certain situations :?:
You mean load limiters. Use them as quickdraws. Clip to gear/bolt with one end and to the rope with the other.
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ontario_guide
Nov 28, 2003, 5:58 PM
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You mean load limiters. Use them as quickdraws. Clip to gear/bolt with one end and to the rope with the other.
Don't use them as quickdraws unless you don't like your money too much. Load limiters or screamers as they are also called are used primarily in ice climbing at the start of a pitch where impact forces are highest and to help protect against a fall onto the belay which is a bad thing. See a section on fall factors. They area also used in Trad climbing in much the same way. Ususally they are not necessary higher in the pitch because there is more rope out to absorb the impact forces thus decreasing the force on the protection although they can be used whenever a long run out is expected. I think the post before was more directed at how to use them. In this case it is correct in that they are used exactly like a quickdraw. Clip to 'biners into them. One end connects to the pro the other to the rope. You can attach a runner to the end if you need to but It's best to attach this to the rope end and not the pro-end.
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nockorocko
Nov 29, 2003, 12:02 AM
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Thanks alot all for your replies. Just needed to know how to use them and where to put 'em. :)
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charley
Nov 30, 2003, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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agree with herm.
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