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antigrav
Dec 6, 2003, 7:06 PM
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Sorry if this is a faq, but I couldn't find much about it. Not much using Google either. Only useful thing is a single page in my copy of "Advanced Rock Climbing". (p. 120.)
Question is: How do you rock wizards clip quickly and efficiently into the quickdraws?! (Detailed explanation or pointers to such appreciated...)
I have just recently started leading, and the other day realized that on overhanging walls, the time I take to "fumble-clip" (which often works when I can rest on something vertical or less) simply saps all my strength in the arm/fingers I'm hanging from... Not good at all. Not good.
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rideandclimbkid
Dec 6, 2003, 8:41 PM
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middle finger in the bottom of the draw, pointer and thumb holding the rope. pull the biner into the rope. practice
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moeman
Dec 6, 2003, 9:38 PM
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Lots and lots and lots of pratice.
Get a draw and hang it from a nail in the wall over your bed. Get a short piece of rope. Clip, Unclip. Repeat 1,000,000 times.
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chossmonkey
Dec 6, 2003, 9:46 PM
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Practice, practice, practice. Then practice some more. The two clip styles I know and use are pinch clipping (holding the rope between index and middle fingers with thumb on the spine of biner) and finger clipping (middle finger holds biner steady while thumb and index push the rope into the biner). Learn both because even if you hang your own draws or place your gear they won't always be facing the way you want. I prefer pinch clipping but on seriously steep routes finger clipping is usually easier. Some people finger clip all the time. How you do it should be your own preference which you will find when you practice. Biners can make all the difference too. Just remember that the easier they clip the easier they could unclip.
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antigrav
Dec 6, 2003, 10:07 PM
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In reply to: Lots and lots and lots of pratice. Get a draw and hang it from a nail in the wall over your bed. Get a short piece of rope. Clip, Unclip. Repeat 1,000,000 times.
Thanks for the advice people!
The draw is up on the wall.
Only 999,972 reps' to go!
8)
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coldclimb
Dec 8, 2003, 3:10 AM
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In reply to: Lots and lots and lots of pratice. Get a draw and hang it from a nail in the wall over your bed. Get a short piece of rope. Clip, Unclip. Repeat 1,000,000 times.
Absolutely right. Just gotta do it until it's natural.
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mattdog
Dec 8, 2003, 3:20 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Lots and lots and lots of pratice. Get a draw and hang it from a nail in the wall over your bed. Get a short piece of rope. Clip, Unclip. Repeat 1,000,000 times. Absolutely right. Just gotta do it until it's natural.
Agreed... I know of two mechanisms... if I have alot of slack, I grip the rope with my little/ring/middle fingers and use the index finger to push against the gate, while the thumb pushes on the backside of the biner.
If you don't have alot of slack, and you're tired, you can use my last-ditch method: I put the rope between by index finger and thumb, and simply grab onto the biner as hard as I can, pushing the biner against the web of my hand with my thumb.
95% of the time it works, but you end up leaving a piece of the webbing of your hand in the clip. As I said... last ditch...
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whipper
Dec 8, 2003, 3:33 AM
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also try hanging one from your rear view mirror, perfact for trips to the crag
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mattdog
Dec 8, 2003, 3:38 AM
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In reply to: also try hanging one from your rear view mirror, perfact for trips to the crag
I would find a different road to drive on if the person in front of me was clipping rope from their rear-view while driving. ;-)
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overlord
Dec 8, 2003, 1:12 PM
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like said before... practice.
but imho youd be better off if you hand the draw from the doorframe so it cas swing in all directions and is harder to clip. once you master that, clipping on a face or slab where tha draw is better fixed will be a snap.
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antigrav
Dec 8, 2003, 3:12 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions... Hmm... Maybe I'll take advantage of the season... Kill to birds with one stone, and decorate the Xmas tree with quickdraws...
:D
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overlord
Dec 8, 2003, 3:14 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the suggestions... Hmm... Maybe I'll take advantage of the season... Kill to birds with one stone, and decorate the Xmas tree with quickdraws... :D
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
thats a gr8 idea.
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realization
Dec 13, 2003, 12:14 AM
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In reply to: Thanks for the suggestions... Hmm... Maybe I'll take advantage of the season... Kill to birds with one stone, and decorate the Xmas tree with quickdraws... :D |
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axewielder
Dec 24, 2003, 5:21 AM
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I was just thinking about this 30sec before i saw the title...
Practice aside...why are there so many techniques (i use at least 3 for some reason) and does it matter what you do as long as it clips the rope?
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climbingurlie
Dec 24, 2003, 5:30 AM
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Along with being behind the whip of a slave driver when I learned how to clip, I learned that some directions placing the rope between your fingers like you would a pencil or chopsticks and grabbing the draw with your thumb and ring and pinkie fingers and sliding the rope in works well. A technique for when the draw is facing another way works when you take the rope in the joint of your thumb, grab the draw with your other fingers and slide the rope in. This may sound extremly confusing, but if you can figure it out, it is a really easy way to clip in. Good luck and happy and safe climbing!
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copperhead
Dec 24, 2003, 5:36 AM
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It’s pretty simple really. All you need is a decent cold chisel and a good-sized hammer. Some like to use the Bosch but I don’t own one. Be creative and make sure that you round off the edge of the pocket or bucket – no sense in creating a tendon-cutter. Too much and we will laugh at you; not enough and you won’t be able to send the route. :wink:
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jughead
Dec 24, 2003, 7:03 AM
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OMG dude every single guy at my gym has a crab hangin from somewhere in my car! SO THATS WHY!
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dc
Dec 24, 2003, 9:31 AM
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i also have problems trying to clip sometimes.. like especially on an overhanging section of my school's indoor wall.. it takes all the strength outta me just to clip in, cos the damn draw swings around too much..
however,
recently i saw a pic posted by thomasribiere which shows a technique i now use.. which actually makes clipping a breeze!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=18458
he first clips the quikdraw to the rope, then clips the draw to the bolt.. which doesnt move about, and so clipping using this "old french technique" surely has to be the best way to go!
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miuralover
Dec 24, 2003, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: however, recently i saw a pic posted by thomasribiere which shows a technique i now use.. which actually makes clipping a breeze! http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=18458 he first clips the quikdraw to the rope, then clips the draw to the bolt.. which doesnt move about, and so clipping using this "old french technique" surely has to be the best way to go!
Unless of course the bolt is above you in which case this method increases the difficulty of clipping. It's hard to put the rope in your mouth halfway through the pulling of the rope. Have you ever seen the old quickdraws that were designed for this method, the rope biner didn't even have a gate. You had to rack the draws on your harness with the rope running through them. Quite funny actually.
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tripperjm
Dec 24, 2003, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: It’s pretty simple really. All you need is a decent cold chisel and a good-sized hammer. Some like to use the Bosch but I don’t own one. Be creative and make sure that you round off the edge of the pocket or bucket – no sense in creating a tendon-cutter. Too much and we will laugh at you; not enough and you won’t be able to send the route. :wink:
Clipping not chipping. HAHAHAHA!!!1
And YES please "round off the edge of the pocket or bucket- no sense in creating a tendon-cutter."
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