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coclimber26
Nov 20, 2003, 12:36 AM
Post #51 of 71
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I'm a moderate climber and have confidence leading most moderate routes. but I prefer climbing way below my ability level. I love just moving on easier rock with a steady rhythem and good rock and positions. Some days I have more fun following and not thinking about the things that get in the way of the movement like pro and getting sketched. Somedays I have to lead, it's like an exploration for me, trying to find all those familiar sequences that my body knows and has done so many times before. Climbing at your limit can take away from all the subtleties of the experience like the light, the sound, the position, the rhythum and pace, staying relaxed and the overall experience. Most of all I enjoy my soloist but you can't beat a good day with all your climbing buddies.
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traddad
Nov 20, 2003, 1:23 AM
Post #52 of 71
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All things in moderation.....except moderation :wink:
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brutusofwyde
Nov 20, 2003, 10:08 PM
Post #53 of 71
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In reply to: Pfffft. Moderate Schmoderate. At the end of the day the only thing that matters (besides coming home in one piece) is whether or not you had a good time climbing.
For me, at the end of the day on moderate climbs, the only thing that matters is whether or not I have a flat bivy, and when that incoming storm is going to hit...
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phyreman
Nov 20, 2003, 10:10 PM
Post #54 of 71
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"The greatest climber in the world is the one having the most fun"
I think Alex Lowe said that... I TR a 5.7, flail (but eventually will climb) a 5.8, trad lead a 5.4. It's not all about numbers. I look at route grades mainly as a way of keeping me from getting in over my head on a trad lead.
It's all about that feeling you get when you are on the second or third pitch of a trad route and it's really really exposed and you're 15 feet above your last piece. It doesn't matter to me that some mutant that climbs 5.14 would solo this before breakfast. For me I get hints of sheer terror followed by total exhilaration. THAT is why I climb.
Nate
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charley
Nov 20, 2003, 11:16 PM
Post #55 of 71
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I'm almost a moderate climber. I climb easy climbs. I have fun!!! I could have prolly written Phyreman's post.
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 20, 2003, 11:29 PM
Post #56 of 71
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I thought I was a moderate climber... untill I began to read this post.
Sport lead up to med. 11's
TR I'll Try anything... hardest yet completed 12a
Trad 5.5-5.7 some 5.5's at seneca suck (beginning of extacy junior)... others are peachy.
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petsfed
Nov 21, 2003, 12:40 AM
Post #57 of 71
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In reply to: HEY WHO WANTS TO GO DO SOME MODERATES AT INDIAN CREEK!!!!!???!!??1
Oooh! Oooh! Me! Me! We can do like 4 routes! Yeah! I'd rather flail on a harder climb in the Creek than wait in line on one of the moderates.
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robmcc
Nov 21, 2003, 12:42 AM
Post #58 of 71
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In reply to: Trad 5.5-5.7 some 5.5's at seneca suck (beginning of extacy junior)... others are peachy.
EJ's 5.4. Or did they change the rating on ANOTHER climb?!?
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gretna
Nov 21, 2003, 1:05 AM
Post #59 of 71
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Back in the summer before i came to school and was in climbing shape, I was sport leading 10's. As far as maxing out, I TR'd the 12a at Birdsboro in PA. Golly geez I was proud of myself. Now i just play rugby and wish i was on rock.
john
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 21, 2003, 2:48 AM
Post #60 of 71
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Maybe your right petsfed, but that first traverse once you pass the pine tree is kinda sketch only bc there was no pro at all... the rest of it was alright though.
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jagungal
Nov 21, 2003, 3:52 AM
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Wow, I thought I just sucked, but now I realise that I'm...a moderate climber.
I sometimes climb with a guy who used to be a hard man in his youth (5.13 and such). Then he got married and had kids and gained a couple of spare tyres. Now he is miserable on the rock because he can't do what he used to. So I'm a better climber than him...I am useless but I enjoy myself soooo much. :D
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gravical
Nov 21, 2003, 5:09 AM
Post #62 of 71
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I do agree! Hehe...moderate climbers we are! I must add though that I do not really mind the grade for anyone but myself. It is a competition against no one else to see which grades I can push. I sometimes go out and do a few classic easy routes which can prove to be even more fun the hard ones I (eventually) sticked :wink:
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mrme
Nov 21, 2003, 5:14 AM
Post #63 of 71
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In reply to: In reply to: Trad 5.5-5.7 some 5.5's at seneca suck (beginning of extacy junior)... others are peachy. EJ's 5.4. Or did they change the rating on ANOTHER climb?!?
don't ya know you can pic your ratings now....just like my onsight of tripple s was really a 5.10 at least not a 5.8 + thats just to wimpy a gradefor that burly climb ' yea my *ss it is' man no move is over 5.8 but i wonder what every other move on that thing is?
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 21, 2003, 5:25 AM
Post #64 of 71
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Yea, i think it is wrong to have grades that are not consistant. If you just looked at the guidebook for seneca you'd be like oh, this 5.9 sounds fun and then you hop on and end up getting stuck half way up b/c in reality that five nine has 5.11 nrg moves on it. If you think about it, it could get someone killed. There should be a standard rating system that is the same everywhere.
