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atomic
Mar 5, 2002, 11:58 PM
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Can anyone recommend a good beginner trad route in Joshua Tree?
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sonofspork
Mar 6, 2002, 12:22 AM
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If you want to go for a really good view, climb Circus (5.2) on Cap Rock. The climb is short and very easy, but it gets you to the very top of Cap Rock and you can see all over the place. Also on Cap Rock is a route called False Layback (5.4). Those two routes are good for getting used to placing gear. It's fun to climb the 5.4 and walk up and to the right and then hop onto the 5.2. If you want to try something a little harder, such as a 5.7, go to the South Hall of Horrors rock and climb Lazy Day.
-sONofSpORk
[ This Message was edited by: sonofspork on 2002-03-05 16:23 ]
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toobigtoclimb
Mar 6, 2002, 1:33 AM
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Here are some fun routes at varying difficulties. Don't forget that Josh is usually rated a little hard for the grade.
"The Eye" (Classic) 5.2 or 5.4 on Cyclops Rock near Hidden Valley Campground. Easy walk off.
"Bisk" 5.4 on Turtle Rock near Real Hidden Valley. Look for walk off from down below - a little confusing.
"The Bong" 5.5 fun, easy and short. In Hidden Valley Campground. Good Josh lead introduction.
"Mike's Books" 5.5 on Intersection Rock in Hidden Valley Campground. Fun with alternate 5.8 start.
"Fote Hog" 5.6 in Real Hidden Valley. Fun 5.6 with easy walk off.
"Toe Jam" 5.7 in Hidden Valley Campground. Fun, easy with rap chains.
Do these fun sport climbs too...
"Double Dip" 5.6?? and "Stichter Quits" 5.7?? both on Echo Rock near Hidden Valley Campground.
You can buy a guidebook at Nomad Ventures on the way into the park.
Have fun.
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addiroids
Mar 6, 2002, 2:15 AM
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I just climbed Lazy Day again. It was one of the first trad leads I did, and it was kind of hard for me.
Be careful on Fote Hog. There is a 30' grounder potential during the traverse. Not too bad the first time I climbed it, but the second time I got a little scared.
The Eye is a roped solo. You can get like 3 pieces of gear in. But it is 5.1 so no big deal.
I would avoid Turtle Rock like the Plague. The routes blow, and we took 30 minutes to find a safe? walkoff.
So all this could just be due to my being a panzy. Who knows. I will see tomorrow in Josh.
There are a ton of 5.6-7 out there that are very well protected. Just look for stars in the book.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
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floof
Mar 6, 2002, 3:21 AM
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Any comments on the south end of the Lost Horse Wall? In particular Wilson Regular Route [5.5 1star] and The Swift [5.7 2stars]. Judging from a picture, they're 250'-350' long.
I've got a photo of climbers doing this wall on my fridge. I want to give it a whirl in early April.
TIA,
- John
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sonofspork
Mar 6, 2002, 4:11 AM
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About that 5.7 route....Last time I was in Josh I was watching some people climbing it and the leader was like,"There is no friggen way this is 5.7"(implying it was harder, not easier).
-sONofSpORk
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crazywacky
Mar 6, 2002, 4:13 AM
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I will have to mark those down in the book....I'm going out there in June. Actually June 9 through the 15th or 16th...
Yay Me!
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hangerlessbolt
Mar 6, 2002, 4:41 AM
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The request for "beginner trad routes" is a bit deceptive to me in that I'm unclear as to; a) your experience placing pro. b) your level of ability. c) all those other things that go into leading trad.
In my humble opinion, Wilson's Regular Route is cake; however, you can make it more difficult if you would like to.
(Read the lower section of this TR:)
http://www.geocities.com/briancarmichall/120801-main.html
Fotehog has some stiff sections and can seem a bit runout...but I don't recall it being very tough as I used it as a warm-up for Ball Bearing 5.10a.
I would suggest:
Beginner's 1 5.3...easy, only a few 5.3 moves
Beginner's 2 5.2...(same as above...5.2 moves
Beginner's 3 5.3...same desc. as Beginner's 1
Upper Right Ski Track 5.3*...easy/fun
The Bong 5.4**...great route for the grade
SW corner 5.6*** ....bolts
Swain in the Breeze 5.6**...hangerlessbolts but fairly easy/ fun climbing
Mike's Books 5.6**...trad to 4"
Frosty Cone 5.7***...trad to 3"
Mr. Misty Kiss 5.7***...trad to 3"
(These two can be tough but have great protection opportunities)
If you can provide a little more detail about your experience and abilities, I would be happy to put together a more thorough list of route descriptions for you. As well, Toobig and myself are out there quite a bit...you're more than welcome to tag along with us for a few days.
~Hanger
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atomic
Mar 6, 2002, 5:31 AM
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I appreciate all the help. To answer your question, I am a beginner on placing pro.
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newbieclimber
Mar 6, 2002, 7:13 AM
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"About that 5.7 route....Last time I was in Josh I was watching some people climbing it and the leader was like,"There is no friggen way this is 5.7"(implying it was harder, not easier)."
you get that a lot at jtree.
dont miss the two must do scenic sport routes on headstone rock next to ryan campground. one is a 5.6 and the other is a 5.8 which you can TR if you want though some climbers think the 5.8 is easier than the 5.6.
and it doesnt look like anyone mentioned the following classics:
1) white lightning(5.7***) on the hemmingway buttress.
2) mental physics(5.7+****) in the wonderland of rocks. skip the second pitch which is an uninspiring short sport pitch and it just sets you up for a dangerous factor 2 fall if you dont make it to the first bolt. instead rap off the bolts at the top of the first pitch. mental physics is a bit of a hike but the formations out in the wonderland are spectacular. well worth it.
