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cruzit
Nov 30, 2003, 4:00 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 56
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After almost a year layoff, I'm back leading again. A sweet little 5.6 on upper Mt. Scott in the Wichita Mts, OK, Atomic Kneedrop yesterday. I don't mind confessing to a little bit of apprehension (downclimbed the crux twice before I just went for it).
I had been leading really well up to about a year ago, completing some really nice 5.8 leads...then came the accident. Well two accidents actually. I sprained an ankle which had me incapacitated for 2 months, then 6 months later sprained the opposite ankle, both sprains after taking short leader falls. It really, really messed with my head.
My husband...bless his heart...has been gently encouraging me to lead every time we go out, but my heart hasn't been in it. Finally, decided for myself that it was time and just went for it.
So...as I said...Back in the saddle again...Hey...what did you think I meant??? :lol:
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nikegirl
Dec 1, 2003, 4:43 AM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2001
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awesome!
I was leading some heavy routes last year.
Got the lead card at my gym.
Which was not easy...and few get their card...I've been told.
Their 5.9 lead was soooo underrated.
Needless to say, it took ONE mental game, to mess with my head...at the gym... and I didn' t lead for almost a year.
I hit Smith a couple of months ago, with darkside, katydid, and betaben, and my kiddo. I asked if I could lead...needed to get it back.
all be it sport...it's still a whipper.
no problem, since. I'd love to get the head back in shape.
and my body...too.
good job...my fellow mental blocked friend.
keep on it.
kudos to you. :)
~T
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missedyno
Dec 1, 2003, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
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congrats on getting back into lead. focus focus! don't loose it...
i think i lost my lead head again *darn*
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hangerlessbolt
Dec 1, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2001
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In reply to: awesome! I was leading some heavy routes last year. Got the lead card at my gym. Which was not easy...and few get their card...I've been told. Their 5.9 lead was soooo underrated. Needless to say, it took ONE mental game, to mess with my head...at the gym... and I didn' t lead for almost a year. I hit Smith a couple of months ago, with darkside, katydid, and betaben, and my kiddo. I asked if I could lead...needed to get it back. all be it sport...it's still a whipper. no problem, since. I'd love to get the head back in shape. and my body...too. good job...my fellow mental blocked friend. keep on it. kudos to you. :) ~T
Not to mention your lead of Double Dip at Josh...
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dancesonrocks
Dec 2, 2003, 1:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 82
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Welcome back to climbing, seems like you did a good re-entry :)
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indigo_nite
Dec 2, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2002
Posts: 365
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congrats. I think the leading head game post injury can be the hardest...
keep it up... ...
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cruzit
Dec 2, 2003, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 56
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Thanks for the great support and vibes. I'm planning on attempting some on-sites of some moderate leads on Saturday. I'm applying the Rock Warrior techniques and I want to push a little to get some of the heebie jeebies out of the way. Wish me luck.
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jt512
Dec 2, 2003, 10:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: I had been leading really well up to about a year ago, completing some really nice 5.8 leads...then came the accident. Well two accidents actually. I sprained an ankle which had me incapacitated for 2 months, then 6 months later sprained the opposite ankle, both sprains after taking short leader falls.
You sprained your ankles on short lead falls? Did you hit a ledge or the ground? If not, your belay may not have been dynamic enough.
-Jay
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cruzit
Dec 3, 2003, 3:05 AM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
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In deference to my belayer, who is also my husband, I have to confess, both sprains were entirely my fault. I was careless with the rope on a traverse and got flipped upside down on a fall. The sprain was caused by the impact of my foot on the wall as I was flipping (baddddddd Jackie :evil: )Stupid ankle was swelled up twice it's normal size before he could lower me. Second sprain happened at Red Rocks on a 5.9 sport route...fell before the first bolt.... :oops:
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