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catbiter
Nov 21, 2003, 6:21 AM
Post #65 of 71
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Registered: Nov 12, 2003
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Whoa! This is great. I've only been climbing for about a year now. My hardest lead was Candy Corner at Seneca. (mid 5 range) You know what, I felt so great after that climb even though I had sewing machine leg about half way up. God I love climbing.
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mrme
Nov 21, 2003, 8:01 AM
Post #66 of 71
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In reply to: Whoa! This is great. I've only been climbing for about a year now. My hardest lead was Candy Corner at Seneca. (mid 5 range) You know what, I felt so great after that climb even though I had sewing machine leg about half way up. God I love climbing.
i have lead that climb twice now and still hate that climb . i would not even have done it the secound time except i got forced to climb up and help out a newbie ... took shoes up to him and had to put them on him there at that really good stance off the right of the crux. nice lead by the way i think it is one of the hard ones.
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mrme
Nov 21, 2003, 8:10 AM
Post #67 of 71
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In reply to: Yea, i think it is wrong to have grades that are not consistant. If you just looked at the guidebook for seneca you'd be like oh, this 5.9 sounds fun and then you hop on and end up getting stuck half way up b/c in reality that five nine has 5.11 nrg moves on it. If you think about it, it could get someone killed. There should be a standard rating system that is the same everywhere.
if you climb it at seneca you can just about go anywhere and climb at that grade. i love that and hope they don't change it...hehehehe.....you have to admit that for the most part grades are pretty acurate .... i mean you can always climb on your home turf were you are used to the rock,or it just fits your style a little better than going somewhere else and climbing at that level i mean at least it is that way for me. i hate it when you go to a area like the new and jump on some pansey *ss climb for its grade and try the next door nabor and get spanked on the same type of climbs...at seneca most the stuff seems right for all the other stuff.
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mrme
Nov 21, 2003, 8:13 AM
Post #68 of 71
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catbiter
you should do skyline traverse i love that climb...
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mrme
Nov 21, 2003, 8:27 AM
Post #69 of 71
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In reply to: Yea, i think it is wrong to have grades that are not consistant. If you just looked at the guidebook for seneca you'd be like oh, this 5.9 sounds fun and then you hop on and end up getting stuck half way up b/c in reality that five nine has 5.11 nrg moves on it. If you think about it, it could get someone killed. There should be a standard rating system that is the same everywhere.
oh i just read my post over and it sounded rude sorry.... :oops:
i do agree with you on the rating thing it would be nice if it was all closer to a standard inbetween all areas ,but it is not so when i go somewhere new i always drop down a few grades to start with . i have seen people sand baged at seneca on a few ocasions. you love it when it is a loud obnocsius spray lord that talks about i did this and that and they pick a climb at there 'limit' and start off that way ... when they start flelling on a sub pare grade that they shoulda onsighted easy and you managed to onsight or redpoint it only the week before. then you fell even better when there team of three start seige attacking it and finally they reduce to some a0 so they can top rope it latter. even after countless people told them hey your first time here you should try a couple grades lower and work up to finde your limit here.... i think i heard a guide talken to them also. i kept my mouth shut i was really wanten to see some awsome climbing. oh well
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freudian
Nov 21, 2003, 3:12 PM
Post #70 of 71
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I've been climbing seriously for two years, but overall 4 years. My climbing schedule is like this:
Summer: twice in the evening after work plus twice on weekends
Winter: 2-3 times a week including weekends
For outdoor climbing I am currently at this level:
TR - 5.10d
Sport - 5.8
Trad - 5.8
I know that If I tried a few times I could do a 5.10b/c on sport lead and a 5.9 on trad, but haven't tried yet. For top rope, I know I could do a 5.11c if it was the right route and I had time to work it.
I am most comfortable leading at 5.7 trad and 5.8 sport... top roping at 5.10a.
Bouldering -- I do some in the gym but there are no set routes, it is just a mix of traversing and making up unmarked problems on a mostly roped-in wall.
I feel I am a moderate climber. N00B would be TR 5.6, Sport 5.6, Trad 5.6, IMO.
I climb mostly for enjoyement and not to push grades.. though pushing grades and succeding is amazingly rewarding.
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timstich
Nov 21, 2003, 11:52 PM
Post #71 of 71
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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In reply to: I'm happiest when climbing a long, multi-pitch 5.7-.8 route. Something like Ruper, Rewritten, or Bastille Crack.
I was scarit to lead the 5.7 hand traverse on Rewritten when I got on it for the first time. But after following it and having leading a few 5.8s now, I think *gulp* I could lead it and have a good time. But I definitely prefer to stay around 5.6 - 5.7 for the time being. I'm still trying to streamline gear selection. 5.9 trad leads would overload me at the moment I think, unless you're talking about just aiding. Heh.
But I still gotta say, the rock here in Colorado is way more fun to climb than the granite of Enchanted Rock in Texas. So much nicer...ahhhh. That made all the difference for me. The learning curve back home was just punishing. Foot jams were mandatory and painful. Very few face features exist on the hard splitter cracks. I languished in tepid disinterest for years there.
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