3)sail away(5.8-***) in the real hidden valley. one of the all time classic jtree lines.
if you want to go up a grade and climb a great sport route try:
loose lady(5.9+****) on the outside of the real hidden valley. most sport routes at jtree are run out but this one is reasonable.
all the routes i mentioned have bolted rap stations at the top so getting off is no problem.
have fun. jtree is spectacular.
[ This Message was edited by: newbieclimber on 2002-03-05 23:47 ]
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artm
Mar 6, 2002, 4:58 PM
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Floof
Lost Horse Wall isn't quite that long. you can shorten the first pitch by scrambling up onto the ledge system. I suggest doing Dappled Mare (5.8 ) or Bird on A Wire (10a) instead of the Swift. they're much more aesthetically pleasing
[ This Message was edited by: artm on 2002-03-06 08:59 ]
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froggy
Mar 6, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Well, being a new lead climber at Josh too the best routes to start on are definitely on Trash Can Rock (5.1’s-5.4’s). They are short and easy and awesome for good solid pro, plus your partner can climb around the back and check your anchor if you are new at this too.
Next go to the Bong for a solid (little harder) entry into crack/face climbing.
The Upper Right Ski Track Route is nice and easy, but not for a first lead. There is a lot of exposure and not the most wonderful pro in the world (this was my first lead and it freaked me out a bit). But after a little more experience definitely do this one
Frosty Cone is nice, but definitely be decent at placing pro before jumping on this one (it is slightly over-hung) and a bit pumpy.
Mr.Misty Kiss definitely feels like a stiff 5.8 (I am sure there are easier in the park).
~ Like Sail Away
Have fun and climb safe!!!
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climber1
Mar 6, 2002, 8:38 PM
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I have climbed the Swift three times. it is a wonderful route. I've climbed Mental Physics twice and highly recommend it.
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graniteboy
Mar 6, 2002, 11:26 PM
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I strongly disagree with "toobigtoclimb"s assessment of "stichter quits" as a good beginner route. The runouts on this route are not good for someone who is just leading 5.7. There have been alot of accidents on that route for that very reason.
BUT: double dip, cap rock, the bong, the bolted 5.7 face route to the left of the bong, mental physics, Trashcan rock routes, the left arete on headstone, the upper right ski track, and toejam are all good choices.
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blimpdriver
Mar 6, 2002, 11:59 PM
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Also there is alot in Indian Cove. There is alot on Short Wall and in the Indian Palisades Corridor. Also on Morbid Mound there are some 8's and 7's that are pretty easy.
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hangerlessbolt
Mar 7, 2002, 12:00 AM
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GB...
It's because Toobig "cruised" it. The guy could've done it solo; but yea, it's pretty sketchy with the runouts. (He's just TooDamnGood to climb)...
(On Double Dip, I would also recommend a #4 cam behind the flake; but that's cuz I'm a big ol' chicken.)
Dang...I Dig Joshua Tree!!!!
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toobigtoclimb
Mar 7, 2002, 1:33 AM
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Allright you big crybabies. Stay tuned for a list for someone who is new at placing pro. I didn't have that piece of info. before!
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jt512
Mar 7, 2002, 1:52 AM
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Quote:I strongly disagree with "toobigtoclimb"s assessment of "stichter quits" as a good beginner route. The runouts on this route are not good for someone who is just leading 5.7.
Right, and it's not a "sport climb" either. It's a bolted trad route.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-03-06 18:02 ]
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floof
Mar 7, 2002, 2:56 AM
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damn. rc.com is a fountain of info.
lots of thanks,
- John
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timhinck
Mar 18, 2002, 5:26 AM
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How about Double Cross**** 5.7 on Intersection Rock?
tim
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jt512
Mar 18, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Double Cross? For a beginner at gear placement? You're gonna scare the piss out of the poor lad. That thing is rated 5.7b, "b" for sandbag, that is.
-Jay
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artm
Mar 18, 2002, 11:44 PM
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Double Cross is also known as a Newbie death route. Many people have problems placing pro directly above the ledge/overhang/dish and get a little gripped....fall.....and deck onto it. Bad JuJu! Not a great route for someone just learning to place pro.
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jetace
Mar 20, 2002, 3:33 AM
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I climbed Toe Jam while at Josh Tree, it felt more like a tough 5.9 than a 5.7 . Watch out for the ratings, because of th friction of the rock everything is way under rated. We did the eye of cyclops, rated 5.1 It felt like a good 5.6. If you are looking for easy routes at Josh stay towards very low 5s A 5.8 was like a 510c Be careful.
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addiroids
Mar 20, 2002, 6:26 AM
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I have to do a little disagreeing here. I don't know where you climb, jetace but there is no way in hell that Toe Jam is anything near 5.9. That route is the definition of 5.7 if there ever was one. I actually think it is a little overrated for 5.7. But 5.9 it is not. Go climb Open Book at Tahquitz and then tell me that Toe Jam is 5.9.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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indigo_nite
Mar 26, 2002, 5:27 AM
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I'm also beginning trad. These are my first leads:
The Bong 5.4** (in the Blob area; ask someone there about the walkoff b/c it's kinda roundabout)... I followed this before leading it but liked it.
B-1 5.1* (at Trashcan rock; mainly straightforward but I had to focus for the topout over the last boulder)
False Layback 5.4 (at Cap Rock)
Scaramouch 5.2* (at Feudal Wall/Indian Cove; very fun):D
-Separately, someone commented on the difficulty of the Swift 5.7** and towards the end, if you follow the current line (a little left), you'd merge w/ a 5.9 route with slightly overhanging roof. The 5.7 shifts right. I followed on the 5.9 alt and felt like a chicken ready to lay rocks.
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